Cheese said:
Because the Philips screws were already starting to round out a little bit with all of the tightening and loosening,
For others a #3 Phillips must be used. A #2 will quickly cause the screws to be destroyed. They also do not need to be very tight.
Cheese said:
I changed all of the Philips screws to the stainless hex variety. 1/4-20 x 1/2" FH for the red bar arms and 1/4-20 x 3/8" FH for the new silver locating bars.
I went with a different length screw using a 9/16", and wished I would have gone 5/8". Since I don't plan on removing them, I want the extra threads so when they are cut loose there is less risk of them unscrewing and getting lost. Bought a 25 pack of stainless screws from Amazon but they are currently sold out. The stainless ones have heads that are slightly larger, which causes them to sit a little bit proud at the connection to the rail, although it isn't an issue with me. They also sit a little proud on my homemade stops, but I can't drill them deeper or I will blow thru the sides, due to the narrow stock. For the 4 needed shorter ones I just cut 6 screws off to a length slightly longer than 3/8", with 2 being spares. One of them also bottomed in the rail insert before becoming tight, so a thread chaser fixed that right up. The quality of the screws I got is questionable. They are attracted to a magnet...hmmm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X2V71QU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Cheese said:
Because I now need 2 different sized hex wrenches (5/32" and 1/8" hex) to tighten the stainless flat head screws and the Woodpeckers stainless custom set screws, I'm making a wrench that will fit both sizes. I'll post pictures when it's completed.
Please do post pics as I am curious to see what you come up with. I figured a couple more holes drilled into foam straight down to hold the allen keys. Although I am also thinking a 5/32" allen bit in my little homemade t-handle jobber might be nicer.
I dialed all my homemade setup stops in last night and kept taking the entire assembly apart, moving everything around, switching parts, and then checking calibration, but not recalibrating past the initial setup. Sometimes there was a very slight variance, but it is within the tolerances I had hoped for, and believe much of the difference was more than likely due to saw cut of the plastic splinter guard on the rail. That project I am going to consider a success!
This photo shows the difference in the screw length. The screw on the left is the phillips head that shipped with the PGS. It does not pass all the way thru the t-nut. The right hand screw is the new allen head. As you can see there is plenty of clearance at 9/16".