1. Routing a channel for LED lights using the MFS

Gregor said:
I'm still curious what you plan on doing with the domino connectors in the stretchers.
Apart from that: thanks for the interesting topic.

The first cabinet has to be removable.......

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........because this is behind it. Access to the attic where there are some electrical connections I may want to revisit.

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So the Domino connectors will retain the face frame/trim that will be removed if the cabinet needs to come out.

Also behind the cabinet is a trolley system I built to utilize the extra space for storage.

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So the track for the trolley and the sub base for the cabinet also needs to be removable for attic access. A few judiciously placed screws and some Dominos for proper alignment took care of that.

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One side of the track is attached to the sub base so removing that will allow the attic "plug" to be removed. Here you can see the sub base and the trolley track standing up.

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This second part of the thread is about resawing aromatic cedar slabs for use as a drawer lining material.

More importantly, it's about using the MFS to route out BB ply to receive the cedar strips and then the MFS is reconfigured and screwed to the BB ply and it then becomes a jig to notch the ends of the cedar strips. The cedar strips are then installed in the drawers and the front & rear cedar strips retain the side strips without using fasteners or adhesives. If you want to remove the cedar for some reason, you simply lift them out.

A couple of aromatic cedar slabs 8/4 thick and 9" x 70".  After being resawn and cut to approximate size, each strip measures .280-.295" thick.

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After going through the planer, each strip is now .246"-.248" thick. Although tough to tell here, there are 2 different widths, 4 1/8" and 6 1/8".

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The BB ply has already been notched out to a width of 6 1/8" at a depth of .248".

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A close-up of how the MFS is positioned and fastened on the ply to notch each end of the cedar.

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The .248" deep opening that each cedar strip slides into.

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A photo of the BB after the MFS has been removed. The 2 mounting holes used are circled in green ink while it's also noted that the MFS 200 was used in these positions. The actual opening size of the MFS has already been noted in a notebook and along with a couple of photos, If I need to route a few more strips, it becomes a simple process to set up the fixture again. [big grin]

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The 4 1/8" wide cedar strip is placed in the fixture while a 2" filler strip is placed next to it on the RH side. It will be slid all the way into position so that it also offers edge protection to the routed strip to help prevent the edge from chipping.

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Router in place and ready to proceed.

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The results.

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The cedar strips installed in the drawers.

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Wouldn't rabbet go easier and faster on a router table rather than MFS?
 
Sparktrician said:
Sweet job, O Cheesy One!  [smile]

Thanks Sparky...just another tutorial as to how to take care of business if the router table is set up for an other job. I know it’s hard to believe, but some of us don’t own 2 or 3 router tables.
 
Cheese said:
Sparktrician said:
Sweet job, O Cheesy One!  [smile]

Thanks Sparky...just another tutorial as to how to take care of business if the router table is set up for an other job. I know it’s hard to believe, but some of us don’t own 2 or 3 router tables.

WHAT???  [scared]
 
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