I was sharing some info with [member=4518]Mike Goetze[/member] yesterday over PM and wanted to add a few of the photos I shared with him.
Regarding the overhanging flip stop flags, I have flags that were milled differently from one another. When one is flipped up and resting on the fence, it sticks out a bit:
When it's snugged up and vertical, it is OK:
You can see the way my flags were milled. The flag that overhangs is on the right (the point is the part that overhangs - not a big deal and I can round it off on the belt sander):
The body knobs do not overhang the fence and I can slide boards past the micro-adjust wheels without catching an edge:
Mike mentioned he spoke to someone at WP and was told there have been a couple revisions of the flip stops. One of the revisions was supposed to prevent the micro adjust wheels from turning. With my flip-stops, if the flag is gently snugged to the body, the wheel will spin the first two times the flag is raised/lowered. In the video, notice the flags are initially set to 355mm and 285mm. After raising/lowering, they end up about a .5mm off from those distances.
However, now that I know this, I think the best option is to simply not snug the flags up to the body. Keep it a touch loose and you'll be able to raise/lower the flags without altering the micro-adjust yet they'll still be close enough to the body to prevent any real deflection from happening. Significant deflection (for my stops) starts to happen when the flag is extended more than 4-5mm away from the body. If you need that much adjustment, it might be better to move the stop.
I wonder if a better flip stop would combine the micro-adjust of the WP with the two flag version like the INCRA? Or, if something like the
Katz-Moses stop block could incorporate a hinge?
Maybe the TSO idea would work best. They've decoupled the micro-adjust from the pivot point.
Anyway, enough of my rambling for now
