120V Sys Power Box
- Thread starter Dick Mahany
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Cheese
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Well I'll be the 3rd doofus to admit to purchasing a Sys PowerHub from Amazon.de. [embarassed] [embarassed]
Received the box within 4-5 days of ordering it from Germany. [big grin]
Ordered the black outlets yesterday from International Configurations, $5.41 each. They're also IP54 instead of IP44, a nice bonus. [cool]
Received the box within 4-5 days of ordering it from Germany. [big grin]
Ordered the black outlets yesterday from International Configurations, $5.41 each. They're also IP54 instead of IP44, a nice bonus. [cool]
Cheese
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Scorpion said:
70020-BLK-NS...I decided to purchase 10 of them as I may also use them in an outdoor application. So bottom line, $54.10 + $15.97 for shipping. The receptacles are in stock, I ordered them on Monday and they shipped on Tuesday. [smile]
I'm going to move the charger for the CXS to the inside of the SYS PowerHub along with a charger for my iPhone. Sweet...can't wait.
Cheese
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Scorpion said:
In the summer I work outside all day long. The black iPhone is always an issue because if left in the sunshine it gets so hot that it will shut itself down. Now I'll be able to keep it in the SYS PowerHub out of harms way from tools and sunshine while at the same time maintaining its charge level.
Cheese
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Greg Powers said:
Yeah, I decided to purchase 10 of them because I may look at incorporating some of them into an aluminum fence system. It'd be a lot cleaner than installing separate electrical boxes, box covers, GFCI's, mounting posts, driving the posts into the ground...yada, yada, yada.
Thanks for the original inspiration...
...I think I'm going to like it. [smile][member=44099]Cheese[/member] - What are we looking at here? One image shows two black receptacles, side by side; one with a matte finish and one with a glossy finish. Another image shows the front face of the SYS-PH with the matte receptacles installed. According to the embossing/molding on the spring loaded cover that's mounted to the glossy receptacle, it is rated IP54. Are the glossy receptacles that ones that came preinstalled in the SYS-PH and the matte receptacles the 5-15 110V ones that you refitted? If so, aren't both versions rated IP54? If not, what am I missing?
Cheese
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TinyShop said:
You’re not missing anything this is all on me. [embarassed]
I saw some photos of the Festool receptacle a few years back and they had IP 44 marked on them. When I opened this SYS-PowerHub up it’s also marked IP 44 so I assumed they were using the same receptacles. I just yanked the Euro receptacles and replaced them with the US version and then took the pictures. Nice to know they’re now IP 54.
The US receptacle is on the left with the rubber gasket directly above it, the Euro’s are on the right.
Thanks
for noting the error. [smile]
Cheese
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Bohdan said:
Correcto...my first defense will be to plug the CT directly into the outlet, I’ll use the PowerHub as an expensive power cord. [eek]
I like that because I have several older Festool tools that do not have plug-it cords and I need to use several of them intermittently.
I'd like to include a thermal cutout switch:
...in my 120V DIY version (along the lines of what is included in the wiring of an actual SYS-PH). Any thoughts on the suggested specs for such a device? They seem to be rated by temperature and most I'm looking at are "normal-close" (which, I'm assuming, means that in the absence of power the switch opens, thus breaking the circuit). Expected loads are those produced by a TS 75, an OF 1400 and other common 120V powered hand tools. What temp rating should I seek?
Alternatively, what would be the pros/cons of instead using a resettable thermal circuit breaker, something like this:
These types of devices don't seem to be rated by temperature but instead appear to be rated only by voltage and amperage. I assume, then, that I'd simply need a switch rated for 120V and 15A (as opposed to some other spec that I am unclear about)?
Cost for the former is about twice that of the latter which leads me to believe that perhaps the thermal cutout is a more durable device. But, again, I'm just guessing.
...in my 120V DIY version (along the lines of what is included in the wiring of an actual SYS-PH). Any thoughts on the suggested specs for such a device? They seem to be rated by temperature and most I'm looking at are "normal-close" (which, I'm assuming, means that in the absence of power the switch opens, thus breaking the circuit). Expected loads are those produced by a TS 75, an OF 1400 and other common 120V powered hand tools. What temp rating should I seek?
Alternatively, what would be the pros/cons of instead using a resettable thermal circuit breaker, something like this:
These types of devices don't seem to be rated by temperature but instead appear to be rated only by voltage and amperage. I assume, then, that I'd simply need a switch rated for 120V and 15A (as opposed to some other spec that I am unclear about)?
Cost for the former is about twice that of the latter which leads me to believe that perhaps the thermal cutout is a more durable device. But, again, I'm just guessing.
The thermal overload switch has to be attached to the device that it is protecting. When the device gets hot it switches off and when it cools it switches back on.
The resetable thermal circuit breaker gets hot when the current thru it reaches it's rated value and then it switches off until you reset it.
The second one is the one that you want.
The resetable thermal circuit breaker gets hot when the current thru it reaches it's rated value and then it switches off until you reset it.
The second one is the one that you want.
[member=36526]Bohdan[/member] - Huh. Then I wonder why Festool opts for the non-resettable kind?
It would seem that being able to simply reset a breaker (versus having to wait around for something to cool down) would be ideal. Maybe the Euro-regulations require that kind of overload device (and don't allow the resettable kind)?
It would seem that being able to simply reset a breaker (versus having to wait around for something to cool down) would be ideal. Maybe the Euro-regulations require that kind of overload device (and don't allow the resettable kind)?
From the looks of the pics of the power box Festool actually use a resetable one as nothing would have gotten hot.
The non resetable type is used when the tool has to cool down from overheating so that it doesn't let out the magic smoke such as in the TS55. If they had one in the Kapex there wouldn't a regular requirement for new armatures.
The non resetable type is used when the tool has to cool down from overheating so that it doesn't let out the magic smoke such as in the TS55. If they had one in the Kapex there wouldn't a regular requirement for new armatures.
