120V Sys Power Box

[GPowers]

FWIW...just got a note back from International Configuration and they have the 70020-BLK receptacles in stock at $6.46 each.  [smile]

However, they do have a $50 minimum charge.  [sad]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Do a group buy. Still a lot cheaper, half the price, than the ones I bought.

 

[GPowers]

Greg, can you tell if the specifications on that pdf are the same for the blue socket?

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member]  You need 38mm center to center, horizontal and vertical for the mounting holes. The Outside dimensions are 50mm square.  Looks like the specks on the pdf match the screw holes not sure of outside dimensions as there are none on the PDF.

 

[Mario Turcot]

You need 38mm center to center, horizontal and vertical for the mounting holes. The Outside dimensions are 50mm square.  Looks like the specks on the pdf match the screw holes not sure of outside dimensions as there are none on the PDF.

Excellent, thank you for replying

 

[JeremyH.]

So if you don't have a distribution with built in PRCD (which is then mostly as big/bulky as a systainer, maybe even more - and which abides by all rules/regulations) you will most definitely have at least one additional power strip with PRCD built in.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Progressive Retinal Atrophy? You might have to tell us in the US what PRCD means over there...

 

[six-point socket II]

So if you don't have a distribution with built in PRCD (which is then mostly as big/bulky as a systainer, maybe even more - and which abides by all rules/regulations) you will most definitely have at least one additional power strip with PRCD built in.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Progressive Retinal Atrophy? You might have to tell us in the US what PRCD means over there...

Hi Jeremy,

Sure. Switched Protective Earth Portable Residual Current Device = PRCD-S

It's a mobile version (with the additional functionality of detecting a faulty wiring/circuit and as result not staying "on") of this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[JeremyH.]

Ah, figured but wasn't sure. In the Americas they call them GFCI.

I don't really care much for GFCI except for bathrooms and kitchens. They go bad way more than people think, and it's really confusing as to what is going on.

 

[Cheese]

I don't really care much for GFCI except for bathrooms and kitchens. They go bad way more than people think, and it's really confusing as to what is going on.

I have GFCI's on all the outside receptacles, I've had to replace 2 of them.  [sad]

I have GFCI's on the dish washer and the garbage disposal, I've had to replace both of them.  [sad]

I have GFCI's on all the runs in the basement, I've had to replace 3 of them also.  [sad]

It does seem like the newer Leviton versions are more reliable than the earlier Leviton versions.  [unsure]

 

[BJM9818]

Try the new Arc fault breakers. I’m  experiencing about a 10% failure rate right out of the box.

 

[JeremyH.]

Sensing a conspiracy for breaker "code" or "standards" of use related to investors in breaker companys...

It's not like after decades of problemless functions of good breaker (not all are equal), a bunch of cheap ones are magically going to be better for safety - under the presumption that people now suddenly just cannot resist dunking everything they plug into the wall into water........

When it comes to safety, outlawing back-stab outlets state by state has been a very positive thing. Those are a problem, not people dunking electronics into water.

 

[Sparktrician]

In all the years I worked as an electrician, I think I replaced less than 10 GFCIs.  My own "WOW Memorial PowerTainer" uses a whole-house surge suppressor from Square D to eliminate surges that often trash GFCIs. 

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi,

I've never had a GFCI fail.

Short version for Germany: they are required by law since May, 1st 1984 for all rooms having a bathtub or shower. And since February 1st 2009 for all circuits supplying receptacles/sockets/outlets up to 20A for use by "everybody" -> non-professionals.

Furthermore they have to be installed in a way that they will not interrupt complete supply -> light circuits should remain live for example.

There is no need to amend existing installations if they were according to code at some point in the past (meanin pre 1984 or 2009. However, major changes to existing circuits/supply require GFCI's to be installed according to current code.

Can't say that I've heard much complaints about faulty GFCI's. Like I said, mine work since the day they were installed.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Cheese]

In all the years I worked as an electrician, I think I replaced less than 10 GFCIs.  My own "WOW Memorial PowerTainer" uses a whole-house surge suppressor from Square D to eliminate surges that often trash GFCIs.

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]
Thanks for that post. If I understand the HEPD80 correctly, it needs to be placed/connected as close to the main lugs as possible and then it will protect both legs of the system, is that correct?

Two of the GFCI's were knocked out because of lightning strikes and two others were taken out by an intermittent neutral from tree branches. That allowed each leg to vary any where from 50 to 190 volts and both legs varied constantly as the wind blew.

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]
Thanks for that post. If I understand the HEPD80 correctly, it needs to be placed/connected as close to the main lugs as possible and then it will protect both legs of the system, is that correct?

Correct. 

 

[GPowers]

Those push sockets are garbage. You're soo much better off with the replacements that have screws.

The socket in the photo is the Festool 220 volt UK one. The blue 110 volt USA ones, used in the mod, do have a screw on connections.

 

[JeremyH.]

In all the years I worked as an electrician, I think I replaced less than 10 GFCIs.  My own "WOW Memorial PowerTainer" uses a whole-house surge suppressor from Square D to eliminate surges that often trash GFCIs.

Panel mount surge suppression is good. But to be very safe for something of value you want an end device as well. SurgeX is the best thing I've ever seen (and I've seen patents etc).

Germany... one issue for any audiophile like my self is that we run individual lines for the stereo, and we use specialized sockets that are better. I guess that isn't an "everyone" use? Stereo only.

 

[six-point socket II]

Germany... one issue for any audiophile like my self is that we run individual lines for the stereo, and we use specialized sockets that are better. I guess that isn't an "everyone" use? Stereo only.

Hi!

Well, even an audiophile is still "everyone"

BUT, we have a say in Germany: No plaintiff, no judge.

So my best guess would be that if you either do it yourself or find an electrician who will do it for you, your line(s) for the high-end stereo will have no GFCI.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Sparktrician]

In all the years I worked as an electrician, I think I replaced less than 10 GFCIs.  My own "WOW Memorial PowerTainer" uses a whole-house surge suppressor from Square D to eliminate surges that often trash GFCIs.

Panel mount surge suppression is good. But to be very safe for something of value you want an end device as well. SurgeX is the best thing I've ever seen (and I've seen patents etc).

Germany... one issue for any audiophile like my self is that we run individual lines for the stereo, and we use specialized sockets that are better. I guess that isn't an "everyone" use? Stereo only.

Another item few people consider, especially when using a fiber-supplied internet connection (FiOS) is surge protection for the Ethernet connection from the ONT.  I have to give myself a dope-slap in that regard.  Last May we had a thunder/lightning storm here, and one bolt of lightning hit the streetlight in front of my house.  The streetlight exploded and blew glass all over the street and my front yard.  No electrical-only appliances were damaged as I have surge protection on my power feed to the house, but strangely, all my routers and switches were destroyed, as well as my TV.  What they had in common was the Ethernet connection.  Many years ago I took a graduate-level course on grounding, bonding and shielding.  As I evaluated the scenario in light of that training, it occurred to me that although the data connection is via glass fiber, there is a parallel ground line as part of the fiber feed line.  The light pole that got hit is 10 feet from the FiOS distribution box.  I suspect that radiated surge energy traveled down the ground line in the FiOS line that feeds my house.  Lightning energy does some REALLY strange things.  As I dug into it further, I found that the FiOS ground line was not commoned with the house cold water ground.  That has since been rectified with a good run of solid copper directly from the ONT to cold water ground.  Additionally, I have installed an Ethernet surge suppressor in the feed from the ONT to my edge router for better protection. 

 

[JeremyH.]

Willy, thanks for that description. It's actually something pertinent to a project I am working on [eek]

 

[Trevin]

Just finished with my Sys Power Box!
Thanks for the ideas guys.
Trevin

 

[GPowers]

Nice too have a 3D printer