700 sq foot deck sanding/finishing project

Cedar and redwood won't look anything like Ipe.

You can have that look, if you pry your wallet open.

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Ipe with Messmer's.
 
Scott B. said:
We sand decks on a pretty regular basis in my company's maintenance program.

Scott,

How do you handle checks in PT decks? A poor man would like to know. [embarassed]
 
Les Spencer said:
Scott B. said:
We sand decks on a pretty regular basis in my company's maintenance program.

Scott,

How do you handle checks in PT decks? A poor man would like to know. [embarassed]

Les

My own house front porch deck is pt, so that one hits me where I live.

If they are split up checks, the kind that could stab my son in the foot, I cut them out with a utility knife and sand the area smooth. If there is still enough of a lip to be a concern, inject some glue. If they are split checks, I just load them up with oil and leave them be.

 
Most of my deck is redwood but the guys who refinished it 6 years ago replaced some of the redwood with cedar.  I noticed that there are some black marks and many of the boards look like they have spotsl that are just rotted wood.  I can literally flick the split/cracked spots out with my fingers.  The deck is 29 years old so it's been around for quite awhile.  As I sand it down I can get past the dark spots.  How long can I leave the sanded secteions bare before treating it?
 
suds said:
Most of my deck is redwood but the guys who refinished it 6 years ago replaced some of the redwood with cedar.  I noticed that there are some black marks and many of the boards look like they have spotsl that are just rotted wood.  I can literally flick the split/cracked spots out with my fingers.  The deck is 29 years old so it's been around for quite awhile.  As I sand it down I can get past the dark spots.  How long can I leave the sanded secteions bare before treating it?

Redwood starts to react to the environment and darken pretty quickly, you can sand a section and leave something on a board and come back in 10 minutes and you will see the shadow.  As long as it is getting similar exposure I wouldn't worry about it, but I will usually do all my stripping, then go back over everything with 120 right before refinishing.  Instead of sanding 1/2 way through the boards to get to good wood try flipping the boards over, you may find almost perfect deck boards right on the other side.

Scott those are some great deck pics, wood always looks best when it's wet.  Love that Ipe deck....that would have been a great build.  Will have to check out the Epiphanes and marine Penofin.  Always thought it would be cool to do a deck with several platforms using different product on each to get a good testing ground.  Instead I tend to stick to what I know works ( at least for me).  
 
Wow Darcy, that has to be your best deck yet!  Are you using Dekorator rail connectors  for the post to rail connections?  Ever try doing a housed M&T for those?  I set up my MFS and can crank them out pretty quick, it does make assembly a bit tougher especially for infield posts but I think the cleaner rail to post joint is well worth it.  How does the Ipe dust treat you after a while?
 
Scott and others:

Thanks for all of the information.  I need to refinish my deck this summer.  It's cedar and I'm not sure what was last applied.  Before using Penofin Marine Grade, I plan on sanding with Granat 80 grit.  I also plan on doing just a few boards at a time or I won't be able to reach them to rub out the excess.

Do you also recommend using any stripper/prep products or should the sanding (RS2 E hooked to CT22) be sufficient on its own?

Thanks in advance,
Phred
 
Here are a couple of photos of the current condition of my deck.  Any advice on prep (sanding, washing, pressure washing, stripping, etc.) would be appreciated!  Also what is your typical prep for a deck treated with Penofin and renewed annually?

Thanks for looking,
Fred

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Whatever you do dont pressure wash it. You will leave marks everywhere. If you want to do it right and you want it to look like Warners posts you will have to sand it fully. Do you have a RO 150? It would pay for itself if not. Get 50,80,120 grit. Ive used Rubin in the past but others will also work. Do one pass in the lower grit 50 or 80 depending in the grinding setting and one pass with 120 in the fine finish setting to sand out swirls from first pass. This is only what has worked for me on certain decks, you may need more or less sanding. blow it off really good before finishing. Yours looks easy from the pics. Sink all nails and screws before sanding, Eric
 
lpand said:
Scott B -

Is this ,https://epifanes.com/na/store/varnishes-and-clear-finishes/clear-varnish/, the Epifanes product you used on the rails?

Lloyd

Hey Lloyd

Sorry I missed this.

For best results on new or sanded wood, do two coats of this:https://epifanes.com/na/store/varnishes-and-clear-finishes/woodfinish-gloss/

Followed by 1-2 coats of this:https://epifanes.com/na/store/varnishes-and-clear-finishes/woodfinish-matte/

Sand between coats. 150/180/220/240 is a nice range to be in as you step up through the grits. And I absolutely recommend using the epiphanes brushing thinner. It is critical.

Also, the pricing in these links is really good, WAY better than I can get it for locally. It is remarkable stuff. Just maintain it.
 
Been sanding with my RO 150 FEQ and it's been taking quite a bit of time because or my work schedule and lousy weather.  Unfortunately my plug to RO failed and now I have to send it in to get it fixed.  Evidently this is a common problem if the plug does not "click" in place. 
Wondered if the Ras 115 would be a good substitute for this job?  I've been using Granat and going through lots of it to get to bare wood so maybe the Ras is a better choice or a good substitute?  I've been thinking of getting one since i have a number of wood sanding projects.
 
suds said:
Been sanding with my RO 150 FEQ and it's been taking quite a bit of time because or my work schedule and lousy weather.  Unfortunately my plug to RO failed and now I have to send it in to get it fixed.  Evidently this is a common problem if the plug does not "click" in place. 
Wondered if the Ras 115 would be a good substitute for this job?  I've been using Granat and going through lots of it to get to bare wood so maybe the Ras is a better choice or a good substitute?  I've been thinking of getting one since i have a number of wood sanding projects.

I like the Granat but it might not tough enough for this kind of heavy sanding.  Id love to see Granat with a thicker more durable backing material.  You could try Cristal if you're finding the Granat to be falling apart on you.  You'd need to be careful because Cristal can leave a deep scratch pattern behind that can take a lot of work to remove. 

The Ras would work but you'd need to get through the learning curve to sanding without doing damage on the softwood. 
 
Wow,there's no comparison between the RO 150FEQ & the RAS. You're right about having to get some practice to know how to operate the RAS, but once you do you can really remove a lot of material fast. For my purpose it is great.  [big grin]
 
OK...finally got the deck done and wiped down and the deck looks great.  By mid Nov things will start getting cold and even some snow by then so is there any reason to put another coat on it in Oct?  What happens next spring..will it need to be sanded again and reinstalled? 
 
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