Woodpeckers MDF vs. phenolic router tables

[prjones]

Hey guys,

It's time for another shop infrastructure weekend! I've narrowed my router table package purchase down to Woodpeckers. Do any of you own/have opinions (ha!) on thier MDF vs. phenolic tabletops? Or on those two materials generally? I've used MDF before obviously for years in various ways and projects, but never phenolic. Which do you like better for this application?

One thing I noticed: Woodpeckers mills and installs aluminum track in their MDF tops, whereas in the phenolic, they just mill the profle into the top itself with no aluminum track at all. That makes me nervous for longterm wear and whatnot.

Other thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Paul Jones,
Your Nation's Capital and Hub of Chaos & Brokeness (aka DC area  [laughing])

 

[Packard]

If the cost is in your budget, phenolic. 

In almost every aspect, phenolic outperforms MDF.  It is stronger, more dimensionally stable, does not absorb moisture, can be machined to tolerances similar to aluminum or brass, can have machine threads cut directly into the stock, and is an excellent insulator of electricity.  It also has a slick, smooth surface that resists wear.  It is very hard and resists dings and divots.

Where I used to work they used it for stamping tooling fixtures and (especially) for resistance welding fixtures, some of which were expected to last for 50,000 + cycles.

In the downside, it is heavy and can dull blades (but makes clean cuts) and drill bits.  I would use carbide cutting tools. 

For more specific information:

My google search:
https://www.google.com/search?q=properties of phenolic board&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m
https://www.glemco.com/capabilities/material-expertise/phenolic/

And these comparisons:
https://www.google.com/search?q=mdf board vs phenolic board&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

If you plan on using it in a damp or humid environment, then get the phenolic.  The MDF will absorb moisture. MDF’s primary advantage is low cost.

 

[Packard]

I just went to the Woodpeckers’ site and I see you left out one piece of information.  The MDF top has a laminate top. 

In most cases a “laminate top” means Formica or equivalent.  And Formica is basically phenolic resin over printed paper to give the color or image.  So assuming they adhere the laminate correctly the top surface will wear about how the Phenolic will. 

The aluminum tracks are needed because MDF absorbs moisture and the slots would bind on the miter gage as the material expands due to the moisture absorbtion. 

I would also note that there are many grades of Phenolic, with paper, cloth or other fabric used to reinforce the phenolic.  Happily for the application shown on Woodpeckers, the cheapest grade is going to function as well as any of the more expensive grades, so no compromises there.

 

[luvmytoolz]

If you can't get a cast iron table the phenolic one is definitely the next best choice over laminated MDF!

 

[woodferret]

Their MDF is 1-3/8 thick.  I wouldn't lose sleep over it's stability in comparison to the 3/4" phenolic.  The only diff is that it's gonna weigh a stuff tonne.

Note their levelling adjusters are different.  The phenolic is mostly in the corners, Kreg style.  The MDF is spread out more.

Personally, I'd go with the micro-dot.  Less weird suction.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Obviously, I've used both extensively.  [big grin]

I have no problem with the MDF tables, and personally prefer the white finish.

That said, the phenolic tables are tougher and less susceptible to environmental problems.

We used to embed track in our phenolic tables, too, but switched to direct-milled tracks this year. The more material you remove, the more likely the phenolic is to warp. We take about 75% less material out with the direct milled tracks and they hold up to repeated clamping in the "hot zone" as well as aluminum.

For a little perspective...I could have any Woodpeckers router table we make for my home shop. I have a 24" x 32" phenolic.

 

[Cheese]

FWIW...I've had the white micro-dot drill press table since Woodpeckers first introduced it...maybe 6-7 years ago? ...and it's held up really well.
I do a lot of metal fabrication so a 40# Heinrich metal working vise is slid along the micro-dot surface on a regular basis. It leaves black marks from the steel vise but a quick swipe of IPA on a paper towel removes the black marks. I'm really happy with the micro-dot material.

I'd suspect that a micro-dot surface on a router table might yield a slicker sliding surface and be easier to use than the phenolic option. Also, any saw dust created would fall between the micro-dots and would not accumulate under the piece of wood that's being routed.

 

[Packard]

For the record, both phenolic sheet and high pressure laminates (Formica, etc.) are made from (typically) cellulose material (paper or fabric) with a thermosetting resin.

Thermosetting resin, unlike most plastics we are familiar with, cannot be melted after it is molded. 

The big hit for both phenolic sheet and high pressure laminates is that they do not have a great resistance to heat (though phenolic is better) and neither is highly resistant to chemicals.  For chemical resistance, epoxy sheet is vastly better but does not fare well when exposed to UV. 

Below is a link to a list of the chemicals that do/do not affect phenolic (and usually) high pressure laminates. Most of the destructive chemicals I do not see in my workshop.  Your situation may be different.
http://k-mac-plastics.net/data/chemical/phenolic-chemical-.htm

I became aware of the chemical resistance of epoxy at work.  We had a job that called for epoxy powder coating.  We specified to the powder coater that it had to be epoxy.  But his standard powder coating was polyester. Which is what he used on the parts.  Our customer rejected the parts.

Polyester powder coating does not fade badly when exposed to UV, is more flexible and does not usually fracture, but is softer.

Polyester powder coating does poorly in chemical resistance and the component was to be exposed to a wide variety of chemicals.

It turned out to be an expensive error and as I personally called the president of the powder coating company and emphasized that it had to be epoxy, the cost strip and re-coat was borne by the coating company. 

Polyester powder coating is removed by heating the parts to the melting point of the polyester and then chemically cleaning the parts prior to re-coating.  You cannot top coat powder coating with another finish.

 

[JasonS]

Jeff, this might be a longshot question, but can you tell us what type of phenolic Woodpeckers uses?

Obviously, I've used both extensively.  [big grin]

I have no problem with the MDF tables, and personally prefer the white finish.

That said, the phenolic tables are tougher and less susceptible to environmental problems.

We used to embed track in our phenolic tables, too, but switched to direct-milled tracks this year. The more material you remove, the more likely the phenolic is to warp. We take about 75% less material out with the direct milled tracks and they hold up to repeated clamping in the "hot zone" as well as aluminum.

For a little perspective...I could have any Woodpeckers router table we make for my home shop. I have a 24" x 32" phenolic.