1" thick MFT/3 replacement top

[clutzer]

Hey all, I saw this excellent post on creating your own MFT top using the LR-32 system and I had to try it out.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/make-a-perfect-'mft'-with-qwas-raildogs

Ultimately I'm going to use this top in my MIRT project (MFT Incra Router Table) which is why I used 1" thick MDF and finished it with Shellac, but 3/4" would be perfect for a simple MFT/3 replacement project.  I don't have any innovation to add over and above the original post above, but I do provide some convenient dimensions of how to start things off which may make it easier to bang this out quickly--especially if you have a 4x4' sheet of MDF lying around.

Step 1: go and get a 4' by 4' sheet of 1" thick MDF.  (You can get a smaller sheet, but obviously this size is convenient because it's likely your lumber store will have it lying around--mine did.)

Step 2: layout the guide holes 37mm from the edge using the LR-32 rail.  The first guide hole can start roughly 150mm away from the perpendicular edge.  Route out 7 guide holes using the LR-32 rail, skipping two holes for hole you drill.  Every 3 holes is the magical 96mm you are looking for.  To make things square I chose the best factory edge to be the perpendicular edge to the rail and used my square to position it.  I used the LR-32 kit rail stop with 16 facing up.  Do this on both edges of the sheet.

Step 3: using rail dogs, come in about 3 3/4" in from the guide holes and route 11 dog holes.  Rinse and repeat this procedure for the remaining 6 guide hole pairs.

Step 4: flip the table over and chamfer the holes a 1/4" deep.  This allows the Festool clamps to be used and not bind on the hole.

Step 5: route an edge treatment on the top side.

Step 6: (optional) I'm using this as a router table top so I Shellac'd it and sanded it with 220 to get a nice smooth finish.

Note: the finished top as it stands right now is 33 pounds.  I will admit working with a full 4'x4' sheet of 1" thick MDF was a workout.

 

[pettyconstruction]

That's really cool.
I like how you did the work in the living room? Show off. Lol

 

[clutzer]

That's really cool.
I like how you did the work in the living room? Show off. Lol

Hahaha - I have nowhere else to do it ;-).  The only dust control issues I had were cutting the MDF top because there was nothing underneath the blade to support it--I'm sure I'll be cleaning an MDF dust film for a while...

I'm surprised nobody commented on the glacier on my patio (Boston snow storms have been a little bad this winter.)

 

[Jeff Zanin]

Very interesting, thanks for posting.  A few questions if you have time:

• Did the 1" MDF come from a specialty supplier?  I don't see it at my local big box.
• Which router bit did you use for the 20mm holes?
• Did you really rout the field holes sitting on top of your MFT?  If so how did you align it to rout into the MFT holes?

Jeff

 

[Sparktrician]

Have you tried getting Quick Clamps through the 1" top yet? 

Inquiring minds want to know... 

[smile]

 

[thedude306]

Have you tried getting Quick Clamps through the 1" top yet? 

Inquiring minds want to know... 

[smile]

he has a picture of one in the hole  He also had to open up the back side of the hole to to it.  I'm not sure of the advanage of going to the 1" over the 3/4" in this application. 

 

[Sparktrician]

Have you tried getting Quick Clamps through the 1" top yet? 

Inquiring minds want to know... 

[smile]

he has a picture of one in the hole  He also had to open up the back side of the hole to to it.  I'm not sure of the advanage of going to the 1" over the 3/4" in this application.

Well, just DUH!!!  I saw the 1" thick and that triggered the thought.  Maybe if I'd read further... 

[embarassed]

 

[clutzer]

Very interesting, thanks for posting.  A few questions if you have time:

• Did the 1" MDF come from a specialty supplier?  I don't see it at my local big box.
• Which router bit did you use for the 20mm holes?
• Did you really rout the field holes sitting on top of your MFT?  If so how did you align it to rout into the MFT holes?

Jeff

The 1" came from a local lumber store, I suppose you could call it a specialty store.  Not that this helps you at all, but I got it from Boulter Plywood in Somerville, MA.  They have marine grade plywood, cabinet grade, etc.

The router bit I used is the 20mm Festool cup hinge bit.  $59 from Amazon.

I did not sit on the top, I had the top on my MFT with 0.25" sacrificial plywood, then leaned over the table and plunged the router.

Hope that helps.

 

[clutzer]

he has a picture of one in the hole  He also had to open up the back side of the hole to to it.  I'm not sure of the advanage of going to the 1" over the 3/4" in this application.

100% agree with you for a general purposes MFT/3 top.  However, this is going to be a router table top and therefore I needed a thicker surface to support the weight.  I don't want a saggy router table in the near future.

 

[thedude306]

he has a picture of one in the hole  He also had to open up the back side of the hole to to it.  I'm not sure of the advanage of going to the 1" over the 3/4" in this application.

100% agree with you for a general purposes MFT/3 top.  However, this is going to be a router table top and therefore I needed a thicker surface to support the weight.  I don't want a saggy router table in the near future.

I would suggest supporting from the bottom side:

been there, done that:



It doesn't need much.  One on the left sagged.  One on the right is dead flat (picture of the bottom side)

 

[clutzer]

Thanks for the tip... I wasn't sure you'd need to reinforce a 1" top, but I guess you do...