Woodpeckers multi function router base

I watched their 'Live' video when it came out.  It looked pretty useful to me.  I hope more discussion starts on this as I would live to see some other opinions.  I am about to buy one of their router table sets so my brain couldn't focus on this one. [big grin]
 
In the past routers were not a major tool in my workshop, but I can see a need for some future projects.  I watched the Woodpeckers video about this router accessory and the first question that came to mind is does this do something that using the router on a rail does not do, aside from making curves and circles?
 
I wished it was designed to clamp the rods at the fine adjust head. This way you could use rod stock in any length. I once had to cut a radius and edge rout a 3-1/2' radius and did this with a Bosch router circle jig and long rods.
 
What I like about the Woodpeckers tool is that it looks like you can do a number of functions of other tools with this one.  I am totally ordering one. 
 
So, it's an edge guide with circle cutting function and micro adjustment. My $40 one from Bosch does all that plus has side dust collection port. What am I missing?
 
Big Woodpecker's fan here...this item not so much. I really wouldn't want to route 24" from the edge using an edge guide on a pair of 8 mm rods. Trying to move the router and the edge guide at the same time without introducing routed in stair-steps would be difficult. Easier just to use a router on a Festool rail.

Also, noticed the micro-adjust is not marked so you're dialing it in relative to pencil marks rather than a finite distance.

If I need a .280" wide dado I'll use a .250" bit, cut the dado, measure the actual dado and then dial in the additional width needed plus add maybe .002-.003" extra for a nice firm hand fit.

The Micro Fence line of products is a lot nicer way to go.
https://microfence.com/products/
 
Mike Goetzke said:
I wished it was designed to clamp the rods at the fine adjust head. This way you could use rod stock in any length. I once had to cut a radius and edge rout a 3-1/2' radius and did this with a Bosch router circle jig and long rods.

Mike, Watch today's Deep Dive at 1pm. I use the extension rods for a long arc. The extension rods thread into each other, so you can make them as long as you need. a 3-1/2' radius would be no problem at all.
 
CRB7 doesn’t look as well built and I like the center fine adj. on the WP. Also agree the Micro Fence product has served me very well thru the years and still working great
 
Cheese said:
Also, noticed the micro-adjust is not marked so you're dialing it in relative to pencil marks rather than a finite distance.

I don't see that as an issue at all. Relative measurements in woodworking can be more accurate and produce a better fit. Festool's micro-adjust for the guide rail adapter isn't marked either. Same goes for their edge guide. I've always marked the piece first, then routed to the pencil line.

Cheese said:
The Micro Fence line of products is a lot nicer way to go.

Why? I'm genuinely curious. I've heard a lot of good things about Micro Fence, but always thought they are targeting small routers and Dremel tools. Their pricing is also way above Woodpeckers and I couldn't find any good explanation as to why. It also seems that Micro Fence is a stagnating company with some of their products being more than 20 years old. When was their latest product released, 10 years ago?
 
serge0n said:
Cheese said:
Also, noticed the micro-adjust is not marked so you're dialing it in relative to pencil marks rather than a finite distance.

I don't see that as an issue at all. Relative measurements in woodworking can be more accurate and produce a better fit. Festool's micro-adjust for the guide rail adapter isn't marked either. Same goes for their edge guide. I've always marked the piece first, then routed to the pencil line.

Cheese said:
The Micro Fence line of products is a lot nicer way to go.

Why? I'm genuinely curious. I've heard a lot of good things about Micro Fence, but always thought they are targeting small routers and Dremel tools. Their pricing is also way above Woodpeckers and I couldn't find any good explanation as to why. It also seems that Micro Fence is a stagnating company with some of their products being more than 20 years old. When was their latest product released, 10 years ago?

Micro Fence are not just for small routers. I have used my Micro Fence on a Festool 2200 router. Micro Fence makes mounting bars for just about every router made.
 
serge0n said:
Cheese said:
Also, noticed the micro-adjust is not marked so you're dialing it in relative to pencil marks rather than a finite distance.

I don't see that as an issue at all. Relative measurements in woodworking can be more accurate and produce a better fit. Festool's micro-adjust for the guide rail adapter isn't marked either. Same goes for their edge guide. I've always marked the piece first, then routed to the pencil line.

Cheese said:
The Micro Fence line of products is a lot nicer way to go.

Why? I'm genuinely curious. I've heard a lot of good things about Micro Fence, but always thought they are targeting small routers and Dremel tools. Their pricing is also way above Woodpeckers and I couldn't find any good explanation as to why. It also seems that Micro Fence is a stagnating company with some of their products being more than 20 years old. When was their latest product released, 10 years ago?

Similar thoughts. The run-out on routers is a good reason to use a line you drew. You can get better collets however to eliminate it then you'd be safe to use something marked.

Price of the woodpecker plus the larger base is appealing to me, compared to Micro. Micro seems compatible with larger routers except the plunge bases are not.
 
serge0n said:
I don't see that as an issue at all. Relative measurements in woodworking can be more accurate and produce a better fit. Festool's micro-adjust for the guide rail adapter isn't marked either. Same goes for their edge guide. I've always marked the piece first, then routed to the pencil line.

Here's my micro-adjust...adjustable in .001" increments. Their metric version is adjustable in 1/10 mm increments.

[attachimg=1]

Say I need to dado a cabinet to take 6 shelves. I align the Festool rail properly on the cabinet side, zero the micro-adjust, cut the dado, measure the dado, dial in the extra I need on the micro-adjust, finish the dado.

For the next shelf dado, I re-zero the micro-adjust, cut the dado, dial in the extra, finish the dado. Wash & repeat 4 more times.

Without some type of precision marking, how do you precisely & repetitively re-zero the router bit and dial in the extra amount? It just takes way too much time by trial & error compared to just re-zero, and dial in the extra, re-zero, dial in the extra.

 

Attachments

  • 10119.JPG
    10119.JPG
    639.4 KB · Views: 2,171
Cheese said:
serge0n said:
I don't see that as an issue at all. Relative measurements in woodworking can be more accurate and produce a better fit. Festool's micro-adjust for the guide rail adapter isn't marked either. Same goes for their edge guide. I've always marked the piece first, then routed to the pencil line.

Here's my micro-adjust...adjustable in .001" increments. Their metric version is adjustable in 1/10 mm increments.

[attachimg=1]

Say I need to dado a cabinet to take 6 shelves. I align the Festool rail properly on the cabinet side, zero the micro-adjust, cut the dado, measure the dado, dial in the extra I need on the micro-adjust, finish the dado.

For the next shelf dado, I re-zero the micro-adjust, cut the dado, dial in the extra, finish the dado. Wash & repeat 4 more times.

Without some type of precision marking, how do you precisely & repetitively re-zero the router bit and dial in the extra amount? It just takes way too much time by trial & error compared to just re-zero, and dial in the extra, re-zero, dial in the extra.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Have you tried out a kerf maker jig? I've only played around with it but you can set it up using the guide stop for your router on the guide rail and it just 'works.' No measuring, zeroing, or any of that.
 
DynaGlide said:
It took me a minute to find it:



As my eyes age pencil marks become less useful and this tool takes care of some of need to use pencil marks.  Useful, thanks for that post, I just ordered one.
 
For  a kerf maker  just  use  the material  you are  dadoing (grooving)  against  the saw  stop  block  to  cut a kerf maker. Make  one  cut, remove  the piece  then make  the second  cut.

The piece  you  are  left  with  is  the  width  of  the material less  the saw  blade  kerf  width.
Its  just  a spacer  block.
Which  costs  virtually  nothing  except  your  time  to make  it.
Which  is  for  me  about  60  seconds.
 
A  scrap  piece  of  wood  makes  the kerf maker.
 
Back
Top