Work Flow and Productivity

[SoonerFan]

I retired earlier this year and have been spending LOTS more time in my shop.  It’s been great.  One thing I quickly noticed was how much more productive I am working on a project everyday vs just on Saturday and Sunday.  When I worked just weekends I always seemed to forgot details and it seemed to take me time to get back in the groove.  Now it takes just a couple minutes to remember “the state” of my project the next morning.  Additionally working in the shop daily has lead to several layout changes attempting to improve my work flow. 

This overall theme of work flow and shop productivity has lead me down a few different paths:

1.  I set up a temporary spray booth and sprayed cabinets for the first time.  This was a great experience and something I will continue in the future.  In fact I built an addition on the back of our shop which will eventually be dedicated paint booth.

2.  I have started to design permanent ducting for my dust collector.  To date I have just used flexible tubes, quick connects and had the occasional need to move the dust collector.

3.  I am planning to get a power feeder and Mag Switch/magnetic attachment base.  I am hoping using magnetics will facilitate easier/faster change over from machine to machine.  Mostly moving between router table and table saw.  I am also planning on a four wheel feeder to allow it to be used on bigger jobs jointing longer boards.  Four wheels allows two on the in feed table before the cutter and two on the out feed table after the cutter.

4.  I have found that I have basically left my MFK700 configured to flush trim hardwood edge banding.  And I have thought more seriously about getting a Conturo since I am making lots more cabinets these days.  I have studied the Conturo multiple times and could never justify the cost.  Maybe now?

5.  Added an extra flip stop to each side of my Kapex Wings to provide more options for fast and simple repeatable cuts.  Also adding a clipboard like attachment to hold a cut list.

Curious what my fellow FOGers have done to improve work flow and productivity in your shops.  Anything from professional shops which might translate well to the home shop?

PS - I have also found that I watched a fair number of YouTube videos looking for suggestions.  I seem to watch Insider Carpentry with Spencer Lewis the most.  I have implemented lots of tips I learned from his videos.

 

[Packard]

After I had my picture framing business going for a while, and having organized it with “a place for everything and everything in its place”, I borrowed a friend’s video camera.

I set the lens on wide angle and recorded a little over an hour of me working in the shop.

What I saw amazed me.

I would go from one workstation to “borrow” a tool from another.  Then either I returned it to the other workstation, or I went looking for it later.

In picture framing, a dull utility knife blade can result in an hour’s worth of corrective work.  So I used break off blades where I could and used regular blades just once before replacing them. 

After analyzing the video, I duplicated a bunch of tools and had each work station have its own screw drivers, diagonal cutters, etc.

I bought about a dozen utility knives and I had a bin that said “sharp” and another that said “used”.  Each morning I would put fresh blades in the used knives.  It was much more efficient than replacing a blade in the middle of a job.  It also eliminated the temptation to say, “this blade is probably sharp enough”.

A funny thing happens when you eliminate all these bumps and bobbles.  Not only does the work become faster, it picks up a natural rhythm.  And with that rhythm, comes an improvement in workmanship. 

The framing business had an advantage over my home shop.  After a year, I had all the equipment that I would ever need.  I was not constantly adding new items that had to be integrated.

Not so with my home shop.  Adding equipment makes my shop look like a mess, and has me looking for tools all the time. 

Periodically, I organize the shop and that lasts until the next new addition.

I just bought a scroll saw. Right now it is sitting my my old Workmate.  I will have to find a spot for it, a spot for the replacement blades, and perhaps a spot for a foot pedal switch some time in the future. 

A wide angle video will tell you more about your setup than thinking about the problem.  I recommend it if you are looking for efficiency.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

I have found using a power feeder on machinery is a real game-changer. MUCH safer working, with the benefit of a better finish quality than feeding by hand.

I currently have a power feeder on my shapers (one of which is a saw/shaper so the feeder is available for the circular, though I can't remember the last time I used it to rip anything).

The most recent addition is a large jointer with a power feeder. I set the feeder so the tires are just kissing the board, enough to help pull it through the machine but not so much pressure that it would deform the board and affect the jointing process.

Next up will be adding a power feeder to the bandsaw....

If you're willing to consider permanently mounting a feeder, I'd strongly recommend considering the DS-400, paired with the digital readout and urethane tires. At ~170lbs you aren't going to be able to shift it from machine to machine, and requires a heavy machine so it doesn't tip over, but you won't find a better feeder until you bump to the Wegoma variomatic feeders found on Martin machines.

Comatic DS-400 power feeder:https://www.shopgearinc.com/products/Smart-4-Wheel-Variable-Speed-Power-Feeder-p493982362

Have fun and work safe!

 

[SoonerFan]

Packard, I will look into a video after I make some changes I know are needed.  I think it is a good idea but must admit I am a little afraid of what I am likely to see.  Multiple sets of often used tools in strategic locations is another good suggestion.

Tom, I have looked at the Co-Matics and understand they make feeders for PowerMatic, Grizzly and maybe others.  Nice machines for sure.  Ideal for me would be four wheels, 1/2 HP, 110 vs 220 and as I mentioned easy enough to move for a few reasons.  Four wheels as I would occasionally want to joint longer boards with it.  I believe 1/2 HP is enough for a non professional shop and for anything I might do.  More powerful and I have concerns about the weight.  I have available 110 by each machine I’d use the feeder.  Enough 220 is a challenge.  I realize I might not get everything I want.

I have only considered getting one because I cannot justify the cost of more than one.  Wanting one has led me down the mobile/magnet route. 

If I find one that I think will work and get the magnetic base figured out I should be fine with my SawStop PCS and my Jet Router Table.  Would still need to figure out how to use it with my Jet 8” HH jointer.

I know this is a journey that likely never ends.  I recently organized all my nails, screws, nuts, bolts, etc.  Even something as small as that as been helpful but was time consuming. 

 

[mcfal12]

After I had my picture framing business going for a while, and having organized it with “a place for everything and everything in its place”, I borrowed a friend’s video camera.

I set the lens on wide angle and recorded a little over an hour of me working in the shop.

What I saw amazed me.

I would go from one workstation to “borrow” a tool from another.  Then either I returned it to the other workstation, or I went looking for it later.

In picture framing, a dull utility knife blade can result in an hour’s worth of corrective work.  So I used break off blades where I could and used regular blades just once before replacing them. 

After analyzing the video, I duplicated a bunch of tools and had each work station have its own screw drivers, diagonal cutters, etc.

I bought about a dozen utility knives and I had a bin that said “sharp” and another that said “used”.  Each morning I would put fresh blades in the used knives.  It was much more efficient than replacing a blade in the middle of a job.  It also eliminated the temptation to say, “this blade is probably sharp enough”.

A funny thing happens when you eliminate all these bumps and bobbles.  Not only does the work become faster, it picks up a natural rhythm.  And with that rhythm, comes an improvement in workmanship. 

The framing business had an advantage over my home shop.  After a year, I had all the equipment that I would ever need.  I was not constantly adding new items that had to be integrated.

Not so with my home shop.  Adding equipment makes my shop look like a mess, and has me looking for tools all the time. 

Periodically, I organize the shop and that lasts until the next new addition.

I just bought a scroll saw. Right now it is sitting my my old Workmate.  I will have to find a spot for it, a spot for the replacement blades, and perhaps a spot for a foot pedal switch some time in the future. 

A wide angle video will tell you more about your setup than thinking about the problem.  I recommend it if you are looking for efficiency.

This is a great suggestion!!!

 

[Lincoln]

The most recent addition is a large jointer with a power feeder. I set the feeder so the tires are just kissing the board, enough to help pull it through the machine but not so much pressure that it would deform the board and affect the jointing process.

Hi Tom - I've never understood how this can work to surface anything but material which is already 'true'. How can it possibly remove any twist from a board? Or, a bow? Aren't you just turning it into a thicknesser?

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

The most recent addition is a large jointer with a power feeder. I set the feeder so the tires are just kissing the board, enough to help pull it through the machine but not so much pressure that it would deform the board and affect the jointing process.

Hi Tom - I've never understood how this can work to surface anything but material which is already 'true'. How can it possibly remove any twist from a board? Or, a bow? Aren't you just turning it into a thicknesser?

Hi Lincoln,

In principle (and in practice), using a power feeder on a jointer is really no different than hand feeding, in that you should:
-- Consider each board to identify what it needs (grain direction, twist, warp, etc....)
-- Feed the boards with the concave side against the beds
-- Once the leading edge of the board is past the cutter block, you should only be applying light- to moderate- pressure to the out-feed side of the board

So, assuming a woodworker had set up the power feeder to apply appropriate (approximating "hand") pressure, it's really no different.

I mostly work with 8/4 and thicker lumber, which is definitely more tolerant of machine feeding. The DS-400 with the DRO makes dialing-in the pressure a lot easier since you can easily and quickly adjust the pressure from board to board.

To your point though, "yes" if a worker really has the power feeder pressing down on the board, and/or has any pressure on the in-feed table, then it will behave like a thickness planer and not perform the task of flattening and truing the board.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The most recent addition is a large jointer with a power feeder. I set the feeder so the tires are just kissing the board, enough to help pull it through the machine but not so much pressure that it would deform the board and affect the jointing process.

Hi Tom - I've never understood how this can work to surface anything but material which is already 'true'. How can it possibly remove any twist from a board? Or, a bow? Aren't you just turning it into a thicknesser?

The only way I can see that working is for the powerfeeder to only make contact with the workpiece on the outfeed side. You would have to be in control of it by hand on the infeed side, which is not a bad thing.

As far as the original topic
[member=28223]SoonerFan[/member] congratulations on the retirement, I'm not long behind you, and the plan is the same.
I have worked in a cabinet/architectural woodworking shop for the last 20 years, doing very little at home. That's about to change, but I will be going from virtually unlimited space to a small garage (with a side room) that is only about 400sqft. That is going to be a challenge in itself.
The best advice I can give you to speed up production (ease workflow) involves organization, but not necessarily in the way that most people suggest. I'm not saying they are wrong, far from it. Those things are important too. Grouping and labeling hardware, tools near places of repeated use, etc. all great things
The things that improve flow have to do with set-ups and being able to complete repetitive tasks almost without thinking about it. Now, I'm not suggesting that you be a complete crazy person, like I am, but having multiple(or duplicate) tools for specific things has worked well for me. No sane person needs 20 routers  [eek] but it certainly helps. In my work, I change routers to get the bit or set-up I need rather than changing bits. My OF1400 is the floater that doesn't have a dedicated bit. If I need something out of the range of the usual bits, it gets the call.
You mentioned the MFK700 and leaving it set-up for wooden edges. I do the same, which I why I bought a second one. They are a fantastic tool, but I didn't want to break it down and lose the perfect adjustment, every time I wanted to use it.
I keep other routers for flush trim bits, pattern bits, roundover, 45 degree bevel, and a couple of different bushing and straight bit configurations. Two router tables and a Shaper Origin round out the fleet.
This is excessive, but a hobby guy could maybe have a second (or 3rd) since the modern compact machines are far more capable than they used to be, and they are more cost effective too.
Probably the biggest thing though is jigs and fixtures. Virtually anything repetitive will benefit from one or the other. Organizing and keeping them easy to reach is huge. I write the important information on every one of them. What it does, what bit or bushing combination, fence setting, etc.
Also, designate a place for everything, and keep it there. Things that do not have a proper home, just float about and get cluttered.
Having the tools to adjust a particular piece of equipment handy is also very handy. Like most people, I have "sets" of wrenches, hex keys, sockets, etc in a central location (main toolchest) but I also have extra individual copies in strategic places, where they will be needed. I have the Torx driver that I need to change my miter saw blade in the drawer below it along with the arbor nut wrench. I keep a screwdriver handle style Torx driver in each of the Systainers with my OF1010s (for changing coy rings or other base accessories) I have a secondary tray in the drawer with some of my trim routers containing spare bits, collet wrenches, fences, auxiliary bases, etc Everything close together in a way that makes sense.
This is mostly all lined up behind me, where I stand at the assembly table, all pretty close.
I may have to make some adjustments when I move it all home, hopefully only downsizing the workbench/assembly table. and giving up some floor space....a lot of floor space.  [blink]
I shouldn't need it though. My personal projects will be far smaller than the stuff I do now. Plus the idea of speed will not be nearly the factor it is now.
I might sell off a few things, but I'm in no hurry to do it.
I hope my rambling helps [embarassed]

 

[SoonerFan]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] for me retirement is like everyday being Saturday….don’t have to work that day and don’t have to work the next day.  It is a beautiful thing. 

I am envious of your router collection and having router dedicated for a task.  While I cannot go to that extreme I have considered a new MFK700.  I have mine basically dedicated to flush trimming and it takes a while to swap bases for other tasks. 

I use jigs but probably not to the extent I should.  The last jig I created is an extension to my MFT/3 which allows me to quickly and accurately clamp stiles/rails/panels for doors and drawer fronts.  I would love to build pneumatic table for this but concerned about the space.  I also bought a jig to install cabinet hardware and it is terrific.

Buying multiple tools to have placed in multiple locations is a good idea.  So far, rather than having often used hex keys, wrenches, etc. strategically placed around the shop I started wearing a small pouch in the shop.  Besides the tools to change blades, change bits, etc. I carry a nail set, couple mechanical pencils, dust collector remote, Centrotec screw driver and a couple bits, torpedo level, folding rule and a Milwaukee metric tape.  This has been a big help for me. 

I don’t accept work where the client has a hard deadline and for now only do stuff for people I know or friends of a friend.  I want to do a quality job.  I enjoy woodworking.  I don’t want this to become a job.  Therefore my focus on work flow and productivity is about becoming a better craftsman, building good habits, getting consistent results, and improving the quality of my projects.  And in the case of getting a power feeder it’s about improving safety. 

I appreciate the suggestions.  Thanks and a merry Christmas!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=28223]SoonerFan[/member] that is exactly what I intend retirement to be for me. Every day is Saturday or as Aerosmith put it "Permanent Vacation"
One of my main goals it to finally finish the remodel I started on my house, by building my own kitchen cabinets. I have literally built thousands of cabinets in all kinds of sizes, styles, and configurations. That includes complete kitchens as "side jobs" for friends/family members, but not for myself.
Lately I have gotten into more of a furniture design mindset and building with reclaimed wood. This was kind of brought on by some of the projects I have done at work. We went through a bit of a phase with a lot of projects made from barn wood parts. Most of them were more cabinetry oriented, and used the siding from the barn, but there were some thick beam sections too. Those were mantles, and table bases.
The order in which I do this is subject to change.

I'm glad to see you have worked out a system that is working for you, but I can't do the apron thing. A couple of the guys in the shop use them, in varying forms. Some do the full around the neck deal, others  more the string tied nail pouch like they used to give away at the lumber yard. I just move around too much for it. They always seem to be in the way or otherwise restrictive. All I keep on my person is a razor knife, a 12' Stanley tape, and a wooden pencil. I always have a mechanical pencil easy to access too. I tend to use the .7mm the most, but I do have a .5mm and a 1mm in the drawer too. It just depends on the task at hand.

Yeah, like I said, the excess of routers is a bit crazy, but it works for me. It is also a thing that will force you to put tools away as you get finished with them or you run out of horizontal surfaces  [eek]

 

[rvieceli]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] to give you some hope  [big grin] my shop is a 20x20 garage. That’s the outside dimensions. Inside I’ve got a 16 inch Oliver jointer (1945) that’s 106 inches long, a 20 inch planer, a 20 inch bandsaw (1974), a 1969 Powermatic 66 with only 30 inches to right of the blade plus a 16 inch Electro-Mechano drill press (1963) About 24 inch deep storage along 2.5 of the walls. Also a bigger but not gigantic cyclone shoe horned between the jointer and the garage door.

The advantage of the small shop is you don’t have to take hike between machines  [tongue]

The disadvantage is that there’s not a lot of space to work on multiple projects at the same time.

I’d like about 1500-2000 square feet so I could have a dedicated welding shop but space that could be turned into a shop is not very available in our town. The city bulldozed a bunch of old railroad warehouses several years back for a highway overpass that never materialized.

I’m not sure I can get the ROI I’d need to build something.

Ron

 

[SoonerFan]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] the apron and pouch do work for me.  But to each their own. 

One thing I attempted to do to improve my setup, skills, etc. was hire a more experienced woodworker like you to come to my shop and build cabinets with me.  I wanted input on my tool setup, my process, digital design, etc.  I found someone, selected the design software, and did the design.  Then I was completely ghosted.  Get returning my calls and texts.  I have no idea why,  Too bad because I was looking forward to learning a bunch from a pro.  On a positive note my skills have improved a bunch since I retired and can dedicate more time.  I am thankful for woodworking, cabinet making, etc as it gives me purpose and challenged in retirement.

 

[SoonerFan]

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member] Ron you seem to have packed a bunch in 400ish sq. ft. And it seems to be working for you which is great.  I built a 24’ X 40’ shop during COVID and then added on about 120 sq. ft. off the back for what will eventually be a paint room.  In the main shop I have a jointer, planner, SawStop PCS with an 8’ X 8’ out feed table, a router table, a drum sander, a drill press, a Kapex with wings, a big dust collector, and the a large table with a CNC.  And I have floor space to store in-process cabinets and to setup a temporary “paint booth” when I a bunch of spraying to do.  It works great for me.  It’s basically my “office” now that I am retired.  I go there everyday and I love the commute…..about 25 steps from our back door.

 

[Packard]

Build something (anything) twice in a row.  It will teach you a lot.

Build four of something, but think of how to do it efficiently. That might mean cutting all the parts to size at one time.

It might mean making simple marking fixtures. (I do this often.  It pretty much eliminates measuring errors, or it guarantees all the items will have the same error.

Make simple assembly fixtures, etc.

Once I started making multiples, I gained a mindset that improved my efficiency.

 

[Cheese]

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] to give you some hope  [big grin] my shop is a 20x20 garage. That’s the outside dimensions. Inside I’ve got a 16 inch Oliver jointer (1945) that’s 106 inches long, a 20 inch planer, a 20 inch bandsaw (1974), a 1969 Powermatic 66 with only 30 inches to right of the blade plus a 16 inch Electro-Mechano drill press (1963) About 24 inch deep storage along 2.5 of the walls. Also a bigger but not gigantic cyclone shoe horned between the jointer and the garage door.

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]  [not worthy] [not worthy] [not worthy] the only thing you haven't squeezed into that space is a pink 1961 Cadillac at almost 19' long.  [eek]

You and RMW are masters in maximizing space...and that's a good thing.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Build something (anything) twice in a row.  It will teach you a lot.

Build four of something, but think of how to do it efficiently. That might mean cutting all the parts to size at one time.

It might mean making simple marking fixtures. (I do this often.  It pretty much eliminates measuring errors, or it guarantees all the items will have the same error.

Make simple assembly fixtures, etc.

Once I started making multiples, I gained a mindset that improved my efficiency.

That’s a great post. As a pro I habitually do this on a constant basis for multiple batch-building. I throw simple jigs together and do exactly what you’ve suggested. Also - get a radio in your shop. Something to occupy your mind whilst doing mundane, repetitive work makes your day a whole lot more fun.

 

[SoonerFan]

Build something (anything) twice in a row.  It will teach you a lot.

Build four of something, but think of how to do it efficiently. That might mean cutting all the parts to size at one time.

It might mean making simple marking fixtures. (I do this often.  It pretty much eliminates measuring errors, or it guarantees all the items will have the same error.

Make simple assembly fixtures, etc.

Once I started making multiples, I gained a mindset that improved my efficiency.

That’s a great post. As a pro I habitually do this on a constant basis for multiple batch-building. I throw simple jigs together and do exactly what you’ve suggested. Also - get a radio in your shop. Something to occupy your mind whilst doing mundane, repetitive work makes your day a whole lot more fun.

This is great advice.  I definitely need to be better about breaking down my projects into repeatable tasks so I can batch, use jigs, and master efforts through repetition. 

As far listening the music/podcasts, I do have a radio in my shop.  However, most of the time I wear 3M ear protection over my AirPods.  I also wear an AppleWatch which seems to constantly tell me I am exposed to loud noise.  I wish Apple had a feature to click wearing ear protection.

 

[Packard]

I never listen to music in the shop.  In fact in the 60 years I’ve been working out in gyms, I have never worn an listening device.  I, instead concentrate on the exercise.  Not only concentrate, I focus on the immediate task. 

Maybe I lack some “concentration gene”, but when I need laser focusing, I don’t want the music.

In the gym, I am seriously in the minority.  I didn’t know I was in the minority in the shop too.

 

[twistsol1]

I never listen to music in the shop.  In fact in the 60 years I’ve been working out in gyms, I have never worn an listening device.  I, instead concentrate on the exercise.  Not only concentrate, I focus on the immediate task. 

Maybe I lack some “concentration gene”, but when I need laser focusing, I don’t want the music.

In the gym, I am seriously in the minority.  I didn’t know I was in the minority in the shop too.

It depends on the music you listen to. When I'm in the shop I usually have 80's pop music on because the musical styles are so simplistic and I've heard it so many times, it causes no distraction. When I listen to classical music, it requires active listening and there isn't much processing power for anything else. When Cleaning up, I put on Big Band music from the 40's but that often causes dancing, which to the casual observer can be terrifying.

Up until a few years ago, I traveled for work every week and was only home on weekends. Any projects I needed to complete were meticulously planned during the week while rotting in a hotel somewhere. That's where the actual thought came into play so no music or TV then. When I got back to the shop, I always knew exactly what I needed to get done and laid out the steps to precisely how I was going to do it. Unless I ran into an issue, no serious concentration was required at that point. I've gotten out of the planning habit now that I'm always home and that lack of clarity of process has bitten me from time to time. I also use story sticks alot because my penmanship is so poor I've had to rework things because I read the wrong number.

Volumes have been written on material flow for shops. My shop is roughly 1000 square feet and material moves in mostly in a counterclockwise circle from the door of the shop through the cutting and assembly stations and then out the door to finishing. The exception is my router table which is next to the door and I can't seem to find a better location for it where there is space.

I'm not a pro, but an IT/Finance guy that is also a serial home remodeler so there both is and isn't a lot of repetition in my work. Mostly I'm trying to figure out how to repair, replace, or amend what was, is, or should be in a house and make everything look like it was always that way.

 

[Packard]

At one point I was making a lot of drawers.  Setting up the dovetail jig annoyed me for some reason.  So I ended up with two identical Porter Cable jigs and two 690 routers.  I left the setup as is all the time.

All I had to do to make drawers was cut the blanks and then walk over to the jigs.

I’m not building many drawers lately and “borrowed” one of the 690s for my router table.  So, I have one jig/ router to setup.  The other is ready to go.