106" or 118" guiderail for TS55??

Barry

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Messages
55
Which rail is recommended for use with the TS55 breaking down a 8' long piece of ply.  I read in another thread (see I used search first) that the 106 is for the TS55 and the 118 is for the TS75 but just wanted to double check to see what others are using.  TIA
 
Hi, I'm using the TS75 with 106" guide, with no problems, just leave more guide overhang at the start of the cut. What I mean is you only need about 3" of overhang at the tail end, and there is just enough room for the green ajustment knobs. on ether end.
Hope that makes sense (I just woke up, still half asleep)

Mirko
 
I am using the TS 75 with the 118" rail and its working perfect. I can plunge the blade down before the cut and after with a few inches to spare to see my cutting mark...
 
Just as Ted Miller says.

I am more comfortable starting to cut into a sheet with the saw (in my case the TS55) fully plunged, so I would prefer the 118" to rip 96", just as I would prefer 60"+ to cross cut 48".
In real life I have to use a 55" for the 48" cuts and two joined 55"'s for a 96" cut.

Regards 
 
I have the 118" rail for use with my TS55.  Either saw can benefit to some degree from the 118" rail over the 106".  To make a full-length cut (TS55) without plunging into the material, I think the rail needs to extend about 10-3/4" beyond the leading edge and around 3" beyond the end of the cut -- thus, needing a guide rail about 14" longer than the intended cut.  When swinging from the bracket on an MFT, additional length is welcome to allow room for the fence, if needed.  Here, an additional 6 or 7 inches works well for me.

The TS75 will require somewhat more length, as the base is longer.  With either saw, the limiting factor is when the gibs reach either end -- poorly stated, but the idea is to have the rail extend before the cut enough for the saw to plunge freely with the back gib on the rail, and at the end of the cut there needs to be enough rail to complete the cut with the leading gib still intact.

Or, you will need to start by taking the plunge...

Sound about right?
Corwin
 
Mirko:  Do you find you have to plunge at the start of the cut??

Corwin:  Makes sense.  Since I already have 2 55" rails I wonder if it wouldn't make more sense to just buy one of the 75" inch ones and just join it witha 55" for good and keep one 55 for cross cutting.  that would give me a long rail of about 130", which is pretty farkin long.  Can anyone think what I would be giving up by going this route??

Also how do they ship these incredibly long rails, I doubt UPS or Fedex wants to handle a box 9-10' long.

 
Barry,
I guess I failed to mention you have to plunge... but I have no problems plunging, afterall it is a "Plung Saw" ;)
Shipping is an issue, hence the hefty cost of the longer rails.
I'm thinking of getting the 75" rail, I hate useing the 108" to cut something 4 1/2 or 5' :-[

Mirko
 
Adding a 75" along with the 55" sounds like a great idea!  It had been suggested to me that the two 55" rails would handle easier than two unequal lengths, so I started with a second 55".  Recently I added a 75" and 118" and really prefer these.  With two 1080 MFTs side-by-side, the 75" is great for 4' cuts -- separate the tables with a 6" spacer/top and you're ready for some Baltic Birch Ply (60").

The two 55" rails look to be ideal for portability.  But, the 75" might be a little handier around the shop -- unless, of course, that larger rail won't go in your shop.  ???

Nice we have these choices. 

Corwin
 
Oh, forgot to add that the 75" rail was shipped in the box like the shorter rails.  But my 118" rail come in its own kind of crate -- about a 3/4"x1" wood frame around the rail with a hardboard type top and bottom stapled to the frame -- and where it is now kept on my wood rack.  Everything Festool has ever sent has arrived incredibly fast and in perfect shape -- er.. well, there was that little cord hook on the Boom Arm, but that may have happened prior to shipment, as the box had not been damaged.  So, better make that almost everything.

Corwin
 
If the 75" didn't cost disproportionately multo greenies in the UK, that's the one I would have got instead of a second 55". I would then use the 75" for 4' up to 6' and join the 75" and 55" for ripping on up to 8'.
Regards
 
Thanks for the thoughts Mirko and Corwin, I think I'm going with the 75" for now to see how it works.  Seems like a good compromise of budget/functionality.  I have to agree with Brian though, $50 more for 20" of rail is a little on the steep side but what ya gonna do.  And here I thought the hand tool slope was slippery..... ;) ;D ;D
 
Back
Top