Workshop Shelves vs Cabinets

[jaguar36]

I'm fedup with the layout of the storage on one wall of my shop.  I've got got a couple shelves on one half that hold my cordless tools, drill bits, screws and stuff and then a pegboard on the other side that has some hand tools and random crap on it.  I want to redo the wall and am debating if I should put up cabinets, or a french cleat system, or just more shelves or what.  Cabinets would keep the dust out of everything which would be great, but then its harder to find stuff and takes longer to get it out.  Definitely plan on ditching the peg board, its a very inefficient use of space and I've got a small shop so I need every bit.

I'd like something flexible as my tool/supplies are constantly changing.  Right now I'm leaning towards cabinets on the ends with some shelves in the middle for the more commonly used items.  Of course shelves aren't great as things get hidden in the back and it seems like it always just turns into a big pile of crap.

All of my Festool stuff is in drawers under the work bench so thats not an issue.

Anyone have a setup they really like?  Pictures would be great!

 

[Mini Me]

This cabinet system is fully configurable as needs change

 

[Packard]

The one thing I did that most improved storage in my shop was to change the under-workbench-shelf to a series of 9 full extension drawers.

Cabinets can increase storage if there are holders attached to the interior of the doors.  But absent of those holders, the only difference the cabinets make is to make the shop look tidier. 

Also, look to the ceiling.  My smaller C-clamps hang from the I-beam that supports the joists.  Fluorescent bulbs hide between joists.  There are some pull-down storage products that make use of the space above your head. 

If you are trying to make more storage, convert all your shelves to drawers (up to eye level). 

Note:  The same applies to kitchen cabinets. I have drawers or pull-outs for most of my base cabinets.  I have drawers for my bathroom vanity.  These significantly improve storage and have the added benefit of being kinder to my back.

Addendum:  Mini responded while I was typing.  The image shown for the video shows all drawers.  So far, that seems to be the direction for improving storage.  I would note that I used full extension side mounted drawer slides.  Shop equipment gets heavy.  I think drawer slides are required.  I left about 2” space above the drawer fronts, so no drawer pulls are required, though I added some later on.  Both methods work fine.

 

[mino]

The one thing I did that most improved storage in my shop was to change the under-workbench-shelf to a series of 9 full extension drawers.

Cabinets can increase storage if there are holders attached to the interior of the doors.  But absent of those holders, the only difference the cabinets make is to make the shop look tidier. 
...

+1

I would add that the ideal combination - if full-height cabinets are involved - is to have drawers up to about 1 meter or 4' height and then continue with shelfs for standard boxes, one box/shelf with the "tops" of the shelves serving as the "top cover" for the boxes. That way one can use open-top boxes which are cheaper, but mainly it avoid the biggest issue with boxes - where to put the top covers once a couple are pulled out and opened ... If the cabinet is build-to-mach the box sizes, the space usage can be very efficient. I use plastic "euro containers, two of the 40x60 cm ones side by side, but even light ply boxes would do. If rare-access items are in the boxes and frequent-access ones are in the drawers one gets all the benefits of the "enclosed cabinet" combined with the flexibility of moving the boxes out as/when needed.

 

[squall_line]

I definitely appreciate this post, because it's inspired me to re-think my Sys-ports, likely to pull the Sys-AZ drawers from above shoulder height and just replace them with shelves for the higher-up Systainers.  It's pretty obnoxious to pull the drawer out and then get the systainer off of it, and it's not like I can open the lid and access the tool without a ladder.

Hindsight is 20/20 and all that... [doh]

 

[woodferret]

Sys drawers up to 4' as mentioned, leave a gap for a pegboard/control board, and then cubby shelves up top, with a large enough spacing to the ceiling for totes and weirdly oversized items.

 

[Sparktrician]

I think I'd prefer a system of five french cleats and cabinets built to a standard pattern such that they can be hung from those five cleats.  The cleats in my system would be placed at 12", 30", 48", 66", and 84" AFF.  You might check out this message for more on the subject. 

 

[rmwarren]

+1 for French cleats. I have cabinets, general shelves, specialized shelves for parts/fastener bins and tool holders that all hang from them. Constantly rearrange stuff.

The advice I'd give is to think hard about cleat sizes and spacing. Mine are 70mm high, spaced on 200 mm centers (don't ask how I got there) and it's not optimal. I also used 2 large fasteners in each stud, probably overkill.

In hindsight I'd probably go with something closer to 45mm cleats on 100mm centers. This would allow adjusting height of stuff in ~4" increments, better for small things.

Have fun. RMW

 

[Packard]

I definitely appreciate this post, because it's inspired me to re-think my Sys-ports, likely to pull the Sys-AZ drawers from above shoulder height and just replace them with shelves for the higher-up Systainers.  It's pretty obnoxious to pull the drawer out and then get the systainer off of it, and it's not like I can open the lid and access the tool without a ladder.

Hindsight is 20/20 and all that... [doh]

If you are creating pullouts for the Systainers that are above your head, then cut a hole in the bottom of the pullout that will allow you to “walk the Systainer out with your finger tips.  If there is no lip on the front of the sliding “shelf” you can walk it out 3 to 4 inches and then continue to slide it out grabbing on both sides of the Systainer.

A simpler arrangement that works best if the shelf (fixed) is made from melamine or Formica clad flat stock, is to attach a 1/2” thick piece of stock to the rear of the cabinet hinged at the top.  Attach a piece of nylon webbing to the lower portion of that hinged piece.  When you want to remove the Systainer, pull on the webbing and it will slide the Systainer out a few inches.

The complication of the installation is largely offset by the fact that no drawer slides are involved.

 

[jaguar36]

I should have specified that I'm just looking for on the wall, above a large metal lathe.
Here's a picture (it looks a little weird because its a panorama shot). 
[attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Another vote for french cleats. I have them in the auxiliary area of my home shop, where the lathe, and drill press are now residing. I also have a few small sections of cleats at work, but since I have minimal wall space there, it's mostly Systainers and drawers.
As I get to working on the main home shop area over the fall/winter, there will be more installed there too. I will be able to have more open storage there, since it's not shared space.
Much of what I have to "put away" as far as storage, will be more displayed and accessible at home.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I'm through with base cabinets without sliding shelves, either in the shop or the home. Very often, drawers and cabinets are where tools go to die alone. I've also discovered that an unlabeled Systainer is a very clever hiding place to put something you want to struggle to find. I love cleats and really enjoy the process of designing holders for tools. I have a couple drawers that are in desperate need of an afternoon of making foam or plywood liners and some empty cleat space that's been calling my name for a few weeks.

 

[Mini Me]

My tools get used in the workshop only, portability is not required so bulky systainers get the flick. They look impressive but are in the end do nothing for me and are space hogs. Peg board is a poor toll storage idea and like most here I use french cleats plus a lot of custom drawers on full extension slides. All my fasteners are in self made small boxes based on a 32mm system and made from 3mm MDF. Using a 32mm system means I can make boxes of any dimension divisible by 32 and they all mesh together in a drawer, 32x64, 64x64. 64x128 etc.

 

[Steve1]

I have drawers in my workbench, one shelf above it (which is a dust collector as you know, but handy for frequently used items), and then two rows of hooks above that.  Please excuse the mess in the photo below.

The hooks mounts are 1x3 pine with a vertical and horizontal hole, and then a pegboard hook inserted.  The geometry says the hook can't fit, but it's only pine, just needs a little more oomph on the insertion, then it's nice and tight.  Upper and lower hooks offset half a pitch.

[attachimg=1]

 

[squall_line]

This thread has me searching for used slatwall castoffs from retail store closures...  French cleat is probably more versatile, especially when I consider some of the bracketry some people make for their cleats.

 

[BarneyD]

[attachimg=1]

My mess. I prefer drawers and french cleats. No systainers as I rarely go on the road.

If you're looking for storage of lathe tooling, there's a great thread on Garage Journal from a few years ago:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/tooling-re-organization.381487/

Good luck.

 

[Packard]

I'm through with base cabinets without sliding shelves, either in the shop or the home. Very often, drawers and cabinets are where tools go to die alone. I've also discovered that an unlabeled Systainer is a very clever hiding place to put something you want to struggle to find. I love cleats and really enjoy the process of designing holders for tools. I have a couple drawers that are in desperate need of an afternoon of making foam or plywood liners and some empty cleat space that's been calling my name for a few weeks.

I’m waiting for someone to come up with a barcode system for home owners.  This is how I think it should work.

Every tool gets a bar code.
Every storage spot gets a bar code.

When you go to put something away, you scan the code on the tool and then scan the code on the storage area.

When it comes time to retrieve the item, you enter the description into your smart phone and it tells you where you stored it. 

I have two torpedo levels because I could not find the original when I looked for it.

I have two awls for the same reason.  And two brad drivers. 

Plus I spent time looking for the original until I gave up and bought the duplicate. 

A scanning system would solve that problem.  Ah, dreams…

 

[squall_line]

I'm through with base cabinets without sliding shelves, either in the shop or the home. Very often, drawers and cabinets are where tools go to die alone. I've also discovered that an unlabeled Systainer is a very clever hiding place to put something you want to struggle to find. I love cleats and really enjoy the process of designing holders for tools. I have a couple drawers that are in desperate need of an afternoon of making foam or plywood liners and some empty cleat space that's been calling my name for a few weeks.

I’m waiting for someone to come up with a barcode system for home owners.  This is how I think it should work.

Every tool gets a bar code.
Every storage spot gets a bar code.

When you go to put something away, you scan the code on the tool and then scan the code on the storage area.

When it comes time to retrieve the item, you enter the description into your smart phone and it tells you where you stored it. 

I have two torpedo levels because I could not find the original when I looked for it.

I have two awls for the same reason.  And two brad drivers. 

Plus I spent time looking for the original until I gave up and bought the duplicate. 

A scanning system would solve that problem.  Ah, dreams…

There's plenty of options out there already for this, it's the initial configuration and inventory that's a huge chore.

The ultimate solution is a combination of RFID or BLE tags and Augmented Reality apps, honestly.

 

[Steve1]

When it comes time to retrieve the item, you enter the description into your smart phone and it tells you where you stored it. 

It needs a good AI routine for when you can't remember the proper name for that tool.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I'm through with base cabinets without sliding shelves, either in the shop or the home. Very often, drawers and cabinets are where tools go to die alone. I've also discovered that an unlabeled Systainer is a very clever hiding place to put something you want to struggle to find. I love cleats and really enjoy the process of designing holders for tools. I have a couple drawers that are in desperate need of an afternoon of making foam or plywood liners and some empty cleat space that's been calling my name for a few weeks.

I have two torpedo levels because I could not find the original when I looked for it.

I have two awls for the same reason.  And two brad drivers. 

This is why I've got about 35 tape measures and several almost complete screwdriver sets!