80/20 profiles 1.5" question

While I do not have a Kapex, I have cut literally miles of aluminum.  My current favorite blade for aluminum is Amana's Blucoat aluminum blade which I use for aluminum and plastics.
 
I used a Trend CSB/AP30584 tungsten carbide tipped blade to cut the aluminum extrusion when I made the fence for my workbench, but I think any of the blades mentioned above will work just as well.  The 84-tooth blade has a 30mm arbor hole and fits my Minimax SC2C table saw and Dewalt DWS780 miter saw.  The extrusion was very easy to cut on both saws.

I didn't use any lubrication, but I did make shallow cuts and inspected the teeth for signs of buildup.  I didn't see any buildup, and was happy with the blade.  I also turned off my dust collection to avoid the potential for hot aluminum chips making their way to my dust bin.  The aluminum cooled down quickly, but I didn't want to take any chances.
 
I have the Festool aluminum blade for the Kapex but any of the blades designed to cut aluminum would be a great alternative rather than using a standard wood blade. Amana, Trend, Freud, CMT, Lenox, Morse, Bosch, Tenryu or Evolution are all good choices.

I also use a Milwaukee saw blade wax lubricant because it's less messy.
 
Just another note, the geometry of the aluminum blades is identical to plastic cutting blades so is useful for both.  If I am cutting thick aluminum of any quantity I run my blades through a piece of scrap brass to clean any aluminum galling that might be on the blades.  Do the same with my bandsaw.
 
rst said:
If I am cutting thick aluminum of any quantity I run my blades through a piece of scrap brass to clean any aluminum galling that might be on the blades.  Do the same with my bandsaw.
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Wow...that's a new one on me.  [smile]  How thick is the brass scrap and how much lineal length does it take?

Kind of reminds me of running the diamond blade on the Stihl cement saw through some asphalt scraps to refresh the diamonds.
 
I just use whatever piece of old hardware that I have... advantage of being a locksmith is having lots of old brass
 
I've been purchasing 80/20 from my local Graingers (in Portland, OR). No shipping charges and they are now carrying a selection of 80/20 in stock, including a variety of fasteners and plates. The store manager told me it's become a popular item because it's readily available.

As for cutting 80/20 profiles I am fortunate to have several Festool Kapex aluminum blades (No. 495385, apparently they have been discontinued). As long as the work is securely clamped down and the cut is made slowly the results are excellent. Only downside is the aluminum chips flying everywhere.
 
I just use a negative rake blade, nothing special and no lubricants. Most of the secret in a blade for aluminium is the negative rake and nothing else. It lives on the saw so cuts all my wood as well.
 
These were designed in F360 for the same purpose. I printed a couple on my cheapo 3D printer and they worked so slick I had a bunch made in SLS. 5/16 flat head threads into tapped center bore, then a couple 1/4" SCS with drop in t-nuts to connect them wherever.

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The magic is the 1/4" t nuts slip into the slot then, while tightening, they turn 90 degrees. You don't need access to an open end of the slot.

RMW

 

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Cheese said:
Noticed that 80/20 has just released a new internal connector that doesn't require any machining. Added to that, it's also cheaper than several of their other connectors.
https://8020.net/14197.html?mc_cid=47e132967b&mc_eid=fc922cd8ba

[attachimg=2]
Click to expand...

I was just watching some videos on the MFS system.  The connectors you posted look like a slightly larger version of what is used in the MFS system.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
I was just watching some videos on the MFS system.  The connectors you posted look like a slightly larger version of what is used in the MFS system.

Peter
Click to expand...

They are Peter, the only difference is that the sleeve & the screw on the 80/20 connectors have RH & LH threads where the MFS sleeve & screw have the same RH thread.
 
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] , as I wrote I was looking at using my MFS-400 for the first time (bought thru Amazon / Festool UK last year with free shipping  [big grin]) when I realized that the set I have is too small.  SO, looking at that post I am thinking about getting the profile shown along with 8 of the connectors and making a larger version of the MFS without the scale.  I know about the 1.5" thickness but I also want the 3" width.  Am I missing something other than the black spacer?  I have two of the metal sleds (overbought by mistake when I thought that the NA stock was depleted) so I can ride over the top of the profiles or make a spacer.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] , as I wrote I was looking at using my MFS-400 for the first time (bought thru Amazon / Festool UK last year with free shipping  [big grin]) when I realized that the set I have is too small.  SO, looking at that post I am thinking about getting the profile shown along with 8 of the connectors and making a larger version of the MFS without the scale.  I know about the 1.5" thickness but I also want the 3" width.  Am I missing something other than the black spacer?  I have two of the metal sleds (overbought by mistake when I thought that the NA stock was depleted) so I can ride over the top of the profiles or make a spacer.

Peter
Click to expand...

Peter, if you can live with the 1-1/2" height you should be good to go. The 80/20 does not use a spacer, that's part of Richard's design which is rather clever.  [smile]

I use my MFS a ton...more than I thought I would. I found that I was breaking down other MFS set-ups to work on something else and then I'd have to reassemble the original MFS, got tired of that so I purchased all 5 sizes. Even after that, I found out that I needed another pair of 400's so I purchased those from the UK.
 
I just checked what the prices were for the MFS-700 and the 700 extensions.  By the time you deal with the shipping the prices become stupidly expensive for what would probably be a rarely used item for me - especially if one goes the CNC or Shaper route that I am thinking about where jigs and fixture parts become reasons to keep some scrap around.

Peter
 
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