1010 router

[hoe]

I guess it is hard to please everyone but over the years i have often heard people that loved certain products and then the manufacturer made changes on those products to try to improve them and the users would say "why did they do that, i loved that product just the way it was". Damned if you do and damned if you don't. I see reviews of people eyeing more powerful and cheaper knock offs of the CSX drivers and when they get them they don't feel the same, are too heavy and don't stand up as nice. So if you bought a CSX ten years ago and just love it and someone steals it you know you can buy a new one and it will be pretty much the same except a battery that lasts a little longer

 

[hoe]

I like the router but FT needs a way to make the chip deflector and base plates tool free quick detach attach. Running screws in and out of the casting is just a not a good idea IMHO.

Fair point, but at least it allows for a template insert to be centered, unlike the 1400.

Bob

Bob is absolutely right. I do a fair amount of template work where the guide bush needs to be centred to the cutter and screws are essential. The OF1400 does not have this luxury which is a pity.

Peter

Peter can i ask a question? Does one need the 1400 to do the template work that you do?  I was thinking of purchasing the 1010 because of its light weight and versatility. I already have a 3 1/4 router in a table and a small trimmer for round overs and such but don't own a plunge router.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I'm not Peter, but I'll take a stab at this. I've had a OF-1000 for 18ish years. I've had a OF-1400 for just over a year. I love them both, but if someone came to the door and said I had to give one up, I wouldn't blink before handing over the OF-1400. A very large proportion of the time I need a hand-held router, it has to have a guide bushing attached. The OF-1400 guide bushing moves, the OF-1000 guide bushing does not. For me, accuracy trumps extra power. I can take smaller cuts, I can't make the OF-1400 guide bushing stop moving.

 

[hoe]

I'm not Peter, but I'll take a stab at this. I've had a OF-1000 for 18ish years. I've had a OF-1400 for just over a year. I love them both, but if someone came to the door and said I had to give one up, I wouldn't blink before handing over the OF-1400. A very large proportion of the time I need a hand-held router, it has to have a guide bushing attached. The OF-1400 guide bushing moves, the OF-1000 guide bushing does not. For me, accuracy trumps extra power. I can take smaller cuts, I can't make the OF-1400 guide bushing stop moving.

Thanks for that reply. Your take on it is the way i was thinking but not having owned either of these routers i could only assume. I don't do a lot of router work but have a track saw and intend to buy Peters Parf Guide to make an MFT table. I have a pocket hole jig and just thought that i might like a "go to" router with dust collection to compliment the system. I have wood worked for over 50 years and have all of the dusty power tools but after discovering the track saw and seeing all of its advantages especially on an MFT top i'm sold. I have a Mirka sander too and all of these dust free setups are great and a real game changer for me.

 

[Stone Message]

I'm not Peter, but I'll take a stab at this. I've had a OF-1000 for 18ish years. I've had a OF-1400 for just over a year. I love them both, but if someone came to the door and said I had to give one up, I wouldn't blink before handing over the OF-1400. A very large proportion of the time I need a hand-held router, it has to have a guide bushing attached. The OF-1400 guide bushing moves, the OF-1000 guide bushing does not. For me, accuracy trumps extra power. I can take smaller cuts, I can't make the OF-1400 guide bushing stop moving.

Thanks for that reply. Your take on it is the way i was thinking but not having owned either of these routers i could only assume. I don't do a lot of router work but have a track saw and intend to buy Peters Parf Guide to make an MFT table. I have a pocket hole jig and just thought that i might like a "go to" router with dust collection to compliment the system. I have wood worked for over 50 years and have all of the dusty power tools but after discovering the track saw and seeing all of its advantages especially on an MFT top i'm sold. I have a Mirka sander too and all of these dust free setups are great and a real game changer for me.

[member=75520]hoe[/member] and [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member]

Yes, I agree that the OF1010 is the one to use for accurate jig work. I keep my OF1400 in the router table where it does a great job and can take any size cutter.

The OF1010 can have a guide bush centered with a mandrel (Festool sell these) and the template work is amazingly accurate.

Cheers.

Peter

 

[DynaGlide]

My only complaint with the 1010 is every time I want to use it, the bit I want to use in it only comes in 1/2" shank. For now it's been my LR-32 router however I'll probably pick up the angle arm attachments for routing hardwood edging flush to some plywood shelves.

 

[hoe]

[/quote]

[member=75520]hoe[/member] and [member=7266]jeffinsgf[/member]

Yes, I agree that the OF1010 is the one to use for accurate jig work. I keep my OF1400 in the router table where it does a great job and can take any size cutter.

The OF1010 can have a guide bush centered with a mandrel (Festool sell these) and the template work is amazingly accurate.

Cheers.

Peter
[/quote]

Thanks Peter for the input. I am waiting patiently for Lee Valley to get your guide back in stock so i can buy one and make my MFT top.

Wayne in Canada

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have a question regarding this for what I assume is most of you....Right-handed users.
I have had the parts for my OF1010 to use it as an edge trimmer, but never needed to use them because I have a MFK700. However, a few days ago, I needed to cut deeper than the MFK700 could reach. I set up the OF1010 with a longer bit and it worked flawlessly. My question is simple
"How in the world would a right handed person do this?"
Because of the rotation of the bit, to make a conventional cut (rather than climb cut), you have to move from the right to the left across the edge. I do this with my right hand on the knob of the guide plate, supporting/triggering the router with my left, walking behind the router as it moves. This seems perfectly natural. I would think that this would be awkward for a right-handed person?
Is it? Or would you do something differently?
Come to think of it, I do the same with the MFK700? Right hand on the base plate knob and left on the machine, following the cut.

 

[Stone Message]

I have a question regarding this for what I assume is most of you....Right-handed users.
I have had the parts for my OF1010 to use it as an edge trimmer, but never needed to use them because I have a MFK700. However, a few days ago, I needed to cut deeper than the MFK700 could reach. I set up the OF1010 with a longer bit and it worked flawlessly. My question is simple
"How in the world would a right handed person do this?"
Because of the rotation of the bit, to make a conventional cut (rather than climb cut), you have to move from the right to the left across the edge. I do this with my right hand on the knob of the guide plate, supporting/triggering the router with my left, walking behind the router as it moves. This seems perfectly natural. I would think that this would be awkward for a right-handed person?
Is it? Or would you do something differently?
Come to think of it, I do the same with the MFK700? Right hand on the base plate knob and left on the machine, following the cut.

It seemed easy enough when I made this video - the viewer needs to skip towards the end of the video:


Peter

 

[woodbutcherbower]

The 1010 has a colossal design flaw = the fact that the power cable, handle and dust extraction hose all exit the machine at 90 degrees to the plane of the parallel fence. So - when attempting a job as basic as routing hinge rebates on the jambs of an in-situ door frame, you can't get the machine anywhere near the top of the frame before the aforementioned parts all hit the head rail. And reversing the position of the fence to rout from the other edge of the frame? Same problem - but everything just hits the floor instead. And what's with the ludicrous oval dust port? Terrible, flimsy, overpriced product.

 

[Coen]

The front handle can be easily removed and the oval dust port is perfect compared to other designs that have the hose mounted lower or on a plastic part further from the base..

 

[Frank-Jan]

The front handle can be easily removed and the oval dust port is perfect compared to other designs that have the hose mounted lower or on a plastic part further from the base..

? The front "handle" is the knob that sets the depth, why would you want to remove that? The oval dust port clogs more easily and can't fit a 36 mm hose.

 

[Frank-Jan]

The 1010 has a colossal design flaw = the fact that the power cable, handle and dust extraction hose all exit the machine at 90 degrees to the plane of the parallel fence. So - when attempting a job as basic as routing hinge rebates on the jambs of an in-situ door frame, you can't get the machine anywhere near the top of the frame before the aforementioned parts all hit the head rail. And reversing the position of the fence to rout from the other edge of the frame? Same problem - but everything just hits the floor instead. And what's with the ludicrous oval dust port? Terrible, flimsy, overpriced product.

The 1010 was my favourite router for routing hinge rebates in in-situ doorframes, but I always use a routing template for that. If the parallel fence was to be mounted like you suggest, it would be awkward to use on the guiderail.
My major gripe with it was that it has no quick change for the copyrings. Some templates I used on doorframes were to be used with a 17mm guide bushing and a 12mm bit, and others with a 24mm guidebushing and an 18mm bit. Having to use the centring mandrel everytime you change a guidebushing gets old really fast.

 

[Coen]

The front handle can be easily removed and the oval dust port is perfect compared to other designs that have the hose mounted lower or on a plastic part further from the base..

? The front "handle" is the knob that sets the depth, why would you want to remove that? The oval dust port clogs more easily and can't fit a 36 mm hose.

If you need the space in some corner... why not.

 

[Frank-Jan]

The front handle can be easily removed and the oval dust port is perfect compared to other designs that have the hose mounted lower or on a plastic part further from the base..

? The front "handle" is the knob that sets the depth, why would you want to remove that? The oval dust port clogs more easily and can't fit a 36 mm hose.

If you need the space in some corner... why not.

I see now that your post was a reply to the previous one about routing a door jamb with the edge guide, not a "wish" that festool removes the front handle  [wink]