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deepcreek
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- Apr 20, 2009
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Try applying firm pressure on the fence knob and grasping the Domino around the back of the motor where the plug-it cord attaches.
I had alignment problems when first using the tool and spoke to the Festool USA specialist. He gave me this advice and it's been smooth sailing ever since.
I had alignment problems when first using the tool and spoke to the Festool USA specialist. He gave me this advice and it's been smooth sailing ever since.
tjbnwi
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- May 12, 2008
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- 7,116
You are using dust extraction?
The cross stops have given me problems. Don't recall what I did to resolve the issues.
The Domino does take practice and getting used to. For the project I'm currently working on I cut 1300+ mortises over the last couple of days, only 1 was off.
Tom
The cross stops have given me problems. Don't recall what I did to resolve the issues.
The Domino does take practice and getting used to. For the project I'm currently working on I cut 1300+ mortises over the last couple of days, only 1 was off.
Tom
PaulMarcel
Member
The skewed question was one thing on my mind: my original pin fence needs the fence locked upright before adjusting and locking the height or it is sometimes slightly skewed. That's not your issue, but I thought I'd mention it in case you want to experiment.
Something I used to do when I first got the Domino is screw up reference surfaces; it's probably why I babble about that too much in videos.
Grab your MDF and try making some joints. The fence is always on the "show" side; show sides should end up flush. If you draw a quick pencil line from one board to the other over a joint, the pencil marks indicate the show sides that will be flush. What I did on a storage cabinet when I first got the Domino is use the pins and cross-stops to march across the side of a board. Problem was I assumed since they were properly spaced from one edge, they were correct. I needed them spaced from that edge and referenced from the correct show side. That cabinet became about 15mm narrower than planned
You don't need to use pencil marks, but using that description to make is clearer how the reference surfaces are chosen.
For practicing on 18mm (3/4") MDF, set your Domino's thickness gauge to 20mm; that will place the mortise off-center. Now, if you get the reference surfaces mixed up, you'll get a pronounced step. I do that intentionally so while doing a glue-up, it is really obvious if I flipped when I shouldda flopped a board.
It does take practice, but you should be getting better joints than that pretty quickly. Oh, common problem I also had: board is on the bench and I try to mortise into the side... except the height setting is such that the bottom of the Domino needs to go further down than the bench surface (make sense?). Clamp the board so the end you are mortising is off the bench. Let's not talk about how many times I did that.
Something I used to do when I first got the Domino is screw up reference surfaces; it's probably why I babble about that too much in videos.
Grab your MDF and try making some joints. The fence is always on the "show" side; show sides should end up flush. If you draw a quick pencil line from one board to the other over a joint, the pencil marks indicate the show sides that will be flush. What I did on a storage cabinet when I first got the Domino is use the pins and cross-stops to march across the side of a board. Problem was I assumed since they were properly spaced from one edge, they were correct. I needed them spaced from that edge and referenced from the correct show side. That cabinet became about 15mm narrower than planned
You don't need to use pencil marks, but using that description to make is clearer how the reference surfaces are chosen.
For practicing on 18mm (3/4") MDF, set your Domino's thickness gauge to 20mm; that will place the mortise off-center. Now, if you get the reference surfaces mixed up, you'll get a pronounced step. I do that intentionally so while doing a glue-up, it is really obvious if I flipped when I shouldda flopped a board.
It does take practice, but you should be getting better joints than that pretty quickly. Oh, common problem I also had: board is on the bench and I try to mortise into the side... except the height setting is such that the bottom of the Domino needs to go further down than the bench surface (make sense?). Clamp the board so the end you are mortising is off the bench. Let's not talk about how many times I did that.
sancho57
Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2011
- Messages
- 7,089
What Paul said.
I was having the same issues. Still do. I found for me it was the reference pieces. Once I figured out how to lay the pieces out for referance it got a little easier.
As Ive said all along, its a great tool. But there Definitely is a learning curve to it.
I was having the same issues. Still do. I found for me it was the reference pieces. Once I figured out how to lay the pieces out for referance it got a little easier.
As Ive said all along, its a great tool. But there Definitely is a learning curve to it.
Christopher Fitch
Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 141
I'd suggest making sure something is not slipping. I've had that issue a few rare times.
Also, here's a tip for mistakes: if you really *have* to keep a piece with a domino hole cut in a bad spot, just glue a domino in the hole, let it dry and saw it flush. Then try again...
Also, here's a tip for mistakes: if you really *have* to keep a piece with a domino hole cut in a bad spot, just glue a domino in the hole, let it dry and saw it flush. Then try again...
Birdhunter
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- Jun 16, 2012
- Messages
- 4,145
Without seeing the problem, it is difficult to come up with a solution. Can you post some pictures?
I experienced a learning curve with the Domino even after watching Halfinchshy's excellent videos. His videos are light years better than the manual.
I've adopted the technique of pencil marking the planned tenon locations on both reference surfaces. One piece of the structure to be joined gets exact size holes. The other piece gets the next size wider hole. I put a checkmark by each of the planned wider holes to remind me to reset (only while the Domino is running!) the hole width.
The wider holes allow for some side-to-side wiggle room so I don't have to get the holes perfectly aligned as I would if all the holes were exact size.
Pencil marks come off with a light wipe of alcohol.
I also had trouble getting the vertical alignment perfect when I started. there was enough vertical variation that the two pieces would not come together. I had two problems.
The first was that I was getting some slippage from the fence. Each hole was a little lower than the preceding hole. The fence has to be locked down tight. The perfect solution is the Domiplate in my opinion. No slippage there.
The second problem was the way I was holding the Domino. I wasn't applying enough pressure to the knob/front of the Domino and I was getting some tilt in my holes. I apply equal moderate pressure to the knob and to the barrel. I give the Domino a little side-to-side wiggle to be sure it is seated against the cutting surface.
I also found that I had to be really careful to have the reference surface flush with the cutting surface. If you are cutting through edge banding and the banding isn't perfectly flush with the reference surface, you can introduce vertical variations.
I use a lot of blue tape in my joinery. I mark reference surface, top, bottom, left, right, ... every possible aspect gets blue tape with some sort of information. I find all this information largely prevents dumb screw-ups and helps me come back into a project if I've been called away for a time.
I experienced a learning curve with the Domino even after watching Halfinchshy's excellent videos. His videos are light years better than the manual.
I've adopted the technique of pencil marking the planned tenon locations on both reference surfaces. One piece of the structure to be joined gets exact size holes. The other piece gets the next size wider hole. I put a checkmark by each of the planned wider holes to remind me to reset (only while the Domino is running!) the hole width.
The wider holes allow for some side-to-side wiggle room so I don't have to get the holes perfectly aligned as I would if all the holes were exact size.
Pencil marks come off with a light wipe of alcohol.
I also had trouble getting the vertical alignment perfect when I started. there was enough vertical variation that the two pieces would not come together. I had two problems.
The first was that I was getting some slippage from the fence. Each hole was a little lower than the preceding hole. The fence has to be locked down tight. The perfect solution is the Domiplate in my opinion. No slippage there.
The second problem was the way I was holding the Domino. I wasn't applying enough pressure to the knob/front of the Domino and I was getting some tilt in my holes. I apply equal moderate pressure to the knob and to the barrel. I give the Domino a little side-to-side wiggle to be sure it is seated against the cutting surface.
I also found that I had to be really careful to have the reference surface flush with the cutting surface. If you are cutting through edge banding and the banding isn't perfectly flush with the reference surface, you can introduce vertical variations.
I use a lot of blue tape in my joinery. I mark reference surface, top, bottom, left, right, ... every possible aspect gets blue tape with some sort of information. I find all this information largely prevents dumb screw-ups and helps me come back into a project if I've been called away for a time.
Here is what I have experienced:
On the "face" there is two rubber spots that seems to have a function of securing the machine when mortising begins. It however is so effective that if you do not have the fence with the handle placed accurately and completely parallel to your workpiece when the face meets the workpiece it will keep a small gap in the corner between the face and the fence. This is difficult to see by eye because the machine and your arm is in the way, but shows when I measure the distance from the mortice to the surface with a digital calliper.
To not have this error, I find that aproaching the workpiece with the Domino in the before mentioned two hand grip from a low angle slightly below the workpiece, catching it with the face first and then tilt the fence with the handle firmly down, will give you consistent results.
Failing to use this approach will give me all sorts of deviations in the measures. Even when I try carefully to slide it in with the fence in full contact. Any minor ajustment to allign the machine to a line will allmost certantly give me an error in the placement if not "put in" from below, in order to finetune the placement, do not "Wiggle" the the machine sideways when first set correct to the workpiece.
Thomas
On the "face" there is two rubber spots that seems to have a function of securing the machine when mortising begins. It however is so effective that if you do not have the fence with the handle placed accurately and completely parallel to your workpiece when the face meets the workpiece it will keep a small gap in the corner between the face and the fence. This is difficult to see by eye because the machine and your arm is in the way, but shows when I measure the distance from the mortice to the surface with a digital calliper.
To not have this error, I find that aproaching the workpiece with the Domino in the before mentioned two hand grip from a low angle slightly below the workpiece, catching it with the face first and then tilt the fence with the handle firmly down, will give you consistent results.
Failing to use this approach will give me all sorts of deviations in the measures. Even when I try carefully to slide it in with the fence in full contact. Any minor ajustment to allign the machine to a line will allmost certantly give me an error in the placement if not "put in" from below, in order to finetune the placement, do not "Wiggle" the the machine sideways when first set correct to the workpiece.
Thomas
