35mm euro hinge drilling

[fcraven]

I have a potential client who needs around 150 35mm holes drilled in existing cabinets for European hinges (there are also a couple places that can have holes drilled for shelves). This might-could be a good excuse to buy an LR 32-SYS. 

Has any one used the hole drilling set to do this, or would you recommend a dedicated 35mm boring jig like the one from Blum?

--oh, and if I get the LR32-SYS I'll also have an reason to get a Festool router. ;D

 

[Per Swenson]

Hi Ya,

I certainly wouldn't want to begrudge a Festool purchase,

but for a lot less then the blum guide you can get this one.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32263&cat=1,180,42311

Now of course nothing is perfect and Lee Valleys bit that is included

with this jig is not my cup o soup. I switched it out with a 35 mm flat bottomed

forstner. Then again thats me.

Besides that I can't complain, well I did and wrote a note.....

But oh well.

Per

 

[Per Swenson]

Sorry, for those who like pics and don't need to go and look...

this is it.

P.

 

[Tinker]

I have the 32 LS.  For driling shelf holes, it works fine and is very repeatable if you do the setup of the stops correctly.  If you forget to think thru what you are doing with the stops, it can mean a piece of wood for another project.  Been There, Done That.

For doing the 35 mm hinge holes, and have them come where you want them, you need to design your own system for the stops, or design the doors to fit the system.  After looking over the tool/jig that Per is showing, i think I like that better for the hinges as you can set your hole anywhere. 

I have not used my LS 32 for doing Euro hinges on any project yet, so don't take this post as the voice of experience. I have used it to do the holes on some scrap pieces, but exact placement was not necessary.  The process was repeatable within the limits of the guide bar and the pieces I worked with.
Tinker

 

[Lou Miller]

Are the 35mm holes going into the panels for the carcass, or are they going into the door? I only use Blum hinges and the holes go into the door. I just take the door to the drill press. I use a fence and a stop block. It couldn't be any easier.

I love the LR-32 for drilling shelf holes. However, if the cabinet is already assembled, you probably won't be able to fit the rail inside the cabinet. The shortest rail is 42", so unless your cabinets are bigger than that, you'd have to cut the rail to make it fit inside.

 

[fcraven]

This is a kitchen remodel with all new hardware, hinges, appliances, paint, counter top, etc.  Everything is face framed so the hinges will most likely be a Blum Compact hinge (33 maybe). All 35mm holes will be made in existing doors (and a couple new doors) after paint and before the decorative glaze.

Shelf hole drilling is minimal--almost optional--and restricted to a a couple new cabinets which will be retrofitted into the old. (currently all the cabinets have dadoed metal shelf racks  --but they work

I ask about this because I see a good reason (excuse) to extend my Festool capabilities, and the LR 32-sys comes with the 35mm bit--seemingly to be used for boring holes for hinges--but I haven't seen much on the use of the 35mm bit. John Lucas mentions http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fest-17.htm it works well but that's all I could find.  I can easily see a set up on my MFT to into which I could set the doors and quickly bore the holes.

I like the concept of a dedicated jig, like Blum's. This would give me the option to use the three hole pattern too, but that can set you back a couple hundred dollars...and I would rather help out Bob.  . I also like the chip-be-gone feature of using the festool system. Most of the jigs leave the user with the opportunity to enjoy cleanly cut chips.

 

[Ted Miller]

I have used Rocklers jig for years for 35mm...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10940&filter=concealed hinge jig

 

[art stratemeyer]

For years I've used the Blum portable jig ( not the bench top machine ) ... clamps on to the door edge and you can drill the three holes needed with a hand drill and driver bits that come with the jig.  The Lee Valley is similar.  Nice thing about the Blum is that it has rotatable "flats" to set your offset to any of the standard Blum offsets.  I think the thing runs around $180 these days.

 

[stvrowe]

I had previously purchased a Eurojig from Woodworkers supply several years ago.  As I recall, this was about $30.  Bits and stop collars cost more.  It looked like a nice jig but I had quite a few hinge holes to bore so I ended up returning it unused.  I ended up getting a Gannomat Red Barron hinge boring machine from my hinge supplier for about $380 including carbide tipped bits.  The hinge supplier told me it was sold at his cost and he only wanted to make money selling hinges. The machine is Austrian made and single phase.  The 35mm cup and 8mm holes are drilled in one operation.  This machine included the magnetic press so you can use the press-in hinges and saves boatloads of time.  With the amount of hinges you may bore, it is worth checking with your cabinet hinge supplier and see what type of deals they are offering.
Steve

 

[brandon.nickel]

I tried to use the 1400 router and the 35mm bit from the LR32 to drill my hinge holes on my cabinet project.  The router turns the bit so fast that it really just burns the wood and won't drill a hole.  I ended up using my DeWalt corded drill for the 35mm holes and the LR32 just for the shelf pin holes.  It worked great for that, but I can't say it's been helpful with the 35mm portion (other than the bit was included in the kit).

 

[Lou Miller]

You guys do know that you don't have to buy the entire LR32 kit, don't you? Just get this:http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/...d=a92702613a41c7c16ef3ccc05f119630&pid=583160

Add a systainer if you like, and/or 5mm bits (I prefer 1/4" which was another reason for me not to buy the whole kit), and a 42" rail and you'll be all set.

I don't know what the cost of the 5mm bits and the 35mm bit are, but I figured it had to be cheaper for me to piece it out since I had no use for the bits.

Just another thing for some of you to consider if you just want to drill shelf holes with the jig like me. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

I tried to use the 1400 router and the 35mm bit from the LR32 to drill my hinge holes on my cabinet project.  The router turns the bit so fast that it really just burns the wood and won't drill a hole. 

What speed did you use the router at, I would think you could turn the speed down to get better results???
Brice

 

[brandon.nickel]

The same question occurred to me as I typed the response, but I can't remember.  I feel sure that I would have turned it all the way down after my first unsuccessful attempt, but as it was back at the beginning of November, I don't recall.  This was into cherry, so it was easy to burn.  The same bit in the drill had no trouble, so it was definitely just going too fast...  I should try again to see if maybe that just didn't occur to me at the time.  I still have about 40 holes to drill, so a good system using my guide rails or MFT would help.  Does anyone have suggestions?  I'm trying to decipher what Mirko has used, but I don't quite get it.  Can someone post pictures that include using the MFT, flag stops, and fence/guide rail to set up for repeatable hole locations?

 

[fcraven]

...The router turns the bit so fast that it really just burns the wood and won't drill a hole....[ the LR32 ] It worked great for [shelf pin holes], but I can't say it's been helpful with the 35mm portion (other than the bit was included in the kit).

That's the kind of information for which I'm looking. When the day comes I'll probably get the 1010 router (my other router is the Fein). The 1010 and 1400 routes both have a low speed of 10,000 rpm, one would think that's low enough for a 35mm bit, hmm. If it doesn't work well for hinge holes then it begs the question of "why provide the bit with the kit?"

Lou makes a good point too.

You...don't have to buy the entire LR32 kit...Just get this:http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/...d=a92702613a41c7c16ef3ccc05f119630&pid=583160 ...(I prefer 1/4" which was another reason for me not to buy the whole kit), and a 42" rail and you'll be all set.

I don't know what the cost of the 5mm bits and the 35mm bit are, but I figured it had to be cheaper for me to piece it out since I had no use for the bits...

Lou, it was your original post about piece mealing a hole drilling kit that got me thinking about this question. FWIW the 35mm bit is $58 and the 5mm bits are $25 each.

I do want to get the LR32 for drilling shelf holes, I just don't really need it for that right now. I would sit quietly back not worrying about it, but there's that dang April 1st date coming up. Whatever my chosen method for drilling the holes the customer will get the same results (except ,it will be a lot cleaner with the Festool router than a drill).

Here's my thinking. German products tend to have a reason for everything, while American products which tend to have...lots of macho power (often without a good reason). I don't think Festool would provide the 35mm bit for drilling hinge holes if there wasn't an efficient way to use it; however, German/European instructions tend to suck eggs while American instructions can walk you through every detail of how to turn on your toaster (and even then some people still can't figure it out). So, although I can't find any documentation, or illustrations, I suspect there is a way to make it work, and work well.

And yes, I know I can try it and return it if not satisfied, and I may do that anyway. But first I need to secure the job!

 

[Brice Burrell]

  I just used my Festool 32mm bit with LR32 to rout holes in some poplar and birch ply with speed set on #1, no problems. This is the first time I used my LR32 to set hinges (in some scrap) it was fast and easy. I used Mirko's idea to round up to the nearest 32mm, so you can use the stops to hold the work. Rout holes for plate, with stops set for 16mm offset. Change the stops to 32mm offset, rout holes for door. Piece of cake. If I have time tommarrow I can go into mare details with pic.
Brice

 

[John Stevens]

There's not much savings in buying the LR-32 kit as opposed to pieces.  I bought pieces, and would have bought even fewer of them if I'd had Mirko's nice tutorial at the time of my decision.

I've used the OF1010 to bore 35mm holes in birch plywood, and it bored a nice clean hole, but I've never tried it in solid wood.  But that's only part of the story:  set up time to place the hole in the right spot is probably a lot more than set-up time for the LV jig.

Regards,

John

 

[Corwin]

I recently bought the Hole Kit & Kaboodle, along with a 20mm bit.  Will need to work with this some more, but having a little trouble getting it all back into the insert -- and as a child I was usually the only one in the family who could get a map folded up correctly -- Hmmm.  Had I simply purchased the parts, the bits would have come in the nice little containers and the bigger stuff could have just gone in a drawer.  And the difference in cost could have been spent on one of those Sortainers that I have been eyeing...

Hindsight...

Corwin

 

[bigbadpig]

...The router turns the bit so fast that it really just burns the wood and won't drill a hole....[ the LR32 ] It worked great for [shelf pin holes], but I can't say it's been helpful with the 35mm portion (other than the bit was included in the kit).

That's the kind of information for which I'm looking. When the day comes I'll probably get the 1010 router (my other router is the Fein). The 1010 and 1400 routes both have a low speed of 10,000 rpm, one would think that's low enough for a 35mm bit, hmm. If it doesn't work well for hinge holes then it begs the question of "why provide the bit with the kit?"

Hmmm if 10000 RPM is the lowest ... wouldnt that be way to high speed still?  Maybe it varies based on the wood species.  I know that with 35mm forstner bits,  you dont want to spin them at speeds exceeding 600 RPM.

 

[ccmviking]

    I use the BLUM jig and don't have any complaints about it.  It has easy to set stops, drills great, is easy to align and clamp to your work piece.  I would be it'll be the fastest hand unit you'll find.  Don't use anything that won't also drill the hinge mounting holes for you.  Trying to align all those hinges as you try to put 2 screws in each one is a pain.  The BLUM jig will drill out for the plastic tap in nut inserts or you can just tape down on each bit seperately to mark and center punch each screw hole (I hope you can understand what I mean).  Just be sure to rake the shavings out of the jig every couple of holes and it's quick, easy, accurate.

Chris...

 

[Dave Rudy]

You guys do know that you don't have to buy the entire LR32 kit, don't you?

Lou, other than the 5mm bits, 35 mm bit and systainer, what exactly comes in the whole kit in addition to the parts you referenced?  Apparently there are some stops that dont seem to be available separately, or did I misread that?

Dave