Just curious - have people who ordered from dealers (and not Woodpeckers directly) received their PGS yet? I'm still waiting on mine and was wondering if it was an issue with one dealer or if all dealers get their Woodpeckers products last. Free shipping is nice, but I'd defintiely like to have the tool in hand. At this rate, all the issues are gonna be resolved by the time I get mine!!! [big grin]
Woodpecker's Parallel Guide System One Time Tool
- Thread starter MavDog
- Start date
blaszcsj
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2015
- Messages
- 580
RobNJ said:
Nope, still waiting, I ordered from ToolNut. I recieved an email a few weeks back stating they would be shipping out this week, but that was prior to the PGSgate 2015 started. I am very excited to get this because I have been in need of a parallel guide set up for the track saw for a while now.
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 11,163
An update for customer who purchased from The Tool Nut...
We received the PGS units from Woodpeckers today. We had asked that Woodpeckers only ship us product that addresses any reported issues here on the FOG. Hence the slight delay. We will begin shipping these out today. You should receive tracking info in the next day or so.
Thanks for all who ordered from us and for your patience.
Shane
We received the PGS units from Woodpeckers today. We had asked that Woodpeckers only ship us product that addresses any reported issues here on the FOG. Hence the slight delay. We will begin shipping these out today. You should receive tracking info in the next day or so.
Thanks for all who ordered from us and for your patience.
Shane
Slartibartfass
Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1,086
I have sent an email to WP inquiring about shipping for the new connectors as I had ordered from them directly....
Slartibartfass
Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1,086
Wow that was quick for an answer from WP. They will be start shipping out later this week....
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 11,163
blaszcsj said:
[big grin] [thumbs up]
Birdhunter
Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2012
- Messages
- 4,145
If anyone has received the new pieces, do they work?
Daver
Member
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2013
- Messages
- 190
Birdhunter said:
I received mine on thursday from Tool Nut. Opened up the sys and did a quick inspection. Everything looks good including the supplemental part for the connection.
Looking forward to putting them to work next week but in the meantime, in keeping with my previous posts in this thread...
[popcorn]
;D
Dave
Cheese
Member
Ya, the fix works quite well if you follow the instructions.
The new silver locating bars are loosely screwed to the red bar arms and then that assembly is placed in the Festool track. Slide the assembly to where you want it and tighten the set screws in the new locating bars, THEN tighten the Philips screws in the red bar arms.
Because the Philips screws were already starting to round out a little bit with all of the tightening and loosening, I changed all of the Philips screws to the stainless hex variety. 1/4-20 x 1/2" FH for the red bar arms and 1/4-20 x 3/8" FH for the new silver locating bars.
Because I now need 2 different sized hex wrenches (5/32" and 1/8" hex) to tighten the stainless flat head screws and the Woodpeckers stainless custom set screws, I'm making a wrench that will fit both sizes. I'll post pictures when it's completed.
The new silver locating bars are loosely screwed to the red bar arms and then that assembly is placed in the Festool track. Slide the assembly to where you want it and tighten the set screws in the new locating bars, THEN tighten the Philips screws in the red bar arms.
Because the Philips screws were already starting to round out a little bit with all of the tightening and loosening, I changed all of the Philips screws to the stainless hex variety. 1/4-20 x 1/2" FH for the red bar arms and 1/4-20 x 3/8" FH for the new silver locating bars.
Because I now need 2 different sized hex wrenches (5/32" and 1/8" hex) to tighten the stainless flat head screws and the Woodpeckers stainless custom set screws, I'm making a wrench that will fit both sizes. I'll post pictures when it's completed.
Slartibartfass
Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1,086
There are many sellers on eBay.
For others a #3 Phillips must be used. A #2 will quickly cause the screws to be destroyed. They also do not need to be very tight.Cheese said:
I went with a different length screw using a 9/16", and wished I would have gone 5/8". Since I don't plan on removing them, I want the extra threads so when they are cut loose there is less risk of them unscrewing and getting lost. Bought a 25 pack of stainless screws from Amazon but they are currently sold out. The stainless ones have heads that are slightly larger, which causes them to sit a little bit proud at the connection to the rail, although it isn't an issue with me. They also sit a little proud on my homemade stops, but I can't drill them deeper or I will blow thru the sides, due to the narrow stock. For the 4 needed shorter ones I just cut 6 screws off to a length slightly longer than 3/8", with 2 being spares. One of them also bottomed in the rail insert before becoming tight, so a thread chaser fixed that right up. The quality of the screws I got is questionable. They are attracted to a magnet...hmmmCheese said:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X2V71QU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Please do post pics as I am curious to see what you come up with. I figured a couple more holes drilled into foam straight down to hold the allen keys. Although I am also thinking a 5/32" allen bit in my little homemade t-handle jobber might be nicer.Cheese said:
I dialed all my homemade setup stops in last night and kept taking the entire assembly apart, moving everything around, switching parts, and then checking calibration, but not recalibrating past the initial setup. Sometimes there was a very slight variance, but it is within the tolerances I had hoped for, and believe much of the difference was more than likely due to saw cut of the plastic splinter guard on the rail. That project I am going to consider a success!
This photo shows the difference in the screw length. The screw on the left is the phillips head that shipped with the PGS. It does not pass all the way thru the t-nut. The right hand screw is the new allen head. As you can see there is plenty of clearance at 9/16".
Attachments
Cheese
Member
[member=10616]Claimdude[/member]
I purchased them at Menards, they're sold in individual packages, 1 per package. I purchased 8 each 1/4-20 x 1/2" screws.
The screws that mount the Woodpeckers main body bracket to the Woodpeckers PGS arms (track) use the stock 1/2" long screws while the screws that mount the Woodpeckers main body bracket to the Festool rail need to be shortened by about 1/16" or otherwise they contact the bottom of the Festool rail and could damage it.
It's also interesting that the 1/4-20 x 3/8" screws Woodpeckers use to mount the body bracket to the Festool rail, have undercut heads.
Originally I was going to purchase 1" long screws, put them in a lathe and undercut the heads, turn them around and then cut them down to 3/8" in length. But once I got the calipers out and started to measure things, I realized an undercut head wasn't necessary because the part of the main body bracket that attaches to the Festool rail is .160" thick and the standard head thickness of a 1/4" flat head screw is .140"-.150" thick. So I just shortened the 1/2" screws by 1/16" and I was good to go.
I purchased them at Menards, they're sold in individual packages, 1 per package. I purchased 8 each 1/4-20 x 1/2" screws.
The screws that mount the Woodpeckers main body bracket to the Woodpeckers PGS arms (track) use the stock 1/2" long screws while the screws that mount the Woodpeckers main body bracket to the Festool rail need to be shortened by about 1/16" or otherwise they contact the bottom of the Festool rail and could damage it.
It's also interesting that the 1/4-20 x 3/8" screws Woodpeckers use to mount the body bracket to the Festool rail, have undercut heads.
Originally I was going to purchase 1" long screws, put them in a lathe and undercut the heads, turn them around and then cut them down to 3/8" in length. But once I got the calipers out and started to measure things, I realized an undercut head wasn't necessary because the part of the main body bracket that attaches to the Festool rail is .160" thick and the standard head thickness of a 1/4" flat head screw is .140"-.150" thick. So I just shortened the 1/2" screws by 1/16" and I was good to go.
Cheese
Member
Peter_C said:
The screws may be made made from a 400 series stainless which will be magnetic.
Or they may be made from a 300 series stainless that when cold worked can become slightly magnetic.
KescoNY
Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2015
- Messages
- 133
I have been using them for a few weeks now and have became very dependent on them. I did rearrange the systainer to fit the new brackets, allen wrenches, and a woodpecker ruler with an end stop.
Only issue i have with them is what i have pictured. I think the screws can either be a bit longer or a nut can be designed a little taller to engage the threads easier. Since i disassambe them and put them away every day after use, the initial setup gets a little annoying. Has anyone tried something different in this area?
I m actually surprised how well they hold their calibration once tuned in properly
Only issue i have with them is what i have pictured. I think the screws can either be a bit longer or a nut can be designed a little taller to engage the threads easier. Since i disassambe them and put them away every day after use, the initial setup gets a little annoying. Has anyone tried something different in this area?
I m actually surprised how well they hold their calibration once tuned in properly
Attachments
Similar threads
