Would I clog a CT 26 / MIDI with layers of paint from kitchen cabinets

[pinky]

Hi there,

I’m restoring our 75-year-old oak kitchen cabinets that have three layers of paint (lab-tested, lead-free). I tried removing the paint with a heat gun, and managed to lift some of the paint off in sheets, but the fumes were bad, the process was slow, and the results were inconsistent (sometimes only the top layers come off, sometimes it goes all the way to bare wood).

I'm considering buying a RO 90 with either a CT 26 or CT MIDI. My concern: I’ve read that sanding paint can generate much finer dust than sanding wood. If I sand through all three paint layers on these old cabinets, would I clog the CT?

Any input welcome. Thanks!

 

[pinky]

Tangent: I am also puzzled by the manual filter cleaning feature on the MIDI. If you agitate the filter, won't the dust fall from the filter to the *exterior* of the bag, hence get sucked right back into the filter once the airflow is resumed?

 

[Coen]

Yes and no. The dust that is caked to the top of the inside of the bag also falls down to the bottom of the bag. And what was on the filter also moved sideways.

In my experience the MIDI clogs sooner than the 26 but that manual cleaning thing really does work.

Here is my Midi-I btw, on the left of side of the picture.
It did need some cleaning afterwards. This was a brick chimney, so plenty of fine dust available.

 

[Duckler]

Well, our flooring installer had a Fein (I think) vacuum with the automatic thumper technology. This was about 12 years ago. But that thing did a great job with keeping the filter clear/clean.
Anyway, have you considered a cyclone-style separator?
BTW - what you are doing is a pretty nasty (i.e. dusty and grungy) job. So thanks for letting some of us learn from your struggles.

 

[Michael Kellough]

This is the FOG, so of course you need a Festool sander and dust extractor.

But for stripping paint you need a serious infrared paint remover.
The heat gun demonstrates proof of concept but it’s too puny for a large project.

To get the best results out of an infrared source you have to find the right combination of distance to heat source and speed of movement.
For stripping cabinet doors I’d hang the infrared tool from an overarm (like a raised 2x4) set up over a table. Then slide the door under the lamp at the appropriate speed.

On the other hand, if the doors are just flat panels doing some hand scraping (not so difficult after you learn how to keep the blade sharp) to get most of the abrasive clogging paint off will then allow you to start sanding and as soon as you get down to bare wood it’s off to the races.

On the other other hand, if these are raised panel doors you’ll need to also use the heat gun and variously shaped steel implements to get paint out of the profile.
And then you sand with variously shaped sanding implements by hand. (Definitely worth trying the new Festool sponge profile sanding pads here)
And once you are about halfway through this job, while taking a much needed break, you’ll tally up all the money you’ve invested in restoring the doors, and all the hours you’ve devoted and realize you’ve got that many more hours to go, and you’ll wish you just bit the bullet and ordered new doors, ready to finish or maybe even pre-finished.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

A lot of the technique required to strip paint has to do with heat generation. It globs and sticks back to itself and to your sandpaper. The trick to it is using a very coarse grit but not going hog wild with it. There is potential for damaging the wood underneath it, from being too aggressive.
While you are still in the considering stage, an RO125 is probably a better choice, at least for this project. Not only is the larger disc size less likely to make gouges in the substrate, and generate less heat, you can get Saphir paper for it.
Depending on how thick this paint really is, you might want to go as low as 24 grit. If it's not that bad, go for 36. The 36 might be better for wood, especially if you have concerns about technique. 24 is safer with metal, where it wouldn't gouge as deep. Either way, be prepared to move up the grit pretty quickly, so you don't cause yourself more work smoothing afterward.
Assuming re-painting, priming heavily will fill scratches better than rounding over the edges, by over doing the sanding. There is no need to go any finer than 120, for priming.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

And once you are about halfway through this job, while taking a much needed break, you’ll tally up all the money you’ve invested in restoring the doors, and all the hours you’ve devoted and realize you’ve got that many more hours to go, and you’ll wish you just bit the bullet and ordered new doors, ready to finish or maybe even pre-finished.

Agreed 100%, except I would evaluate before getting halfway......
It is so hard to evaluate the scope of the job, from such a minimal description.

 

[tjbnwi]

Check to see if someone in your area does laser stripping.

Tom

 

[Cheese]

View attachment 379574

Cool photo @Coen ...nicely done.

I wish I'd have thought of that when I removed our chimney.