1400 Router Pros and Cons

[Steven Owen]

I have narrowed my choice of routers to 3 Routers, P. C. 892, P. C. 7518, or Triton 2-1/4 H.P, any suggestions to help narrow my choices.

Router Table 1st choice, Incra Wonder Fence With Positioner with Incra Lift, I like JessEm however it appears from reviews Customer Service is not a strong point after the sale.

Thanks

PC 7518 would be my choice for a router that will remain mounted in a router table.

He is looking for 230V though or yeah i agree the PC has proven itself for years, though I prefer my Milwaukee in the table over it.

I thought the 7519 was single speed not making it ideal for a router table.  People make an argument against the Milwaukee that it cannot quickly change collets.  Granted, it’s not a great idea to use anything less than 1/2 inch bits on a 3.5 HP router.

I’m surprised there isn’t a 230v version the the variable speed 7518.

 

[Holmz]

...

Why would anyone waste a pricey Mafell on a router table?  It would be cheaper to put a powerful motor in a lift and put the Mafell to use on challenging free tasks where it really shines.

Do you missed the numerous posts about the PC or the Trition as being good choices for a table?

Sometimes it is not about cost, but other factors.
...
Luckily most of my current needs are satisfied with the 8-mm bits. But I have some doors coming up, and this thread parallels the same chin scratchings.

It wasn’t meant as an insult.  I was doing the math in my head for price of a Mafell or OF 2200 and a solid router table, you’re coming pretty close to the price of a decent quality Shaper.

Wasn't taken as an insult...
I do not have room for a shaper and router.
I do not know much about shapers, but I made some door with a router once, and getting a monster router seems to make sense... but as you pointed out, maybe it does not.

 

[Steven Owen]

...

Why would anyone waste a pricey Mafell on a router table?  It would be cheaper to put a powerful motor in a lift and put the Mafell to use on challenging free tasks where it really shines.

Do you missed the numerous posts about the PC or the Trition as being good choices for a table?

Sometimes it is not about cost, but other factors.
...
Luckily most of my current needs are satisfied with the 8-mm bits. But I have some doors coming up, and this thread parallels the same chin scratchings.

It wasn’t meant as an insult.  I was doing the math in my head for price of a Mafell or OF 2200 and a solid router table, you’re coming pretty close to the price of a decent quality Shaper.

Wasn't taken as an insult...
I do not have room for a shaper and router.
I do not know much about shapers, but I made some door with a router once, and getting a monster router seems to make sense... but as you pointed out, maybe it does not.

It would always come down to how you’re using the router.  If you’re pushing through extremely hard exotics it may make sense to use the Mafell in the table.

We have a smaller variety of exotics available in Canada because some exotics can’t handle our climate or and some exotics simply cost too much to sell in our market.  A Milwaukee 5625 mounted in a router lift can handle any of he wood types readily available in Canada.  A 5625 and Incra mount cost about $850 Canadian.  That’s hardly a budget solution.

 

[Holmz]

You also have 110v and +1 as the country code... which means that a PC is also an option.

 

[Steven Owen]

You also have 110v and +1 as the country code... which means that a PC is also an option.

I don’t like the newer PC’s that have been rolling off the assembly line in recent years.  Stanley has been on a cost cutting spree trying to get more PC tools into Lowes and Home Depot stores.  The PC bearings are very low quality. 

 

[ericvancronk]

If I had to buy a PC7518 two times, it’s still less than the OF2200.

For table mounted routing, the 7518 is a beast

I have 2 in my shop and just put together a bench top Kreg with masterlift 2 and the 7518. Just under 1K all in and is perfect for portability.

You also have 110v and +1 as the country code... which means that a PC is also an option.

I don’t like the newer PC’s that have been rolling off the assembly line in recent years.  Stanley has been on a cost cutting spree trying to get more PC tools into Lowes and Home Depot stores.  The PC bearings are very low quality.

 

[bnaboatbuilder]

People talk about router lifts often. For many quality routers, a lift is not even needed. A Milwaukee 5625 fixed base permits above table top height adjustments. Same goes for the Bosch MRF23 that I use. More than enough accurate to use a 1/8" t-shank hex wrench for height changes.

A $200-300 router (with 2-1/4 to 3-1/4 hp) screwed to the bottom of a piece of plywood, mounted on your choice of base is the most simple, cost effective router table system needed. A basic fence and miter slot (optional and not needed for a lot of work) take care of most everything. Anything else only aids in production or ego. I get a kick out of the $1000-1500 router table systems with lifts and the owners barely make a single thing.

There's this misperception that a router table needs everything that Rockler or Jessem sells.

 

[egmiii]

I'd agree that you could do almost anything without a fancy lift or fence. But many of us woodwork for a hobby, which ideally brings some happiness and reduces stress. Setting up a cope and stick bit for cabinet doors or a lock miter is far easier when you can make super fine adjustments with the click of a dial. A guy with 20-30 years experience could clean my clock with his plywood table and fixed base router, but I have only a few hours a week in the shop, so unfortunately I have to pay what I have to pay to make up for my lack of skill. Just my opinion.

 

[ericvancronk]

A lift may not be more precise and (or) improve the craftsmanship, however, it sure does speed up production. Especially if you only have a single router station.

After using a lift, I would never ever want to go back to adjusting through the table or changing bits using a fixed base. That’s just me.

People talk about router lifts often. For many quality routers, a lift is not even needed. A Milwaukee 5625 fixed base permits above table top height adjustments. Same goes for the Bosch MRF23 that I use. More than enough accurate to use a 1/8" t-shank hex wrench for height changes.

A $200-300 router (with 2-1/4 to 3-1/4 hp) screwed to the bottom of a piece of plywood, mounted on your choice of base is the most simple, cost effective router table system needed. A basic fence and miter slot (optional and not needed for a lot of work) take care of most everything. Anything else only aids in production or ego. I get a kick out of the $1000-1500 router table systems with lifts and the owners barely make a single thing.

There's this misperception that a router table needs everything that Rockler or Jessem sells.