2 Systainer Deep Sysport ...

[ben_r_]

RobBob -
No ... I used 3/4" Birch Plywood sides, top, and bottom, 1/4" MDF back. Edge band with hot melt adhesive backed banding on exposed edges. My reason for choosing plywood was I wanted extra holding power for the slide screws. I used 6 screws for each slide into the cabinet walls and the same number into the draw sides. The slides are full extension with a 100# rating. (A little heads up: the ratings giving by the manufacturers I looked into were: 100# at 18" extension.) The drawers where made with 1/2" Poplar sides and back, 3/4 Poplar fronts, 1/2" plywood bottoms. I also ran a "divider" from side to side to add stiffness and extra bottom support. Drawer bottoms were routed, with 4 depressions, to capture the feet under the systainer boxes; that keeps them from moving around and also minimizes the height of the cabinet.

How did you get the light grey coloring on the sides of the plywood sheets? Is that just paint or did you laminate them with Formica or something similar?

 

[GarryMartin]

How did you do the cutouts for the hand holds? I currently have some stand off handles on my miter saw station, but I'm getting tired of hooking my self on the end.

Sorry [member=48144]johnesher[/member] I missed your question for some reason.

The hand holds are cut using a router bit I purchased from Wealden Tools in the UK. It's a good size to work with 18mm material. Here it's shown side by side with the Festool cutter which was used for the upper cupboards with 22mm material.

[attachimg=1]

And this is the profile it creates on 18mm material.

[attachimg=2]

I use a jig and the MFS to position the drawer fronts, then the cutter with a copy ring on the OF 1010 to cut them.

[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]

On the latest set of drawers, I changed the handle position for the lower drawer to the top of the cabinet; I found reaching down to almost ground level on the previous drawers was not optimal. I'll go back and change those at some point.

[attachimg=5]

 

[grbmds]

[member=29189]Jcwoodshop[/member] Referencing your April post about your 2 drawer deep systainer, when you said you could access the drawers from all sides I assume you meant 3 sides; the front and each side. Correct?

 

[Bob D.]

That makes for a nice, clean look on the drawer fronts Garry, I like it.

 

[hevnbnd]

RobBob -
No ... I used 3/4" Birch Plywood sides, top, and bottom, 1/4" MDF back. Edge band with hot melt adhesive backed banding on exposed edges. My reason for choosing plywood was I wanted extra holding power for the slide screws. I used 6 screws for each slide into the cabinet walls and the same number into the draw sides. The slides are full extension with a 100# rating. (A little heads up: the ratings giving by the manufacturers I looked into were: 100# at 18" extension.) The drawers where made with 1/2" Poplar sides and back, 3/4 Poplar fronts, 1/2" plywood bottoms. I also ran a "divider" from side to side to add stiffness and extra bottom support. Drawer bottoms were routed, with 4 depressions, to capture the feet under the systainer boxes; that keeps them from moving around and also minimizes the height of the cabinet.

mddharma-
I left my LR32 in its box this time. I've used it before and love it, however for this build, to minimize clearance between systainer tops and tray bottoms, the slides were space to achieve minimum clearance. But your right about using additional slide support. I used 6 screws for each slide into the cabinet and 6 screws into each drawer side.

nelic-
If I had used a common wall for side by side systainers that would have been a concern.

Billedis-
Just hand sketches. I can pull together the overall dimension. Most dimensions were based on the size of the MFT and the number of systainers I needed to store, and an acceptable top height. I wanted a slightly higher work surface then my MFT so this arrangement suited my work habits and maximized storage ...  but I'll get them up on the board ASAP. Thanks for asking 

ScotF-
Same as above as far as plans. The casters are from Lee Valley H-D Polyurethane Swivel Caster w/Brake 2" x 2-1/2" item #00K2121. I used 4 under each storage column for a total of 8 casters. Their rated at appx 90# each so that gave me plenty margin. They make it easy enough to move the cabinet around, and I rarely use the brakes, the weight of the cabinet keeps it in position ... and Thank you.

Vondawg-
Very nice!
Agree, you have to play with the spacing a little to be sure you can open the front most systainer lid, but there is room, especially with the 28" full extension slides. I've left all my green handles on but I'm playing with the idea of just taking off the handles on the rear systainers an storing them behind the box ... but for now I'm twisting handles to open the systainers

Thanks all for comments and interest ... I'll get dimensions up here ASAP

Thanks for the information. Where did you get your recessed pulls from?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=75582]hevnbnd[/member] Garry is from the UK and they have access to a lot of Festool products that we cannot get here in the US.
There are other companies that make finger pull bits though. CMT, Freud, Amana, Whiteside, etc.

 

[gunnyr]

That looks like the same profile as the Shaper Drawer Pull Bit.  You can order it directly or buy it from the dealer of your choice.  Many of the Festool dealers also carry Shaper Origin and its accessories.