Zero clearance fence for the Kapex -- My approach

[ChuckM]

To keep the loss of cutting capacity to a minimum, I use a thinner plywood board (1/8"?) for the sacrificial fence. Instead of screwing (and filing the screw heads flat), I went with the double-faced tape that's much stronger than the carpet tape (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/adhesives/tape/49224-double-sided-turning-tape).

The critical thing about ZCFs is that they must not alter the quality of cuts (which is why we got the pricey Kapex in the first place). I checked for flatness and squareness after installation. After 10 to 15 minutes for the tape adhesive to settle, I removed the clamps.

 

[tofu]

What's wrong with a strip of carpet tape?

I think the issue is whether it's going to flex at the unsupported area where the blade cuts.

 

[ChuckM]

Carpet tapes come in different brands and, perhaps strengths, too -- some stronger, some weaker. I have had failures with using some carpet tapes from the big box store, partly because the shop could drop down to -15C or even lower in some winter days (with humidity at 70% or higher). The harsh conditions are something I have to work with (and that's why all finishes are kept indoors year round).

The turning tape hasn't failed...so far. Caution: Do not use too much of it if the intention is for a temporary bonding, or if the template is thin!

Flexing, if any, can be totally avoided if one pulls the blade down and slides the two fences to meet the blade before use.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] I might give this a go. I have made mine from oak, mahogany and ply in the past, and they start cupping, despite being screwed etc.
At least this way, they are bonded more evenly.

The workshop temp can be unstable at times but, it’s driving me nuts keep changing them.

 

[ChuckM]

JJ,

PM me your mailing address, and I'll airmail you 4 strips (2 per sub-fence), full length of the fence to try out.

If, for any reason, you want to remove the ZCF, hammer in a wedge to separate it from the Kapex fence. (By the way, my ZCF is almost as thick as the Kapex fence (5.5mm or 6mm?)).

It may take much longer more than the usual one or two-week shipping time due to the backlog at the postal service in both countries. Canada Post says it's handling volumes comparable to those encountered in Christmas time. (All my woodworking purchases have been done by mail/courier delivery or curbside pickups over the past 7 weeks or so.)

 

[Cheese]

I have made mine from oak, mahogany and ply in the past, and they start cupping, despite being screwed etc.

Jiggy, I made mine from 9 mm Baltic Birch ply and 4 years later it still is flat. Maybe the ply you used was too thin to start with so that there were not enough plies or the plies were not thick enough to prevent warping? Just a thought.

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[CeeJay]

I’ve used scraps of Pre-painted mdf base board for mine. It’s 18mm thick so lose a bit of capacity but stays perfectly flat and straight. Bolted on, so I can swap between square and 45 degree ZCF as needed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hdv]

Just like Cheese, I made mine from Baltic Birch ply. The first version was 18 mm thick, but that was a mistake because it made the hold down clamps of the Kapex unusable. And I love those clamps! The second version was made of 9 mm BB and works like a charm. Both halves are fixed with two counter-sunk bolts and I haven't noticed any warping at all.

 

[Gregor]

Jiggy, I made mine from 9 mm Baltic Birch ply and 4 years later it still is flat. Maybe the ply you used was too thin to start with so that there were not enough plies or the plies were not thick enough to prevent warping? Just a thought.

I made one from 6mm, stays flat. Only problem is that it shrinks too quickly when switching between different miter angles...

 

[kevinculle]

I also use 6mm (1/4") ply but I glue a stiffener to the back on each side in the area between the aluminum backing plates.  I made templates for each side that when starting with a new piece allow the fence attachment to just meet the outside end of the channel the fence rides in so I get as many cuts as possible before using it up.  For rough mitering I pull the fences back so as not to lose any length.

 

[Cheese]

And I love those clamps! The second version was made of 9 mm BB and works like a charm. Both halves are fixed with two counter-sunk bolts and I haven't noticed any warping at all.

FWIW...I removed one of the points on both of the clamps so that they would still pivot into position. Easier than removing the clamp and then replacing the clamp.

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[waho6o9]

View attachment 1

I like that clamp idea Cheese, good show!

 

[hdv]

Nice!

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] Thanks Chuck that’s very kind of you and appreciated. [not worthy] I do have some strong double sided tape and thin ply here, so I’ll give that a go first.

I have made fence covers from oak, planed to 8mm, mahogany also 8mm and 9mm ply. To be honest the ply isn’t the best quality but, the oak and mahogany were.

Another problem is, even 8mm is to thick, because I use the UG cart and wings, the added thickness won’t let me use the auxiliary fences with inserts unless they are very thin. Because when the wings are in their normal position, they are further back than the fence inserts.
Ideally the inserts would need to be 6-7mm max.

It’s not a big deal removing them but, even using clamps, kick back sometimes occurs.
I’ll make some thinner inserts from decent ply, and see what unfolds.

 

[kevinculle]

I also use the UG Cart and wings and with 6mm (1/4") plywood there is enough adjustment to allow aligning the wings with the fence including ply.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I also use the UG Cart and wings and with 6mm (1/4") plywood there is enough adjustment to allow aligning the wings with the fence including ply.

Yes, I think the previous 120 EB Kapex has more scope to allow thicker fences. The 120 REB Kapex (current model) has less, because it has the pull out side supports, and the clamping bracket for the wings, gets caught in the gaps if it comes forward with thicker fence plates.

 

[BarrySumpter]

I also use 6mm (1/4") ply but I glue a stiffener to the back on each side in the area between the aluminum backing plates.  I made templates for each side that when starting with a new piece allow the fence attachment to just meet the outside end of the channel the fence rides in so I get as many cuts as possible before using it up.  For rough mitering I pull the fences back so as not to lose any length.

Any chance of some pics?  I thought maybe 12mm bamboo would sort the flex.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

I’ve now gone with 7mm oak, and it’s been all good since my last post.