WoodPecker SpinRite motor

[Rick Herrick]

Does anyone have experience or comments on this motor?  I just started seeing it pop up on the WP site.  I have no problems with my large Triton but I am interested in the WP VRL and I need to get a better table and thinking a big upgrade is in my future.  I don't understand why the WP site doesn't have a review section.  I know reviews, as a whole, can be misleading, but its nice to read as much as possible on anything I want to buy.

 

[semenza]

There is some info herehttps://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?293823-Spin-Rite-router-table-motor

Seth

 

[Cheese]

I really like that this motor is based on the ER20 collet set. I never understood why manufacturers didn't go this route years ago. They've been pretty much the standard for the last 30 years for small mills, lathes & CNC's.
https://regousa.com/products/er/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsvSd8_2m8wIVpB6tBh045gq9EAMYAiAAEgLPBvD_BwE

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thanks for that link Seth.  It kind of dampens my enthusiasm.  I have had trouble finding the other big motors by Milwaukee and PC so that new addition sounded good.  I really wanted the Milwaukee but hadn't had luck in finding just the motor.  Guess I'll keep using the Triton for the time being.

 

[Mini Me]

I have built several RT's using water cooled CNC spindles controlled by a VFD mainly because the noise level is very low and the speed control is way better than a router if a vector VFD is used. We built our height control using two bearing railshttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393389341657?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item5b97d4fbd9:g:Fh0AAOSwAntggpX~&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSU8qUIAeVPdz29zRlje3Lg3rw6pP99SsK2aM6mnuY70NN%252FCKzpegsI%252FPeWGxPQXU%252B5M9Lhd2tq4FGVg1wRkw%252BgerQBi52qU6%252B%252FEYGNZbs5FYhNH7bHs4nDa%252FghFhEyNCTbtH6Q%252FQBsKDSB393013MROj1EkPaKtSqYmTzaqKawJtk9uLzamU4PkvKhw7FdwlOGFwTZEGIRevlk6bmUm%252FILjwBgYYBXH%252Fwf5rBMRniaiBANWviXQlGeSIxSVuyGO48Fwnx6K2yNHxPlwAtqbKwpn%252Bs6xiUimI2CMCFAP60q6d9X6QUKR9MjDtL6G8%252BWIKUwpUJCNxFF1aTIVWn63UgRiE5uo%252Bt5bAcQWggEjbfitsCpCmkQAHYuNMsm%252FrshkWjoEbp%252BsDl9gUMlQIiicmYVygd%252BYu2cYd7PaV24qYmB1GNSVoBEjCUC6bGDZckwUyQTQVQqBYQOskZ5YIZXsIrJqKTe6YmO1BpH5%252BZDc73yIHW4Aj4qLZcADRghqGOuZ3kcxleB%252Bj58iUHlLqndKmhSGLz%252F2nRRknpdqPDkDbwgE2Eypvx8V%252BkRJDFcrrFNaRLrtE6naKcaMwgWKA1QE%252FHzOrIv%252FFqhcKjUKIza%252B29z6TartSF9GiVM5DXL1GfSU7JHhd3tmL%252BbKvflcNRGOxVIY36M%252F3k0e1bYrUceeZmDOqJkh%252Fv6Ifa2KdD4y%252B6F3hA%252BqZJmvfSI2je3UVMMDrnBZIuDjm%252B2YCLrfsUO0GkMIQK4RAoUtqUC%252BdZ7IyvG%252FycEHNREg8s5EBWIf8GNq%252BfedVDzxmJmpbP6OC7FG0qIzqBI2Xqww%252BTIbG%252FASXC5Svx%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524&frcectupt=trueand a manual lead screw and using a DRO for height measurement. Simple, cheap and has been working for about three years daily in a woodworking school.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Rick, you won't find the P-C, because it's been discontinued. Sadly, I don't think you'll find a North American built 3.25HP router...we've tried. The Spin-Rite is unmistakably Chinese, and I will admit, I was skeptical of the whole program. However, there simply are no choices, and this is a very fine router motor for the price. 106db vs 93db is 75% quieter (I learned how the db scale worked after I made the video...duh), not having pins on the body makes lift installation mindless and the ER-20 collets make a difference that I didn't expect. It impressed me so much I took the PC 7518 out of my personal shop router table and replaced it.

 

[Cheese]

Sadly, I don't think you'll find a North American built 3.25HP router...we've tried...and the ER-20 collets make a difference that I didn't expect. It impressed me so much I took the PC 7518 out of my personal shop router table and replaced it.

Ya, my original Milwaukee 5625  3 1/2HP router was manufactured in the USA and the earlier versions came from Germany, however the new ones all come from China. That being said...the Woodpecker's tie-in with the ER20 collet system is pretty sweet. Any size you need from 1 mm to 9/16".

 

[Rick Herrick]

Ok, so it comes with a 1/4" and 1/2" collet.  How much is the 8mm and can I get it from WP?  I poked around for those ER20 collets and if you want the whole shebang, its gonna cost ya.

 

[Cheese]

Ok, so it comes with a 1/4" and 1/2" collet.  How much is the 8mm and can I get it from WP?  I poked around for those ER20 collets and if you want the whole shebang, its gonna cost ya.

Rick, collets will always cost you...they're a precision accessory and unfortunately they are also considered to be a disposable, that's a double whammy. They're expensive and they wear out.

I guess my point was rather than spending $40-$60 for a proprietary collet from a particular manufacturer, which gives you limited flexibility for cutter choice, buying into the ER collet system means that you can purchase a 1/2" collet for less than $20. And then if you purchase a 6 mm engraving bit it only costs $20 to mount it on the router. Or you find a 3/8" end mill or a 12 mm roughing cutter...just purchase the correct size collet, it really is a relatively inexpensive system to buy into. 

I'm looking at the Shaper system and if I want to mount a 1 mm diameter cutter...I need to find a 1 mm cutter with a 6 mm diameter shank or a 1/4" shank, good luck with that. If Shaper/Festool used ER20 collets I'd simply purchase a 1 mm collet.

I'd rather be milling cutter size limited...than collet size limited.

 

[Rick Herrick]

I understand its probably a good technology but my needs are not as diverse as a lot of folks.  If I buy a ER20 1/2" collet, can I use that on more than one router type?  I recently recently on this forum that you should stick with the collets that are for that router.

 

[mattgam]

I have built several RT's using water cooled CNC spindles controlled by a VFD mainly because the noise level is very low and the speed control is way better than a router if a vector VFD is used. We built our height control using two bearing railshttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/393389341657?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item5b97d4fbd9:g:Fh0AAOSwAntggpX~&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSU8qUIAeVPdz29zRlje3Lg3rw6pP99SsK2aM6mnuY70NN%252FCKzpegsI%252FPeWGxPQXU%252B5M9Lhd2tq4FGVg1wRkw%252BgerQBi52qU6%252B%252FEYGNZbs5FYhNH7bHs4nDa%252FghFhEyNCTbtH6Q%252FQBsKDSB393013MROj1EkPaKtSqYmTzaqKawJtk9uLzamU4PkvKhw7FdwlOGFwTZEGIRevlk6bmUm%252FILjwBgYYBXH%252Fwf5rBMRniaiBANWviXQlGeSIxSVuyGO48Fwnx6K2yNHxPlwAtqbKwpn%252Bs6xiUimI2CMCFAP60q6d9X6QUKR9MjDtL6G8%252BWIKUwpUJCNxFF1aTIVWn63UgRiE5uo%252Bt5bAcQWggEjbfitsCpCmkQAHYuNMsm%252FrshkWjoEbp%252BsDl9gUMlQIiicmYVygd%252BYu2cYd7PaV24qYmB1GNSVoBEjCUC6bGDZckwUyQTQVQqBYQOskZ5YIZXsIrJqKTe6YmO1BpH5%252BZDc73yIHW4Aj4qLZcADRghqGOuZ3kcxleB%252Bj58iUHlLqndKmhSGLz%252F2nRRknpdqPDkDbwgE2Eypvx8V%252BkRJDFcrrFNaRLrtE6naKcaMwgWKA1QE%252FHzOrIv%252FFqhcKjUKIza%252B29z6TartSF9GiVM5DXL1GfSU7JHhd3tmL%252BbKvflcNRGOxVIY36M%252F3k0e1bYrUceeZmDOqJkh%252Fv6Ifa2KdD4y%252B6F3hA%252BqZJmvfSI2je3UVMMDrnBZIuDjm%252B2YCLrfsUO0GkMIQK4RAoUtqUC%252BdZ7IyvG%252FycEHNREg8s5EBWIf8GNq%252BfedVDzxmJmpbP6OC7FG0qIzqBI2Xqww%252BTIbG%252FASXC5Svx%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524&frcectupt=trueand a manual lead screw and using a DRO for height measurement. Simple, cheap and has been working for about three years daily in a woodworking school.

Mini Me, I've been interested in a spindle setup like you describe.  Do you have any pictures or more details on how you got it all working?

 

[Mini Me]

I haven't got any photos but it is simple enough to do. Buy a CNC kit from China and the kit contains Spindle, VFD, a complete set of ER20 collets and a water pump. Here are links to the same parts we used, but keep in mind the VFD kit is 240V and not 110V.

Spindle Kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333581445526?hash=item4dab00e996:g:0uwAAOSwPjNen-Ka
Bearing Rails: Link in previous post.
Lead screw:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/352303270979?hash=item5206e94c43:g:7iUAAOSwTvFapplq
DRO:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284409031073?hash=item42381969a1:g:avMAAOSwo5ZhFvho
Keep in mind when selecting rails and the lead screw that the router only needs to move vertically about 100mm for most operations including the bit changes.

We fixed the rails to the cabinet rear panel and a board big enough to give the bearings a good spread to prevent deflection to the four bearings on the rails. The lead screw is attached to that board and a drive extension goes through the RT top deck to a suitable winder. because it comes with a complete range of collets any size spindle can be used such as a sanding bobbin and the sped wound right back via the VFD. As it is water cooled the speed does not affect the motor temperature as it would on an air cooled spindle. I posted the build thread on the herehttps://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/router-table-using-linear-rails-lift-227354 but you will have to log in to see the photographs. I am surprised at how much the spindle kit prices have risen since I last bought one but I am looking at the price in AUD and not USD. Here is another completely automated RT table, perhaps the best in the world again in the Australian WW forum. It first got built without automation which was later added in the same thread. The builder wrote 6,000 lines of code during the digital conversion.https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/router-table-build-212190

Enjoy!

 

[Bob D.]

Rick, you won't find the P-C, because it's been discontinued. Sadly, I don't think you'll find a North American built 3.25HP router...we've tried. The Spin-Rite is unmistakably Chinese, and I will admit, I was skeptical of the whole program. However, there simply are no choices, and this is a very fine router motor for the price. 106db vs 93db is 75% quieter (I learned how the db scale worked after I made the video...duh), not having pins on the body makes lift installation mindless and the ER-20 collets make a difference that I didn't expect. It impressed me so much I took the PC 7518 out of my personal shop router table and replaced it.

This has me thinking of replacing my PC7518 which I have mounted in my WP router table and lift which I believe is the same as you have Jeff from what I see in your video about the SpinRite.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Bob D.

Exactly correct. It is simply pulling the 7518 out and dropping in the SpinRite. Same pads, same lift, same everything. Only difference is you don't have to dodge the base pins.

Rick Herrick

We're currently working on sourcing popular collet sizes (starting with 8mm) and possibly a set...though as you've said, that is going to be of limited value to the average home shop woodworker.

Until they're available from us...I just Googled up an 8mm er-20 on Amazon for $7.50.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Until they're available from us...I just Googled up an 8mm er-20 on Amazon for $7.50.

Thanks Jeff, I see them out there with wide ranges of prices, all still reasonable numbers.  See a number of players in this space.

 

[mattgam]

I haven't got any photos but it is simple enough to do. Buy a CNC kit from China and the kit contains Spindle, VFD, a complete set of ER20 collets and a water pump. Here are links to the same parts we used, but keep in mind the VFD kit is 240V and not 110V.

Spindle Kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333581445526?hash=item4dab00e996:g:0uwAAOSwPjNen-Ka
Bearing Rails: Link in previous post.
Lead screw:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/352303270979?hash=item5206e94c43:g:7iUAAOSwTvFapplq
DRO:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284409031073?hash=item42381969a1:g:avMAAOSwo5ZhFvho
Keep in mind when selecting rails and the lead screw that the router only needs to move vertically about 100mm for most operations including the bit changes.

We fixed the rails to the cabinet rear panel and a board big enough to give the bearings a good spread to prevent deflection to the four bearings on the rails. The lead screw is attached to that board and a drive extension goes through the RT top deck to a suitable winder. because it comes with a complete range of collets any size spindle can be used such as a sanding bobbin and the sped wound right back via the VFD. As it is water cooled the speed does not affect the motor temperature as it would on an air cooled spindle. I posted the build thread on the herehttps://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/router-table-using-linear-rails-lift-227354 but you will have to log in to see the photographs. I am surprised at how much the spindle kit prices have risen since I last bought one but I am looking at the price in AUD and not USD. Here is another completely automated RT table, perhaps the best in the world again in the Australian WW forum. It first got built without automation which was later added in the same thread. The builder wrote 6,000 lines of code during the digital conversion.https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/router-table-build-212190

Enjoy!

Thats exactly what I needed. I was way overcomplicating and trying to figure out how to mount the spindle bracket in a router table.  your use of a board on linear rails was beautifully simple. I was thinking about some monstrosity of a custom milled aluminum bracket and was assuming you had found an off the shelf solution.  Instead you essentially used a shelf.  Also thanks for the pointer to that forum, looks like be lurking there!

 

[jeffinsgf]

Thanks Jeff, I see them out there with wide ranges of prices, all still reasonable numbers.  See a number of players in this space.

Rick, if you dig a little deeper I think you'll find that there's a grading system. The more expensive ones are made to stricter tolerances. Might be necessary when machining titanium or some such, but less so for wood. Being the pragmatist that I am, I would most likely shoot in the middle of the zone.

 

[Mini Me]

Be careful when using ER collets as assembly and proper sizing are not straight forward. There are some videos on YT and one from HAAS which is particularly good especially on how to size them.

 

[Grev]

I've been looking for a Router for a new table I'll be putting together soon and saw the Spinrite show up a week or so ago.  I was just about to pull the trigger on the Bora, which is currently on sale at Woodcraft for $219.00.  Except for the color, it seems to be identical to the Spinrite, only $30 cheaper?  After reading the comments on this thread, I've decided to go the Spindle route instead.  Will show it here on the FOG when I get it done .. but might be a month or so.

 

[Mini Me]

I haven't got any photos but it is simple enough to do. Buy a CNC kit from China and the kit contains Spindle, VFD, a complete set of ER20 collets and a water pump. Here are links to the same parts we used, but keep in mind the VFD kit is 240V and not 110V.

Spindle Kit: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333581445526?hash=item4dab00e996:g:0uwAAOSwPjNen-Ka
Bearing Rails: Link in previous post.
Lead screw:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/352303270979?hash=item5206e94c43:g:7iUAAOSwTvFapplq
DRO:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284409031073?hash=item42381969a1:g:avMAAOSwo5ZhFvho
Keep in mind when selecting rails and the lead screw that the router only needs to move vertically about 100mm for most operations including the bit changes.

We fixed the rails to the cabinet rear panel and a board big enough to give the bearings a good spread to prevent deflection to the four bearings on the rails. The lead screw is attached to that board and a drive extension goes through the RT top deck to a suitable winder. because it comes with a complete range of collets any size spindle can be used such as a sanding bobbin and the sped wound right back via the VFD. As it is water cooled the speed does not affect the motor temperature as it would on an air cooled spindle. I posted the build thread on the herehttps://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/router-table-using-linear-rails-lift-227354 but you will have to log in to see the photographs. I am surprised at how much the spindle kit prices have risen since I last bought one but I am looking at the price in AUD and not USD. Here is another completely automated RT table, perhaps the best in the world again in the Australian WW forum. It first got built without automation which was later added in the same thread. The builder wrote 6,000 lines of code during the digital conversion.https://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/router-table-build-212190

Enjoy!

Thats exactly what I needed. I was way overcomplicating and trying to figure out how to mount the spindle bracket in a router table.  your use of a board on linear rails was beautifully simple. I was thinking about some monstrosity of a custom milled aluminum bracket and was assuming you had found an off the shelf solution.  Instead you essentially used a shelf.  Also thanks for the pointer to that forum, looks like be lurking there!

Forget everything you know about building router tables if using a spindle not attached to the top. Because the lift is not attached to the top the the top deck can be built fairly light and at the same time removeable and custom tops for different jobs could be made. Not having the lift attached to the top opens up a world of possibilities.