Woodworking newbie attempting fence - needs help

[chappardababbar]

I'm going to try to build a fence that looks like this next weekend:
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/327073991671443335/

Building it in iroko. I have the sketchup in case anyone is interested. The posts are 2x2, the, cross planks are 4x2 and 8x2

Here is how I am planning on building it please do let me know your comments:

- Timber going to be planed and squared by a local joiner and delivered in 4.7m lengths
- Going to lay out the timber planks on the floor in the finished arrangement
- Will mark up exactly where I want the staggered cuts to be and make a single cut in each plank at the start of the gap with the HKC55 and cross cut rail. (by the way, I need to cross cut 8 inches...assuming the 250mm guide rail will be fine). Will put planks on a saw horse with stablisiing planks on it, to do this
- Will lay down and line up the outer two posts against the timber and mark up for DF500 dominos. Going to use the 10mm ones. 4x dominos for each join
- Make the holes with the domino, in the posts as well as the planks
- Bolt a post to each brick pier, these will not go into the ground
- Dig holes 50cm deep for the remaining three posts
- Use a string to give me the alignment between the outside posts, and will pour concrete into the holes and line up the posts to the string as well as use a spirit level to ensure each post is dead level

At this point, the posts are up, I've cut the planks into the staggered pattern and so I have two parts to each plank, and I have the domino holes cut into the outer posts. Now...

I will line up the shorter length of plank and insert the domino into the outer post, and use it to mark up the second post. Then, I will remove the plank and make the domino holes in the other side of the plank as well as the post (which I will do in situ)

Also, once I line up the cross plank to the second post (which is in the ground, and therefore not at the same height as the reference posts which are against the brick wall) I will cut the three middle posts to size using the HKC55, in situ.

Basically going to repeat this process, until it's done. Checking with a spirit level to ensure it's level as i go along, and using a 1/2 inch spacer to ensure even spacing between the cross planks

Will glue it all up with gorilla glue, sand down, stain.

Any comments or improvements I can make? Will the 4x dominos at each join be strong enough? Will the glue hold? Will i have difficultly making domino holes and lining them up in situ?

All thoughts appreciated

Yasir

 

[Holmz]

If the posts are not level and the wood grow and shrinks with humidity & temperature , then how will it all conform/twist/bend to the will of the gods?

There is a 'Henry Ford' beauty in assembly-lining it all, but I would probably want to one panel and work across it... (Just in case.)

 

[chappardababbar]

If the posts are not level and the wood grow and shrinks with humidity & temperature , then how will it all conform/twist/bend to the will of the gods?

There is a 'Henry Ford' beauty in assembly-lining it all, but I would probably want to one panel and work across it... (Just in case.)

Thank you for the advice....can I ask you to elaborate on your point about working across one panel please?

 

[Gregor]

Some thoughts:

With this you'll connect two pieces of wood with the fibers in different directions. Wood expands/contracts when drying/soaking with different rates along the different axis, lowest rate is along the fibers (which you'll have in the posts) with highest rate perpenticular to the fiber (which you'll have with the planks), so when attaching both fixed together ofer the width of the plank and the moisture level of the wood changes the planks can get cracks (drying) or wobbling (getting wet) or break the connections. The force wood can develop when changing moisture levels are impressive, some more information here:http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/03/moisture-content-wood-movement/

You could test if you get away with it on your intended construction by creating a single joint out of cutoffs, glueing it and letting it cure, then first soak it in warm water for half a day and afterwards drying it in a convection oven @ 60-80°C for another half (opening it every now and then to let the moisture escape). Surely this will be a simulation of a worst case scenario, but should the joint survive this you know that you'll be golden and should it fail you'll have an exaggerated demonstration of the issues you'll face when doing such wood connections.

As I had to jump through several hoops (since someone poured some foundations slightly out of position [mad]) lately my advice is: dig the holes, fix the posts in place with some temporary scaffolding (clamp them in place with laths), assemble your construction and when all is done, level and in place then pour the concrete to freeze the posts in their then-good position eternally. Way easier than having to cater to small (or large) imperfections in alignment doing it the other way around and your construction will be light enough to easily support it till the concrete has cured.

Something to keep in mind regarding foundations and winter:

And always use SIPO Dominos for outside use, the normal ones will not last that long.

 

[chappardababbar]

Thank you!

Very useful foundations video. And for the info on SIPO dominos - will have to look this up.

I will take your suggestion regarding the posts, makes a lot of sense. However, I don't know how I'm going to create a scaffolding that is strong and stable enough to get everything line. Maybe if I use quick grips and 2x4s on the sides of the post, leaning back to the ground, then attach to another 2x4 which ties them together at ground level to provide some stability. It's a lot of extra work but I think it'll save me a lot of pain in getting everything lined up.

Let's see...

Thanks again

 

[Gregor]

You can clamp the pole between two boards (or whatever pieces of wood) by screwing them to two spacers (slightly thinner than the pole) located to the sides of the pole, rest the boards on the sides on board cutoffs put flat on the ground (to spread the load). This way you can make a pole float inside a foundation hole without the need to damage it and it costs near nothing, just some screws.

[attachimg=1]

 

[capww8]

I would suggest that "straight" is more important than "level"... unless you have an 8' level, a mason line is probably more valuable to you.

 

[chappardababbar]

very grateful for you taking the time to explain this. Will let you know how it goes.

Wish me luck!

 

[Holmz]

If the posts are not level and the wood grow and shrinks with humidity & temperature , then how will it all conform/twist/bend to the will of the gods?

There is a 'Henry Ford' beauty in assembly-lining it all, but I would probably want to one panel and work across it... (Just in case.)

Thank you for the advice....can I ask you to elaborate on your point about working across one panel please?

If you screw up one panel you are only 1 panel hosed.
If you do every similar peice first and then assemble, if there is a problem, then you have the problem everywhere.

[member=53905]Gregor[/member] pretty much addressed the expansion.

 

[chappardababbar]

Got it, thank you

 

[chappardababbar]

Thanks for the help, I'm pretty happy with how it's going so far, but much left to do.

- Dug holes
- Fixed the outside posts, used zobo to recess the bolts
- Dropped posts into holes, measured the required height and cut with kapex
- Clamped a rail across the front of the posts with some quick grips, the clamped the posts to the rail to ensure the posts are perfectly aligned
- Poured in the concrete
- Cut rails to length with HKC55 - this thing is amazing
- Fixed the rails to the posts with screws. CXS used for guide holes, T18 for the heavy lifing
- I'm one rail short so I'll need to have another one made up.

Next steps, would appreciate any comments/thoughts
- Going to remove the rails one at a time and cut the staggered pattern in the original post above, then refix
- Will plug the holes with plugs made from the same timber, then sand down. What sandpaper should I use. I have a couple of festool sanders, the RO90 and another one I can't recall right now.
- The wood is Iroko. How should I protect it? Don't want a stain, prefer to wax. What is the correct method to apply wax. Is there some prep work I should do beforehand?

 

[Michael Kellough]

That is a beautiful fence!

 

[Gregor]

Looks professional  [smile]

 

[RickyL]

Very nice.

Did you get it finished?