3D Printed LR32 End Stop for Blum Hardware and Blum Process32

[Gordon Bombay]

Looks great. What did you use for edge banding in that one?

I ordered the suggested fasteners you suggested and will hopefull get them in time to test it out this weekend.

 

[mculik5]

Thanks.

The edgebanding is just unfinished birch iron-on. I started with a roll of stuff from the lumber yard near where I work. I've forgotten the brand, but it was barely wider than the (already less than) 3/4" plywood. When I ran out of that, I bought a different brand from my local lumber yard called "Band-It" (http://band-itproducts.com/). The Band-It stuff is MUCH better. Easily wider than the plywood, and the veneer itself was substantially thicker.

I don't have much experience with edgebanding, but was pretty impressed with the iron-on stuff. It sticks well as long as you follow the iron with a roller. It's also very clean. I used my wife's really nice iron (only iron in the house...) and didn't get any glue on it or the plywood.

I was able to trim the ends flush with the sides of the panels using a razor knife. And I used a block plane to flush trim. The block plane worked well enough, and was much easier to handle than my OF1400 with a flush trim bit (wish I had a MFK 700). That said, I think the bit would have provided cleaner and more consistent results.

Let me know if you have any other questions about it.

 

[Cheese]

However, I watched a video made by AvE (the guy who tore apart a TS55) where he tore apart a DeWalt grinder, and it had a sintered metal gear. After seeing that, I changed my mind a bit, and figure if it's strong enough for a grinder, it's probably OK stuff.

FWIW...Powdered metal parts have been around for the last 50+ years. The PM process is used to make gears for automobile transmissions to connecting rods just to name a few.

Small block Chevy connecting rod used in over 500 HP applications.

[attachimg=1]

Gears used in a hammer drill

[attachimg=2]

 

[anthonyz]

I created a video that talks about my experience 3D printing parts. One of those parts is a custom end stop for the LR32 system designed for Blum Process32. It allows the holes to be 46.5mm and 62.5mm from the edge, as specified in the Blum Process32 manual.

I start talking in more detail about the end stop at about the 3 minute mark.

Very happy with the way this and my other parts came out, and thought I'd share the video here.

I wasn't familiar with the blum 32 Process, but I think I will adopt this standardized system. I think the part your designed for the LR 32 is a great idea. I decided to make my own, as I have a 3d printer. The shapeways prints are much cleaner print than my printer, but I found if you can reduce the hole size to about 5.6mm diameter, then it can be easily threaded for the 6mm screw which come with the LR32 kit. A 6mm tap will probably be less cost than the thumb screws you have to add and most I think would like to just use the festool knobs. But a great idea. Hope you sell a lot.

 

[mculik5]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] - Thanks for the comments! I hope you like the Blum Process32 system as much as I do.

As an aside, Blum makes two high-end drawer box lines called Legrabox and Tandembox. I didn't know much about these until I spoke with my distributor while picking up Tandem slides for my most recent project. Basically, they combine Tandem slides and drawer sides into a single unit. The builder only needs to provide custom-width front, back, and bottom panels. In my case, making basic pocket-screw drawer boxes, when I considered the cost of the separate slides, plywood, and my time to cut/assemble everything , the Legrabox and Tandembox stuff didn't seem terribly expensive. Just something to consider...

Anyway...

You've had success tapping 3D-printed plastic parts? I haven't tried it yet. Not sure if you've ever felt the Shapeways stuff, but it feels kind of gritty, like sintered plastic powder. My concern is that the threads will not be strong enough (too brittle). Does your 3D printer use a similar powder material, or does it do the extruded ABS layers? Would love to know more.

I also want to try Shapeways metal, but it's very expensive.

 

[anthonyz]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] - Thanks for the comments! I hope you like the Blum Process32 system as much as I do.

As an aside, Blum makes two high-end drawer box lines called Legrabox and Tandembox. I didn't know much about these until I spoke with my distributor while picking up Tandem slides for my most recent project. Basically, they combine Tandem slides and drawer sides into a single unit. The builder only needs to provide custom-width front, back, and bottom panels. In my case, making basic pocket-screw drawer boxes, when I considered the cost of the separate slides, plywood, and my time to cut/assemble everything , the Legrabox and Tandembox stuff didn't seem terribly expensive. Just something to consider...

Anyway...

You've had success tapping 3D-printed plastic parts? I haven't tried it yet. Not sure if you've ever felt the Shapeways stuff, but it feels kind of gritty, like sintered plastic powder. My concern is that the threads will not be strong enough (too brittle). Does your 3D printer use a similar powder material, or does it do the extruded ABS layers? Would love to know more.

I also want to try Shapeways metal, but it's very expensive.

I have done shapeway prints and I know what you mean. I have not tried tapping their material, but it feels strong, so I would imagine it would hold up and not crumble. I print in usually PLA or Nylon on my Printer. It wouldn't hurt to make the modification and give the threading a try. If it's possible, you might get more people who will by the end stop.

 

[mculik5]

I modified the end stop for tapping and ordered one from Shapeways tonight. M6 tap is on its way from Amazon. As soon as I get the part, I'll post tapping results.

I also designed a drawer box/drawer front locating template for the 24mm/36mm offsets specified by the Process32 system. Will post more about that, too, as soon as the part comes.

 

[mculik5]

SUCCESS!

Thanks, anthonyz, for pushing me to try tapping the part. I "redesigned" the part with a 5mm hole to be tapped. It arrived today, and was easily and successfully tapped by hand.

The new part now fits the standard Festool LR32 end stop thumbscrew.

View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3

If you're interested, it's on Shapeways for the same $15 as the original. If you have a M6x1.00 tap, you can tap it yourself. If you don't, I've provided links in the Shapeways description to the taps and tap handle I used. Both are available on Amazon.com.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/DHAQ6LWJ4/lr32-end-stop-tap-version

Alternatively, if enough folks are interested, I'll order a bunch, tap them for you, and ship them. Price for this would be $25, shipping included. Let me know if interested.

Also, as mentioned in my last post, HERE is a pic of the 24mm/36mm offset template I printed to aid in aligning drawer fronts to drawer boxes. Unfortunately, due to the amount of printed material, the cost on this part is close to $45. I doubt folks will be interested at that price. If you are, though, let me know, and I'll put the part in the store and sell it pretty much at cost.

View attachment 4

Thanks again for all of your feedback!

 

[anthonyz]

SUCCESS!

Thanks, anthonyz, for pushing me to try tapping the part. I "redesigned" the part with a 5mm hole to be tapped. It arrived today, and was easily and successfully tapped by hand.

The new part now fits the standard Festool LR32 end stop thumbscrew.

View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3

If you're interested, it's on Shapeways for the same $15 as the original. If you have a M6x1.00 tap, you can tap it yourself. If you don't, I've provided links in the Shapeways description to the taps and tap handle I used. Both are available on Amazon.com.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/DHAQ6LWJ4/lr32-end-stop-tap-version

Alternatively, if enough folks are interested, I'll order a bunch, tap them for you, and ship them. Price for this would be $25, shipping included. Let me know if interested.

Also, as mentioned in my last post, HERE is a pic of the 24mm/36mm offset template I printed to aid in aligning drawer fronts to drawer boxes. Unfortunately, due to the amount of printed material, the cost on this part is close to $45. I doubt folks will be interested at that price. If you are, though, let me know, and I'll put the part in the store and sell it pretty much at cost.

View attachment 4

Thanks again for all of your feedback!

Great Job on the parts design. I think I am missing the way you use 24mm/36mm offset template. If you have any time, maybe a Video on how to use it, Best of luck.

 

[mculik5]

As requested, here's an explanation of the other Blum template I 3D printed.

 

[anthonyz]

As requested, here's an explanation of the other Blum template I 3D printed.

Thanks for doing that video! Now I get it. Great job on the templates!