Woodpecker's Drill Press Tables

[Mike Goetzke]

The new DP-Pro series tables look nice but have high cost with all the features. Two features I'm have problems adding value to are pullout table extensions and the drawer that lifts the table high enough to provide clearance for the table elevation crank.

This leads me to possibly purchasing their standard table package #2, 36" DP-Pro fence, two flip-stops, and build a drawer or box to elevate the table. This solution is almost $200 less expensive than the comparable DP-Pro.

Wondering if users of the DP-Pro package can comment on the usefulness of both the top extensions and drawer.

Thanks

 

[hdv]

I had already made my own table with all kinds of bells and whistles when Woodpeckers released their DP-Pro line. So, I can't comment on the drawer and table. However, I did buy the DP-Pro fence to replace the fence I had and love it to bits! The built-in dust collection is great and the fence is wonderful to work with. You won't regret buying it.

Don't buy the DP-Pro Flip Stops though. At least not when you do so because of their supposed fine adjustment capability. The flip stops could have been perfect, but the fine adjustment has so much slop in it when not fully closed that it is completely useless.

I remember [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member] posting here that their engineers were aware of the problem and an improved version was in the works. I don't know the current status of that though.

 

[derekcohen]

I had already made my own table with all kinds of bells and whistles when Woodpeckers released their DP-Pro line. So, I can't comment on the drawer and table. However, I did buy the DP-Pro fence to replace the fence I had and love it to bits! The built-in dust collection is great and the fence is wonderful to work with. You won't regret buying it.

What are the situations where the dust control works and does not work?

I imagine that it will only work when using twist drills closer to the fence? What about forstner bits, and further away?

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[hdv]

Obviously, its efficiency will be less when the distance between the fence and the drill bit increases. As it will be when the workpiece's shape is such that it blocks the airflow. But in most cases where the wood chips aren't very large it will do an adequate job. Smaller forstners or spade bits don't pose a problem at all. Bigger forstners sometimes do, but a little puff will often help the chips along to the suction port. But you need to do that regularly, because when the pile of chips builds up they will clutter the dust port and then won't get in there by themselves.

In the situations where the fence does not offer enough suction I use the DC facility I added to the drill press table (above and below the table) when I built it. There's an older threat on the forum with pictures. If you are interested I could make new ones of my setup.

I do have a CTL26 connected to the fence. I used to have it hooked up to an Oneida Dust Cobra before I found a perfect adapter that fit the fence and the hose end of the Festool hoses. I think the Festool does just fine in this setup.

 

[cpw]

How does the WP dust collection do on a forstner for a 35mm cup hinge?  I'm not sure if those count as small, medium or big?

 

[derekcohen]

Once upon a time I have the WoodRiver fence (with dust collection) ...

This was connected to a CT26e. It was miserable for all but smaller twist drill bits alongside the opening. These did not make much dust to begin with. Forget forstner bits.

I sold it and used the stock Nova fence and added a sub-fence ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Mini Me]

The best dust debris collection I have seen for a DP

Drill Press Debris Collection

 

[chrisrosenb]

This is my home made fence with dust collection. The table is from Incra that I got from Woodpeckers many years ago.

 

[4nthony]

Don't buy the DP-Pro Flip Stops though. At least not when you do so because of their supposed fine adjustment capability. The flip stops could have been perfect, but the fine adjustment has so much slop in it when not fully closed that it is completely useless.

I remember [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member] posting here that their engineers were aware of the problem and an improved version was in the works. I don't know the current status of that though.

The other day, Woodpeckers released another video on the DP-Pro tables, and in the video, Jeff mentions there's a right and wrong way to use the stops.

Note the orientation of the stops. When using them, the material should push into the flag so the flag presses into the body of the stop (direction of the arrows). I checked this on mine and it greatly reduces the amount of play when there's space between the body and flag after micro-adjusting. In the video, discussion about the stops starts at 3:12.

 

[hdv]

I do use them like that. And indeed there is less play in one direction over the other. However, the tip of the arm still is able to move a couple of millimetres even when the fine adjustment is loosened only a little bit. The play is gone when you turn the screw to null the fine adjustment. But then, it doesn't function as a fine adjustment anymore, does it? It might be me using them wrong. Or just my set of stops. But I don't think it is.

 

[Cheese]

I do use them like that. And indeed there is less play in one direction over the other. However, the tip of the arm still is able to move a couple of millimetres even when the fine adjustment is loosened only a little bit. The play is gone when you turn the screw to null the fine adjustment. But then, it doesn't function as a fine adjustment anymore, does it? It might be me using them wrong. Or just my set of stops. But I don't think it is.

Nope you're good... [smile]...I also have the early stops and the only time they don't have any lateral play in them is when they're completely tightened, which as you say, means the fine adjustment is no longer possible.  [sad]

I think I'll email Woodpeckers and enquire about a solution.

 

[rvieceli]

I don’t understand the necessity of this micro adjustment on a DP fence.

I understand the function and the need for a stop in many cases but question the adjustment.

Ron

 

[Mike Goetzke]

This is my home made fence with dust collection. The table is from Incra that I got from Woodpeckers many years ago.

Still kicking myself, about a year ago one of those tables was up for sale on my local CL and I didn't bite.

[member=1903]JD2720[/member] Are those Rockler flit-stops?

Thanks-Mike

 

[hdv]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] : thanks for confirming that  [big grin]

Maybe an e-mail will effect more results. I tried by referring to [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member] earlier in this thread, but he might not have read it yet. I really am interested in that improved solution he said was in the works.

Here's that post by him:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ess-pro-fence-flip-stops/msg637086/#msg637086

[Edit: thread not threat... ]

 

[Mike Goetzke]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] : thanks for confirming that  [big grin]

Maybe an e-mail will effect more results. I tried by referring to [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member] earlier in this thread, but he might not have read it yet. I really am interested in that improved solution he said was in the works.

Here's that post by him:
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ess-pro-fence-flip-stops/msg637086/#msg637086

[Edit: thread not threat... ]

Or make it a fixed stop and reduce the price appropriately.

 

[Cheese]

I don’t understand the necessity of this micro adjustment on a DP fence.

I understand the function and the need for a stop in many cases but question the adjustment.

I'm kind of with you on this one Ron  [smile]  but the real issue is that you cannot use the older flip stop as a flip stop. So if there is a flip stop mounted on the left & a flip stop mounted on the right but because they both use the same RH thread, when trying to raise one up, one side will tighten and the other side will loosen. When flipping them down one side will loosen and the other side will tighten. So you have to do this dance of loosen-flip-tighten just to use the flip stop...it's real clunky.

Another issue I noticed is that any material taller than 3 1/2" will hit both the flip stop tightening knob and the flip stop vernier knob. If the material is clamped to the bottom of the fence it will not be perpendicular to the drill press table surface.

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[attachimg=4]

 

[rvieceli]

Those are some of the reasons I prefer to work with a low DP fence unless I need to stand something on edge and clamp it to the fence. I use a Woodpeck DP3 fence for that.

Normally I have a fence I made from a strip of 1/2 inch Mic6 that I had both edges machined flat and parallel. Stuck a piece of Incra T track on the top and use that to slide a square stop on that tightens up in the track.

Incidentally if you are using a DP3 for a fence a 1-2-3 block makes an excellent stop when clamped to the fence.

Ron

 

[4nthony]

Quick video of my flip stops that I shot today. Are you guys getting more or less deflection? The further out I take the micro-adjust, the more I get, but if I keep micro-adjust within 3/16" or so from the body, deflection is negligible when the flag is pressed into the body (though, much more when pressing away from the body).

I received my kit last week so it's recent, but I never paid much attention to the design of old or new so I don't know which mine are.

I'm kind of with you on this one Ron  [smile]  but the real issue is that you cannot use the older flip stop as a flip stop. So if there is a flip stop mounted on the left & a flip stop mounted on the right but because they both use the same RH thread, when trying to raise one up, one side will tighten and the other side will loosen. When flipping them down one side will loosen and the other side will tighten. So you have to do this dance of loosen-flip-tighten just to use the flip stop...it's real clunky.

I notice this as well. Same thing with the Exact 90 Flip Stop. You can raise/lower repeatedly and it will micro adjust its way away from where you originally set it.

 

[Mini Me]

I had the same deflection problem on a Kreg fence and Kreg supplied two extra sliding blocks so the flip blade was supported both sides. It is a flawed design to have only one side support unless some sort of bearing is used for the blade (not a bush) and the bearing body can be locked up solidly between the nut and the body. I am of the simplistic view that a straight bit of anything for a fence clamped to the drill press table gets the job done but then my DP is used for general machining work as well as wood work.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

Wow - was almost ready to put about $600 out for one of these. Seems WP missed some very basic flaws on this one.

Maybe I just build one myself like I did 20+ years ago. That one had a wood block with a T-bolt that fastened to a t-track on the face of the fence.

The idea of the flip stops to me is you can use them on the right or left. Many times you want both on one side of the bit. Now WP wants you to take the stop apart and reassemble it every time you switch it over?