1010 and lr32 guide plate

[usernumber1]

Has anyone drilled, tapped and screwed the lr32 plate to the 1010 router base? Some other way maybe?

I'm finding that the base always slips a tiny bit while tightening. It's pretty frustrating to align without moving. And even when you get it dialed, it has to be handled delicately in fear of getting bumped.
There's just a general low confidence in those hand screwed corner holders

 

[rmwarren]

I use an adapter now with a cordless DeWalt router, so no to your primary question.

However, I have the same problem. The next time I set it up I plan to take the time to glue or otherwise attach some stops that prevent the router from moving or fitting in any but the correct position. I haven't looked at it in detail but I expect there's room to glue a few little pieces of wood to the LR32 plate.

Hope this makes sense.

RMW

 

[woodferret]

I found tightening one of the knobs first avoids the twist.  With centering cone in lightly snug both.  Staring at the bottom of the base and the level feet notch to the top, snug the top-right one first.  Then the lower-left one.  That seems to avoid twisting for me.  I then unplunge and beat the bejesus out of it to see if it'll move.  If not, then I'm happy.

 

[Coen]

I have not. Maybe if I used it 100x more I would.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I used the LR32 plate recently and had a very hard time getting the OF1000 secure.
Really primitive! I gave up trying to get the spindle centered since it didn’t matter for just a run of shelf pin holes (I kept the guide rail in the same orientation).

Last time I used it was a few years ago and I must have known a trick at then that I’ve forgotten.

It seems a crescent shaped riser at least equal to the thickness of the router base is needed to keep the thick washer from tilting and pushing the router out of place.

 

[RussellS]

I then unplunge and beat the bejesus out of it to see if it'll move.  If not, then I'm happy.

Ha Ha.

 

[xedos]

My experience is like Coen's , never had an issue.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have only used mine once, but didn't have a problem with it shifting. It certainly looks like it could be more "techy", but it seems to work.

 

[Steve1]

Has anyone drilled, tapped and screwed the lr32 plate to the 1010 router base?

I have one of the newer 1010's and it has two unused M6 tapped holes already in the base.  You don't have those ?

I am not sure if the screw head height would be a problem, but photos of the guide plate rather look like it leaves a gap between workpiece and the plate.

 

[heidtwd]

150 grit self-adhesive paper is my go to for anti-slip & slide situations.

 

[woodferret]

That's a good idea.  Although I'd be worried about scratching the base (probably not a real concern).  I'm gonna try electrical tape in the meanwhile.  Thanks.

 

[Coen]

Has anyone drilled, tapped and screwed the lr32 plate to the 1010 router base?

I have one of the newer 1010's and it has two unused M6 tapped holes already in the base.  You don't have those ?

I am not sure if the screw head height would be a problem, but photos of the guide plate rather look like it leaves a gap between workpiece and the plate.

Unused? As in not for copy rings?

 

[tsmi243]

This right here is what you guys want-
https://www.toolnut.com/festool-486034-router-copying-ring-for-of-1010-40mm-od-x-37mm-id.html

Any router that you can put a 40mm bushing on will fit the LR32.  You don't even really need the clamps, gravity will keep the router in place (as long as you don't do anything dumb....  YMMV)

 

[usernumber1]

I might do the sandpaper/electrical tape that's pretty good! Maybe I'll turn the sandpaper side down to the lr32 or try the tape suggestion

Then drill this sucker out. there are screws included with the lr32 for the 1400 so there's definitely clearance. I think they are M6 so maybe I'll just use the same ones

Where are the extra screw holes on the bottom of the new 1010??

what is that toolnut link? it doesn't work from Canada

 

[tsmi243]

Just a basic router bushing.  The hole in the LR32 sled is 40mm.  Mine fits so snug, you'd have a hard time popping the router off the sled by accident.  I don't bother with the clamps anymore. 

 

[woodferret]

Where are the extra screw holes on the bottom of the new 1010??

what is that toolnut link? it doesn't work from Canada

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...s-for-festool-of-1010-eq-router?item=ZA486034

It should replace the black plastic ring with the two screws that are currently there.  You'll need a centering cone though.  Never really done a bushing that wide... I'll have to check my kit.

 

[usernumber1]

Thank you all this is quite fantastic now with the 40mm bushing

Had to get the centering cone of course. The router and the guide plate are mated perfectly. There is no gap or any slop I can detect whatsoever. The screws on the guide plate are now used just so the router does not fall out - the bushing does all the work.

I don't need any grip tape of any kind or drilling/tapping the screws. This should have been the festool solution from the beginning, the LR32 is expensive as is.
They can add a bushing and a cone just for the sake of having a quality product not that garbage centering cylinder that comes with the kit and saving a few bucks.

parts
Festool 492187 centering mandrel
Festool 486034 Template Guide for of 1000/1010 Model, 40mm