3d printed accesoiries - perfect festool green

[afish]

I use the velcro tape from HF no sticky residue, very little bulk or weight, easy to reposition if needed. Next time I have some spare hose I will probably make one with the cord inside the hose. 
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-q...oop-cable-strap-96215.html?_br_psugg_q=velcro

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I've tried literally dozens of these printed clips from a bunch of different sources, and for the same reason as the OP = fixing the power cable of my Mirka Deros to a 27mm Festool hose.

They look really pretty for a day or so.

Then they break.

I went back to duck tape and zip ties.

What filament did you use?
How many did you put on the hose?

I also have seen people put some woven cable sleeve over the whole thing instead of clips

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[member=78111]sebr023[/member] I have no idea on filament type, because I bought all my clips from outside sources who made them and supplied them commercially. I experimented with clip numbers, maxing out with about 10 of the things on a 3.5m hose - they still broke. Maybe I just got unlucky with the ones I bought - I know nothing about 3D printing and I always wondered if there were stronger grades of material which would make the clips more durable. If I find some which don't break - I'll buy 'em. I also wondered about sleeving the whole hose, but I didn't want to lose the superb flexibility which, to me, is one of the main attractions of Festool hoses.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

I also use Velcro tape to hold the PlugIt lead to my hose......It works a treat!
I managed to get a Festool coloured green velcro...

 

[Packard]

You have to remember that extrusions and molded pieces are essentially one homogeneous shape.  Whereas 3D printing is either layers or individual dots of plastic depending upon who is writing the description.  So with a molded piece you have to strength of the material and the design of the part contributing to the performance of the component.

But with 3D printing you have the strength of the resin, but then you have to factor in how well the dots of resin are fusing together.  Invariably the latest dot to be deposited will be fully molten and the adjacent dots are starting to congeal.  It is nearly homogeneous but not completely.  It is sort of like particle board compared to lumber.  It is little bits of plastic fused together.  It is not a single piece of plastic. 

I am simply going by what I have read. 

The earliest handguns that were investment cast had a bad reputation and they were certainly weaker than forged guns.  But certain components could be investment cast successfully and function just as well as the machined forgings.  They were not as strong, but they were cheaper and easier to make and the components were chosen that were suited to the process.

The earliest 3D printers were prototype machines.  The vision for these machines was to eliminate costly design errors.  But lets not convince ourselves that all visually identical parts, some 3d printed and some injection molded, will perform identically.  They may, if the part is appropriate for the process.  Or they may be wannabes that look like the real thing but fail at inopportune times.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Maybe it's just me - but I find it it very odd that this post about 'perfect Festool green' 3D-printed aftermarket parts has so far generated 941 views and 23 replies, whilst a recent post about 2200/1400 sub-bases aimed at fixing an actual woodworking problem has only 3 replies and 280 views.

3 x the views, and 8 x the replies. It tells me a lot about where some people's priorities lie.

So is this forum about those who want to do better woodworking - or for those who just want impressive-looking hoses?

Am I missing something here?

[attachimg=1]

 

[Bob D.]

I've tried literally dozens of these printed clips from a bunch of different sources, and for the same reason as the OP = fixing the power cable of my Mirka Deros to a 27mm Festool hose.

They look really pretty for a day or so.

Then they break.

I went back to duck tape and zip ties.

That could be because of the filament they were made with. PLA can be brittle, PLA+ or PETG would hold up better.

I sent an email to Hatchbox this morning asking if they had RGB or CYMK color code information on their filaments and suggested they add it to their website so people could color match, the reply was no, they don't have that information. I have also emailed PRUSA as they make filament too. Still waiting for a response from them.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Thanks very much [member=60461]Bob D.[/member] Appreciated.

 

[festal]

This one is really close. Had good results with it.  Few parts i printed are holding up ok
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/fiberforce-pantone-368-c-pla-filament-175-075/sk/MXS6ALTK

 

[sebr023]

I've tried literally dozens of these printed clips from a bunch of different sources, and for the same reason as the OP = fixing the power cable of my Mirka Deros to a 27mm Festool hose.

They look really pretty for a day or so.

Then they break.

I went back to duck tape and zip ties.

What filament did you use?
How many did you put on the hose?

I also have seen people put some woven cable sleeve over the whole thing instead of clips

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[member=78111]sebr023[/member] I have no idea on filament type, because I bought all my clips from outside sources who made them and supplied them commercially. I experimented with clip numbers, maxing out with about 10 of the things on a 3.5m hose - they still broke. Maybe I just got unlucky with the ones I bought - I know nothing about 3D printing and I always wondered if there were stronger grades of material which would make the clips more durable. If I find some which don't break - I'll buy 'em. I also wondered about sleeving the whole hose, but I didn't want to lose the superb flexibility which, to me, is one of the main attractions of Festool hoses.

Gotcha.
And it’s really nice to have that flexibility too. I really appreciate it too.

I’ve printed a couple thing on the past. And fdm printing is not that bridle. That’s why I was asking how many and what was the material they were printed on.
Tomorrow I’ll try to get a video and post it.
From the 4 test clip I’ve made using ASA (which is probably overkill for the task. ASA is the better version of ABS. It’s UV resistant and also stronger than AVS), I couldn’t break the clip. This is the reason I was wondering how your broke them.

But yeah, not all plastic are created equal, and for fdm ( filament feed throught a hot end that melt the plastic filament) printer, the orientation of your prints matters too.

Prints from resin printer (liquid poured in a tank, then a UV light harden the liquid resin) are usually better looking, but more fragile.

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[sebr023]

I've tried literally dozens of these printed clips from a bunch of different sources, and for the same reason as the OP = fixing the power cable of my Mirka Deros to a 27mm Festool hose.

They look really pretty for a day or so.

Then they break.

I went back to duck tape and zip ties.

That could be because of the filament they were made with. PLA can be brittle, PLA+ or PETG would hold up better.

I sent an email to Hatchbox this morning asking if they had RGB or CYMK color code information on their filaments and suggested they add it to their website so people could color match, the reply was no, they don't have that information. I have also emailed PRUSA as they make filament too. Still waiting for a response from them.

I’m sure they don’t give a shit about colour code and all that.

Polyterra from Polymaker mentionned the pen tone. But that’s about the only company I’ve seen with this kind of information.

Maybe Also filamentum has some kind of information too.

Edit: just checked filamentum website and no information regarding colour code or anything.

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[sebr023]

This one is really close. Had good results with it.  Few parts i printed are holding up ok
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/fiberforce-pantone-368-c-pla-filament-175-075/sk/MXS6ALTK

Doesn’t seem to be available anymore.
But thanks a lot!

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[krudawg]

Hi guys!

Last year I bought a CT26 has i was doing home renovation and wanted an hepa dust collector.

Last weekend I bought a rotex 150.
Now i want to 3d print clip to hold the power cable from the CT to the sander, on the hose.

Ive seen a couple festool green 3d printed accesoiries, wanted to know what brand you guys used to have the perfect festool
Green.
Pull the T-LOC of any Festool Systainer and take it to Sherwin Williams to match it.  The did a great job matching it.

If the thread isnt in the right category, ill move it, or mod, you can move it.

Thanks!

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[sebr023]

I use Matter Hackers PRO lime green (PLA) .. it is a perfect match.  I tried several other filaments that were close, but the MH PRO lime green is the best I've found.

Hey! hi! I know its been a while, but where did you find you stl for the dog holder