32mm System: Tall (2300mm+) Cabinets....

leftistelf

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May 24, 2008
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About to spring for the 2424 hole-y guide rail, but I got to thinking about the approach to side panels on large cabinets.

Typically, bottom and top panels fit between the side panels. The adjustable legs go under the bottom panel. The side panels are attached to the bottom/top with dominos.

However, when building a tall cabinet that will have some weight in it, I'm thinking that the side panels might be best positioned on top of the bottom panel, so the bottom panel can support and transfer the weight on the side panels.

That gets me out of the 32mm system and makes me think that the long rail might not work as designed (16 up and out on the end tops, right?).

Any thoughts? Am I needlessly worrying about weight? Would the long rail be adjustable for a bottom panel solution that is different?

Garage install, need to use legs to keep cabinet off floor (it gets wet on the area) so I can't use a 2x4 base. 18mm ply.

 
Just finished building 2400 high garage cabinets. Have them resting on 2x4 flat frame I built and 4x4 legs as the garage is slanted 1" per 8'. Just screw your legs into the 2x4 support. You cabinet sides rest on the frame. You will also need to have a shelf that is either screwed/domino or Rafix in halfway up to keep the cabinets tight.
 
When I need to run the bottom panel under the sides and still use the lr32, I simply place a piece of scrap plywood (of the same thickness as bottom panel) between the lr end spacer and the end of the side panel. A quick clamp on the rail once aligned keeps the rail in place if the spacer block falls out.

Also, you could use pressure treated 2x4 underneath in a wet area.
 
Euh, you hole the panels before you assemble the cabinets. Also; you can easily adjust the positioning of the rails to offset for anything you want. The provided parts in the LR-32 systainer allow for 16mm and 22.5mm offsets, but you can easily put something in between. Or start a few mm 'off' compared to usual.
 
Consider cutting the side panels to the exact increment on the 32mm system, then line bore the side panels using the LR 32 system.  If you choose to set the sides on the bottom (not a bad idea), once the line-boring is complete, cut 18mm off the bottom edge of the sides and back.  Be sure to use blue tape to mark the panels so you don't shorten the wrong end.  Remember, you'll likely be routing in a stopped track for the cabinet back.

Suggest you consider using Ikea's Sektion legs to keep the cabinets off the deck. 

You might also consider using a system of french cleats to hang the cabinets to keep the bottoms off the deck.  I prefer to use a cleat system with cleats at 12", 30", 48", 66" and 84" above the deck.  The resultant flexibility is wonderful. 
 
[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] If you had a tall cabinet like the OP suggests and planned to put heavy things in it, would one french cleat be enough?  Or would you put more than one?  Or are you screwing the cabinet into the wall (more like you would install a kitchen cabinet on the wall)?  Curious...I would like to do this at my house too.  :)
 
TealaG said:
[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] If you had a tall cabinet like the OP suggests and planned to put heavy things in it, would one french cleat be enough?  Or would you put more than one?  Or are you screwing the cabinet into the wall (more like you would install a kitchen cabinet on the wall)?  Curious...I would like to do this at my house too.  :)

I would be using a system of french cleats, minimum of two per cabinet, spaced as mentioned.  A tall cabinet such as the OP suggested would get the full five cleats, and likely would get the feet for additional support.
 
I did a rolling cabinet for my benchtop drill press.  It was my first project with the LR32 system.  I did a variation of what [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] mentioned.  I completed my boring on the cabinet sides, but instead of cutting the sides shorter, I rabbeted the sides to set on top of the base.  I thought the weight could be an issue and have done the rabbeted bottom on shop cabinets for years with 100% success so far.
 
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