ALI Construction
Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2018
- Messages
- 16
Note: I do not do this for a living, or professionaly. i just collect them.
have few full sets of 750's,
bevel edge socket swans, witherbys,
in the process of building a set of NOT pitted 720's (1/4-3/8-1/2-5/8-3/4-1-1.25-1.5-2) still missing 1.75" and 7/8"
a full set of #40 everlasting, and a #20 everlasting
currently trying to put together something of #740's only have a 1/2"-3/4"and 1" so far (they're really rare for some reason)
and many many single items like EA Bergs (wonderful steel) lakeside(made by Stanley) bucks, KK, etc etc. and few slicks.
and dont even get me started on japanese blades (love their steel but hate the ergonomics)
anywais. heres' a user set ive put togetherreal quick.
look at BEFORE pics and you'll understand.
these are just 1/4-1/2-3/4-1" small set Stanley used to sell a long while back.
most lengths were about factory lengths, unused.
I think i need to do a bit better flattening the 1" back to get more pitting out, but its surprisingly shaving sharp as well after leather strop.
pic with handles is to compare finished of original stanley handls colors to the UGLY RED (mohogony) i tried to match. as you can see, depending on year nad how they felt about it, stanley's colors are all over as well, so mot worried about collor much.
I've no idea why i restored those original handles but whats done is done. First i tried soaking the leather caps in oil but they were rock solid so i made my own and epoxied them on existing handles. cleaned them up a bit and stained them. wood was actually quite solid there.
New handles that are on the chisels themselves:
as close as i could match with original sizes.
these are made from IPE (brazilian walnut) Janka hardness of 3680 so its right up there just under lignum vitae.
In comparison beech is at 1300, and white oak at 1360, I'm sure IPE will stand to any abuse.
why did i leather capped it? for looks lol otherwise that leather is a joke at that level of wood hardness. besides if you look at pics, if iriginal stanley handles have a tennon thru leather roughly less then 1/2", the tennons on my IPE handles wee all roughly 7/8" so like i said, leather is just for looks.
Kept the color original, the new handles have bin stabilized with cyanoacrylate just because its still wood though its referred to as ironwood as well, and any wood moves slightly. figured its not going to hurt it.
They're also epoxied onto the chisels (I hate dropping socket chisels by excident if I grab it by the handle and its bin sitting for a while beforehand)
Sharpening wasnt an isua i do most of the work on worksharp 3000 slow speed grinder (basically sandpaper on glass-dead flat)
the grind is just a 30 degree flat grind, no micro bevels or ruler tricks.
have few full sets of 750's,
bevel edge socket swans, witherbys,
in the process of building a set of NOT pitted 720's (1/4-3/8-1/2-5/8-3/4-1-1.25-1.5-2) still missing 1.75" and 7/8"
a full set of #40 everlasting, and a #20 everlasting
currently trying to put together something of #740's only have a 1/2"-3/4"and 1" so far (they're really rare for some reason)
and many many single items like EA Bergs (wonderful steel) lakeside(made by Stanley) bucks, KK, etc etc. and few slicks.
and dont even get me started on japanese blades (love their steel but hate the ergonomics)
anywais. heres' a user set ive put togetherreal quick.
look at BEFORE pics and you'll understand.
these are just 1/4-1/2-3/4-1" small set Stanley used to sell a long while back.
most lengths were about factory lengths, unused.
I think i need to do a bit better flattening the 1" back to get more pitting out, but its surprisingly shaving sharp as well after leather strop.
pic with handles is to compare finished of original stanley handls colors to the UGLY RED (mohogony) i tried to match. as you can see, depending on year nad how they felt about it, stanley's colors are all over as well, so mot worried about collor much.
I've no idea why i restored those original handles but whats done is done. First i tried soaking the leather caps in oil but they were rock solid so i made my own and epoxied them on existing handles. cleaned them up a bit and stained them. wood was actually quite solid there.
New handles that are on the chisels themselves:
as close as i could match with original sizes.
these are made from IPE (brazilian walnut) Janka hardness of 3680 so its right up there just under lignum vitae.
In comparison beech is at 1300, and white oak at 1360, I'm sure IPE will stand to any abuse.
why did i leather capped it? for looks lol otherwise that leather is a joke at that level of wood hardness. besides if you look at pics, if iriginal stanley handles have a tennon thru leather roughly less then 1/2", the tennons on my IPE handles wee all roughly 7/8" so like i said, leather is just for looks.
Kept the color original, the new handles have bin stabilized with cyanoacrylate just because its still wood though its referred to as ironwood as well, and any wood moves slightly. figured its not going to hurt it.
They're also epoxied onto the chisels (I hate dropping socket chisels by excident if I grab it by the handle and its bin sitting for a while beforehand)
Sharpening wasnt an isua i do most of the work on worksharp 3000 slow speed grinder (basically sandpaper on glass-dead flat)
the grind is just a 30 degree flat grind, no micro bevels or ruler tricks.
