45 degree angle cuts

I watched the video above, something I rarely do but this one is very good.

Apropos the debate about cutting bevels with the track saw vs. the table saw (he had a portable tablesaw on the job site) one of the white oak boards he used was seriously bowed and couldn’t be successfully run through a tablesaw, especially not a slider, unless there is a way to completely press out the bow. Maybe the tablesaw with a stock feeder?

He discussed how the flexible track conforms to the bow and allows the saw to maintain the proper relationship to the stock so the finished board still has straight edges despite the bow.

The guy in the video has excellent skill in using the tracksaw. He cuts 14 foot bevels (suitable for the taped miter fold assembly) using a single 2700mm track and no clamps. And the results look good.
 
Michael Kellough said:
The guy in the video has excellent skill in using the tracksaw. He cuts 14 foot bevels (suitable for the taped miter fold assembly) using a single 2700mm track and no clamps. And the results look good.

I learned quite a bit from that video.

He's using the Freud 14T blade which has a slightly wider kerf than the 2.2 Festool blades. I'm guessing he's committed to Freud blades or do you think he's swapping between Festool and Freud blades and ignoring the slight difference in how his splinter guard is cut?
 
4nthony said:
Michael Kellough said:
The guy in the video has excellent skill in using the tracksaw. He cuts 14 foot bevels (suitable for the taped miter fold assembly) using a single 2700mm track and no clamps. And the results look good.

I learned quite a bit from that video.

He's using the Freud 14T blade which has a slightly wider kerf than the 2.2 Festool blades. I'm guessing he's committed to Freud blades or do you think he's swapping between Festool and Freud blades and ignoring the slight difference in how his splinter guard is cut?

Whether the Freud blade cuts the splinter guard depends on the offset of the teeth, which depends on the thickness of the blank in addition to the tooth (kerf) thickness.

If it did cut the splinter guard that might be a good thing since he is setting the splinter guard to the snapped chalk line.

note that he is setting the saw angle to 45.5* so the edges of the bevels are more likely to close together, especially after burnishing.

The takeaway for me (from the video) is to burnish through the tape while the glue is wet and the wood is more pliable.
 
Not a "furniture shop", but I definitely use my tracksaws as a pro in a cabinet shop. I agree 100% with mino's statement about not using them as designed. I'm sure I have commented on this before with so many YouTube woodworkers doing the break-down with a tracksaw and then make the final cuts with a table saw. Seems silly to me. You can get perfectly usable cuts directly from the TS and just move on.
Using the proper TCG blade, I regularly make glue-seam-ready cuts with a TS. It really is a finish cut tool.
 
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