Your most disappointing woodworking purchase.

[PaulMarcel]

For me, it would be the Laguna 16" helical jointer/planer. It isn't bad, mine you, but my plan back when I got it was to slide it where the PM20 planer is and have a jointer and planer. The reality is that the fliptop tables flip the most inconvenient way for my shop. Others flip the better way for me.

Other reality is that out here, I no longer have a rough stock supplier once Chandler Hardwoods closed (moment of silence...). The other places all have surfaced stock and usually surfaced significantly thinner than actual 4/4 would shrink while drying ("for your convenience"). So I even avoid planing when possible unless I want that factory 3/4" look or Dollar Store 5/8" look.

So anyone in AZ interested, let me know... would love the space back

 

[Sparktrician]

My Porter Cable biscuit joiner is perhaps my least used piece of woodworking equipment.  The fault lies in me. 

My PC biscuit joiner was donated to my son as soon as I bought the DF 500.  Absolutely no regrets about that upgrade, but I will admit a serious lust for the Lamello P2.  [smile]

 

[luvmytoolz]

I have a couple of other brand biscuit joiners bought for Frankenjointer projects, but the only one I've preferred has always been the ELU DS140 I bought new some 40 something years back, as it's the only one I'm aware of that doesn't plunge forwards/backwards, but actually pivots, so you can also cut longer slots for home made bis[attachimg=1]cuits, or use it a small circular saw with a fence, which is something I've used it as a massive amount. And the micro adjustment is next level stuff.

If you ever see one second hand, they're well worth getting.

 

[daveva]

Hands down for me, the porter cable detail sander

same here terrible.

 

[peter halle]

I have a couple of other brand biscuit joiners bought for Frankenjointer projects, but the only one I've preferred has always been the ELU DS140 I bought new some 40 something years back, as it's the only one I'm aware of that doesn't plunge forwards/backwards, but actually pivots, so you can also cut longer slots for home made bis[attachimg=1]cuits, or use it a small circular saw with a fence, which is something I've used it as a massive amount. And the micro adjustment is next level stuff.

If you ever see one second hand, they're well worth getting.

One popped up in my area on Facebook a couple on months ago for $75.  I was tempted to buy it until my wife discovered my plans for a 150 mile roundtrip.  With a CNC on the horizon it was best to forget about it.  It only sold about a week ago once it was posted in one of the Facebook groups that specialize in the sales of Used tools and machinery.

Peter

 

[luvmytoolz]

I have a couple of other brand biscuit joiners bought for Frankenjointer projects, but the only one I've preferred has always been the ELU DS140 I bought new some 40 something years back, as it's the only one I'm aware of that doesn't plunge forwards/backwards, but actually pivots, so you can also cut longer slots for home made bis[attachimg=1]cuits, or use it a small circular saw with a fence, which is something I've used it as a massive amount. And the micro adjustment is next level stuff.

If you ever see one second hand, they're well worth getting.

One popped up in my area on Facebook a couple on months ago for $75.  I was tempted to buy it until my wife discovered my plans for a 150 mile roundtrip.  With a CNC on the horizon it was best to forget about it.  It only sold about a week ago once it was posted in one of the Facebook groups that specialize in the sales of Used tools and machinery.

Peter

They go up pretty rarely here, and usually around the $150-$250 mark, which is pretty amazing for such an old tool, but given it can be used for biscuits as well as a trim saw to cut dado's, rebates, etc, it's an incredibly useful tool.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Hands down for me, the porter cable detail sander

same here terrible.

Ditto. I do get some use from the little rubber attachments when hand sanding small profiles.

 

[Packard]

Hands down for me, the porter cable detail sander

same here terrible.

Ditto. I do get some use from the little rubber attachments when hand sanding small profiles.

Me too.  It was so useless that I forgot I had it.  I don’t think it is still in production.  I will google it to check.

Addendum, Google results:  A bunch of used ones for sale.  Some reconditioned ones (though I cannot imagine anyone using it enough that it requires reconditioning).  Amazon lists it as “unavailable”.  So probably out of production.

I would note that it looked like the perfect tool for the job of sanding molding .

 

[SoonerFan]

Mine is a DeWalt 18v cordless drill.  I had 14.4V for years and it was good.  I “upgraded” to an 18v drill/impact driver combo kit only to find to was heavy near the chuck making it a pain to align properly.  It’s very big and useless in somewhat tight spaces.  Once I got the T18+3 kit, I put the DeWalt in a drawer and allow it to collect dust. Only use it if I need to drill into something that requires little precision, something I am afraid might damage my T18+3 and only use it with cheap old bits. 

 

[Cheese]

My PC biscuit joiner was donated to my son as soon as I bought the DF 500.  Absolutely no regrets about that upgrade, but I will admit a serious lust for the Lamello P2.  [smile]

My PC biscuit was sold to my neighbor for $25 the day after I purchased my DF 500. Gone is that horrible sound of dry gear against dry gear...or whatever was making that racket. Good riddance. [thumbs up]

As for a really useless tool, back in the '70s, I bought a Craftsman radial arm saw.  What a piece of junk that was!  Some time in the '80s, I donated it to the range where I shot frequently for cutting target stands.

Sparky, when I first QUICKLY read your reply, I thought you donated it to the range and they used it for target practice.  [big grin]  Although eventually they may just do that anyways when it's no longer needed.  [cool]

 

[Packard]

My Craftsman Radial Arm saw sees regular use for square cut offs.  I never change the angle, so it remains accurate for 90 degrees.  I also use it for dadoes. 

I am seriously glad I got the negative hook angle dado set for the RAS.  I use it for both the table saw and the RAS.  It cuts slower than the original dado set, but the cuts are much cleaner.  Especially tear out on plywood veneers.

I paid $100.00 for mine.  A digital version.  Including delivery (about 50 feet from my across the street neighbor.  I would not give it up unless I was getting something superior. 

It makes substantially cleaner cuts than my 12” chop saw.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Radial arm saws are great for a lot of things, especially dados. I made a pair of dadoed stair stringers with a SCMS one time, many years ago. (It was a request from my parents, or I wouldn't have bothered) It was quite a challenge, with spacers and a lot of fiddling. You get it all figured out....then have to reverse it all.
With a dado stack in a RAS, it would have been easy.
The amount of space they take is an issue though. I wouldn't give up my SCMS to have one.
If I had to do the stair stringers again, I would probably do it with a router and a jig.
Blades however, I disagree. I absolutely hate that many manufacturers do this negative rake thing for an SCMS as if it's the same as an RAS. With an RAS it is required, except for rip cuts, which most people don't do (or caution against) But, it makes cutting harder on an SCMS, for no good reason.
I use a 5 degree + rake TCG on my SCMS most of the time, but will get out an ATB, when necessary.

 

[Packard]

I had an issue on the way Sears marketed their RAS.  They made a big deal on how smooth the linear bearings were in their saw.  And to make sure that they were, they were set from the factory on the “loose side”.

Loose bearings are the main cause of the dreaded “blade climb”, where the blade climbs the stock and rushes back at you. 

The RAS, poorly set up has the ability to be the most dangerous tool in your shop.  Properly set up, it is no more dangerous than a table saw. 

 

[Lincoln]

I had an issue on the way Sears marketed their RAS.  They made a big deal on how smooth the linear bearings were in their saw.  And to make sure that they were, they were set from the factory on the “loose side”.

Loose bearings are the main cause of the dreaded “blade climb”, where the blade climbs the stock and rushes back at you. 

The RAS, poorly set up has the ability to be the most dangerous tool in your shop.  Properly set up, it is no more dangerous than a table saw.

I had a RAS climb at me, when I was a first year apprentice, crosscutting some rough sawn hardwood. It happened so quickly, there was no possible way to react in time. Was nearly 30 years ago, but I still remember it like it was last week!

 

[luvmytoolz]

I had an issue on the way Sears marketed their RAS.  They made a big deal on how smooth the linear bearings were in their saw.  And to make sure that they were, they were set from the factory on the “loose side”.

Loose bearings are the main cause of the dreaded “blade climb”, where the blade climbs the stock and rushes back at you. 

The RAS, poorly set up has the ability to be the most dangerous tool in your shop.  Properly set up, it is no more dangerous than a table saw.

I had a RAS climb at me, when I was a first year apprentice, crosscutting some rough sawn hardwood. It happened so quickly, there was no possible way to react in time. Was nearly 30 years ago, but I still remember it like it was last week!

We had a guy at one of the door companies I worked at have the RAS climb, and unfortunately for him he instinctively tried to re-affirm his hold on the timber, cut off most of 3 fingers.

 

[Lincoln]

I had an issue on the way Sears marketed their RAS.  They made a big deal on how smooth the linear bearings were in their saw.  And to make sure that they were, they were set from the factory on the “loose side”.

Loose bearings are the main cause of the dreaded “blade climb”, where the blade climbs the stock and rushes back at you. 

The RAS, poorly set up has the ability to be the most dangerous tool in your shop.  Properly set up, it is no more dangerous than a table saw.

I had a RAS climb at me, when I was a first year apprentice, crosscutting some rough sawn hardwood. It happened so quickly, there was no possible way to react in time. Was nearly 30 years ago, but I still remember it like it was last week!

We had a guy at one of the door companies I worked at have the RAS climb, and unfortunately for him he instinctively tried to re-affirm his hold on the timber, cut off most of 3 fingers.

Horrible. I've seen similar happen too and it stays with you. That's why training and technique are so important. Happens in an instant and blades don't care what they're cutting, so you have to account for worst case scenario. Some of the (lack of) technique I see on Youtube etc is...concerning.

 

[Packard]

Good training is important, but I believe most of these events would be far less likely if the bearings were adjusted for a tighter fit.  In most cases where the carriage slides “smooth as silk”, the bearings are too loose.

If you grasp the horizontal beam and try to lift it, there should no (absolutely no) play in the bearings.

Adjusting the bearings is pretty straightforward.  I did it years ago using the owners’ manual.  I’m sure that information is now available online.

The best part is there is no cost for this. I thought I could find a video of the RAS climbing the stock, but I could not find one.

 

[Cheese]

Ya, I still own a RAS...a Dewalt/Black & Decker 12"...I'm the original owner since the 70's...anyone want to purchase it?

It's a nice saw with a new Forrest 12" negative tooth blade ($165) attached...anyone want to purchase it?

It works great and after all these years I still enjoy using it...anyone want to purchase it?

I married it to an original Dewalt/Black & Decker saw stand that includes built in drawer slides...anyone want to purchase it?

I have a bunch of original Dewalt accessories available including a shaper attachment...anyone want to purchase it?

And then there's the original factory adjustable dado blade...wicked cool...anyone want to purchase it?

Ya, time has moved on and the RAS has not. I'll put it on Craigs list this spring for $100 and will not get a bite. I'll then drop it to $50 and I will be lucky to have one interested person that will offer me $25 bucks for it while he asks me to help him move it from the basement and place it in his truck and give him a 90 day warranty.

Such is the life of unwanted equipment.  [crying]  Sometimes I feel it's just better to toss it and be done with the problem.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Radial arm saws are great for a lot of things, especially dados. I made a pair of dadoed stair stringers with a SCMS one time, many years ago. (It was a request from my parents, or I wouldn't have bothered) It was quite a challenge, with spacers and a lot of fiddling. You get it all figured out....then have to reverse it all.
With a dado stack in a RAS, it would have been easy.

That HK-85 with the dado blades would be really nice for that application. I follow a couple accounts on Instagram that use the RAS extensively for dados and tenon work. If you have the space and make big stuff, they look amazing.

 

[Packard]

I always get a little jealous when I see the huge radial arm saw at Home Depot.  Of course they have a lot of space—but still—does anyone working at the Big Box store appreciate that piece of equipment?  No.  So they don’t deserve it. [eek]