Woodpecker Slab Flattening Mill

Dan Clermont

Festool Dealer
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Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Messages
1,134
Hi Dan,

Good to know.  I am saving up for one.

I already own a 2200.  Looks like an impressive tool !

Talk to you soon I hope.

Brian
 
Brian Livingstone said:
Hi Dan,

Good to know.  I am saving up for one.

I already own a 2200.  Looks like an impressive tool !

Talk to you soon I hope.

Brian

Hello Brian

You know who to call once you are ready!!!!

Best Regards
Dan Clermont
 
It would be nice if Woodpecker offered up shorter extrusions as an extra/add on.  The extended kit gives you another pair of 6ft extrusions, but that means if you have to cut, say, an 8ft slab, you have to switch the router sled over to the first pair of 6ft extrusions and then build out the rails to 10 ft. long by combining the 6ft. + 4ft.  Or use the 6ft. rails and then move them to get at the last two ft. of the slab.

It would be nice if they offered the option of an extra pair of 2ft. or even 4 ft. extensions.

I assume the profile they are using is proprietary, and not available in the 80/20 catalog?

 
Just cut a 6'er into two 3'ers..gives you 9', should be enough to rout 8'.
 
BTW, Woodpeckers has agreed to sell me a single 4' extrusion for a decent price, which I'm going to slice up in half.  I have some 7 ft. slabs I'm going to be working on for a conference table, and so this will be perfect for a single use flattening table made from 2x framing material and a 4x8 sheet of ply
 
[member=37411]ear3[/member]

Edward remember that you lose 15 inches from the overall frame length because the router sled has to stay on the rails at each end the bit is in the center.

So a 24 inch extension gives you an overall slab length of 81 inches since the 72 inch section can do 57

Ron
 
jussi said:
Anyone buy one?  Reviews?  Would it work well to do dados as well?

Bought one but haven't even got it out of the box yet. I have a winter project I plan to use it on, too much outside work going on at the house now while the WX is good.

I don't believe there is a way built into the system to lock it down in one place but you would need that to run a dado. Plus you would need to square the track to the workpiece, something that is not so critical (if at all) when used for flattening the surface.

If it were possible to add clamps to the carriage so it could be locked to the rail, or there were holes to accept a pin every 32mm like on the Festool LR32 rails then it would be possible to do as you suggest I think.

If you look at the rail profile and the way the carriage rests on it I believe it would be easy to add some position locks using the t-slots on the sides of the rails and adding a plate to the outer side of the carriage and a bolt with a lock knob. This could be done for both the horizontal and vertical rails.
 
[member=8327]jussi[/member] Have used mine several times since getting it over the winter.  It really saved my butt the first time I used it to work out cupping that had developed on a really expensive 2"+ thick and 40" wide table top I had been commissioned to build, so it has already in effect paid for itself.  Otherwise I've used it for traditional slab work.

Action is incredibly smooth, and it takes a lot of the strain and imprecision out of the task of flattening.  I think the main issue most people are curious about is the cost as compared to just rigging up your own router flattening sled.  I don't have an answer for that.  My shop space is such that I can't have a fixed reference surface for flattening (other than smallish stuff that would fit on my workbench), but have to construct things anew whenever this operation is required.  Having the rails and sled ready to go when this is required has been worth it for me (and especially not having to worry about any errors resulting from improper sled construction), and it only takes a short time to make a bed of required size out of ply and framing timber.  I store the sled still fully assembled along with the rail extrusions in my garage/shop loft and rafters.

Couple of observations:

1) the slab still only comes out as flat as the reference surface you use/build.  The aluminum rails will allow you to see if the bed is off, but the rails themselves are not so stiff that they won't flex a little if you accidentally use a surface that is a bit concave or convex, and this slight flexing will turn up in the piece you're milling -- so make sure you build the bed straight and true.

2) The 6ft. and 4ft. rail sizes are a bit limiting.  Cut capacity is approximately 1 foot less than the rail length, so the 6 ft. rail only works on pieces less than 57" long (though you can obviously shift the rails during the cut if you make a longer bed).  If you get the extended package, you can do 12 ft. by joining the 2 6 ft. rails, or 10 ft. by joining the 6 and 4.  The former option means you have to build a much longer bed, or come up with a way of securing the rail in place without being able to screw one of the ends in; the latter option means you have to use the 6ft. rails for the sled, which, depending upon your space, may be unwieldy.  The solution I've come up with was to order a single 4 ft. extrusion from Woodpeckers, which I've cut in half so that I can make 8ft. rails while still using the 4 ft. ones for the sled.  This gives me the ability to work on 7 ft. or less slabs/panels while still using 8ft. ply for the reference surface.

jussi said:
Anyone buy one?  Reviews?  Would it work well to do dados as well?
 
[member=37411]ear3[/member] , thanks for you responses.

Sounds like a torsion box work surface would be advantageous. I don't have room to leave the whole rig setup all the time but I could find space for a torsion box work surface that I place on a couple carefully leveled horses.

I like the idea of cutting a single 4 foot rail in half to get to 8 feet.
 
Bob D. said:
Sounds like a torsion box work surface would be advantageous.
No need. All it takes is a frame with leveling feet or foot to bring it into one plane.
Similar to the video below, but with levelers.

Edit: Can't post a link. Look for Manor Wood on YouTube. A video from August 4, 2019.
 
I get by building it with 2x6s that I have edge jointed straight via tracksaw and tablesaw down to appx 2x5 or 2x4.5.  Two long stiles and then 4 rails that I then skin with 1/2" ply. 

Bob D. said:
[member=37411]ear3[/member] , thanks for you responses.

Sounds like a torsion box work surface would be advantageous. I don't have room to leave the whole rig setup all the time but I could find space for a torsion box work surface that I place on a couple carefully leveled horses.

I like the idea of cutting a single 4 foot rail in half to get to 8 feet.
 
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