100 year guide rail. Black
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squall_line
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RJNeal said:
If it's anodized, it should hold up rather well.
If it's just a spray coating, it'll be worn and ugly before you open the box after the delivery driver sails it across your driveway.
Crazyraceguy
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They don't show enough of it to tell, but if it was available in the slotted version (KP) it might buy one, despite the fact that it doesn't match.
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I wouldn't want to use it outside in the sun and whereas Festool now warns about their splinter guards and heat I wonder about an increase in peeling strips. I used to hate picking up my black carpenter squares or my black pry bars in the summer - I don't like wearing gloves.
Peter
Peter
Crazyraceguy
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Vondawg said:
OCD is a thing. [unsure]
Cheese
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Vondawg said:
Wall candy it is guys... [big grin] ...but there's no denying that she's still a thing of beauty. [cool]
Gotta love that 100 year logo. The 100 year logo on the DF 500 is also pretty sweet.
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squall_line said:
Anodizing is a penetrating finish, not a surface finish. The chemistry penetrates the to layer of aluminum, and depending upon the dyes used, color is added.
It is also notable that anodizing hardens the surface of aluminum. The longer the aluminum sits in the anodizing bath, more deeply it will penetrate.
In fact, some aluminum block race engines do not have cast iron liners in the cylinders, but rely on the hardness of the anodized aluminum. That is done for the improved heat transfer and the tighter tolerances they allow. The engines generally will be rebuilt for each race. So, good for 100 to 500 miles.
The American car, the Chevy Vega tried to use this process for passenger cars, and it was a disaster.
So, if Festool pays for “hard anodizing” it is possible that it will keep looking new for quite a while. I do recall that extended anodizing times can result in dimensional changes, but I don’t remember where I heard that and it may not be accurate.
So does that “100” mean the anniversary of Festool at 100 years? Or the expectation that the track will last 100 years?
Crazyraceguy
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The saw only touches the track on the sides of the raised rib anyway. The main contact is the green rub strips.
The middle picture in Cheese's link
This however, hurts my head. Why not just plunge and push with the left hand......and be done with it. That looks so awkward, maybe even painful. Looks stupid, even if it doesn't hurt.
The middle picture in Cheese's link
Cheese said:
This however, hurts my head. Why not just plunge and push with the left hand......and be done with it. That looks so awkward, maybe even painful. Looks stupid, even if it doesn't hurt.
mino
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European higher-end gasoline engines routinely use this tech for a decade or so. The first gen that came out in the 2000s had some reliability issues after 100k miles or so with corrosion. But those were solved by now. Is not really as simple as one's run of the mill anodising, but yeah, good-enough for a couple hundred thousand miles. Basic engines did not have this until the recent efficiency craze - the treatment is relatively expensive.Packard said:
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The color inviting heat in summer is a bit of a concern. On the other hand it is easier to see dust/dirt on a dark surface so there are uses in a shop.
Shame they did not make custom black sliding strips. That would be properly cool!
Cheese
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Crazyraceguy said:
Ya I agree, it's like some weird "better to be safe than sorry" thing. Probably some Germanic focus group thing. [eek]
The funny thing is, I can see some more serious consequences happening if there was a kick back because of his hand placement and the difficulty in trying to "just let go" when things run amuck.
On another note, the rail surface should be free of saw movement marks as you've noted, however, the rail guide would not be immune from that marking because it is in direct contact with the saw guide.
Cheese said:
Yes, it is strange, because I have seen the exact opposite recommendation of what that photo shows:
If you are on the right side of the saw, operate it with only your left hand and keep your body at the side of the saw, not at an angle behind it.
I don't know if that recommendation is actually safer, but it makes a lot of sense to me that if you have to be on the wrong side of the saw so you reach over the plane of the blade, you should at least keep out of the quadrant right/behind the saw.
squall_line
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Cheese said:
I mean, lefties just look at the world differently. It's rare that a workflow is actually better suited for a lefty than a righty as it is in thie case.
I’ve always tried to be ambidextrous, to the extent that my impact drivers have clips on both sides. The 18 years I coached soccer I always made girls play with both feet. I actually had, once a week, wrong footed day. It’s much better to be comfortable being two footed and handed than going through the contortions so many people use as a get around. I chalk this up to my high school sports being judo and karate.
Crazyraceguy
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squall_line said:
That is 100% true. We are often forced to adapt to a right-handed world. Even if we weren't "wired differently", as far as thinking (most, not all) just the adapting makes you see things in a different way.
My right-handed apprentice disagrees, but I see the DF500 as favoring lefties too. I really dislike the way the extraction hose is in the way of my hand, when used right-handed. From the left, it's a total non-issue. He says he knows it's there, but not bothersome.
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