96 mm Layout for new work table
- Thread starter AdW
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Several methods, some discussed at length:http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-sales-dealer-area/ujk-parf-guide-system-videos/
and using what you have:
and using what you have:
erock
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Did you buy the FS 2424/2 LR32 rail ?
If you have the LR32 system and the 95" rail.....you're set. You'll need to come up with good way to set the rail near the middle of the sheet, the edge stops will only get you so far into the middle of the sheet of ply/mdf.....I used a Woodpecker story stick.
Eric
If you have the LR32 system and the 95" rail.....you're set. You'll need to come up with good way to set the rail near the middle of the sheet, the edge stops will only get you so far into the middle of the sheet of ply/mdf.....I used a Woodpecker story stick.
Eric
The Process in the video seems overcomplicated:
If your table top blank is square and a bit bigger so it can be cut to size after being drilled (you need ~2cm more in one dimension) it is relatively simple to creat a jig on the blank:
Create two rows of index holes (every 3rd hole in the rail) matching (5mm or whatever you have) shelve pins along both edges of the oversized side. With the LR-32 a simple task, just keep in mind to register the rail from the same reference edge. Jig done.
1) Put shelve pins in two dirctly opposing holes, register the rail against these and your reference edge, drill a line of 20mm holes using every 3rd FS hole.
2) Repeat for all pairs of opposing index holes to create the final 20mm hole pattern.
3) Finally cutoff the excess containing the rows of index holes.
This should deliver a quite precise result quite quickly.
In case your top is already at size you can clamp two cutoffs with the index hole rows to two opposing sides.
If your table top blank is square and a bit bigger so it can be cut to size after being drilled (you need ~2cm more in one dimension) it is relatively simple to creat a jig on the blank:
Create two rows of index holes (every 3rd hole in the rail) matching (5mm or whatever you have) shelve pins along both edges of the oversized side. With the LR-32 a simple task, just keep in mind to register the rail from the same reference edge. Jig done.
1) Put shelve pins in two dirctly opposing holes, register the rail against these and your reference edge, drill a line of 20mm holes using every 3rd FS hole.
2) Repeat for all pairs of opposing index holes to create the final 20mm hole pattern.
3) Finally cutoff the excess containing the rows of index holes.
This should deliver a quite precise result quite quickly.
In case your top is already at size you can clamp two cutoffs with the index hole rows to two opposing sides.
erock
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I knew I had pics of my brother-in-law using my LR32 making his own custom MFT.
Here are some pics....just to show the Woodpecker story stick. You don't need a Woodpecker story stick, you can make your own sticks.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Hope this helps.
Eric
Here are some pics....just to show the Woodpecker story stick. You don't need a Woodpecker story stick, you can make your own sticks.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Hope this helps.
Eric
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I agree with Gregor on all counts. The video above has redundant steps = errors.
The critical part is getting initial 90 degree. For super precise large scale work I prefer to use trammel with needle points to lay out a large 3x4x5 triangle on your sheet rather than use factory made square.
However, if you already have MFT top, just copy it with a pattern bit.
The critical part is getting initial 90 degree. For super precise large scale work I prefer to use trammel with needle points to lay out a large 3x4x5 triangle on your sheet rather than use factory made square.
However, if you already have MFT top, just copy it with a pattern bit.
promark747
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I'm looking for an easier solution...i.e., hire a CNC company to make one (I'd like one that is about 3' x 6'). Anyone in the Chicago area know of a company that would do this? Ideally I'd like to have them make 5 holes (19.8mm, 19.9, 20.0, 20.1, 20.2) on a test piece and see which one fits my Parf dogs the best.
FastCap is coming out with an option to buy a 3' by 6' plywood top with 20mm holes (as well as an opening for a router). It's the top they are offering for their Paulk workbench. It sounds great, but my concerns would be the quality of the plywood and the sizing of the holes (as well as the $180 shipping cost...maybe they will send some to Woodcraft or Berlands House of Tools?)
FastCap is coming out with an option to buy a 3' by 6' plywood top with 20mm holes (as well as an opening for a router). It's the top they are offering for their Paulk workbench. It sounds great, but my concerns would be the quality of the plywood and the sizing of the holes (as well as the $180 shipping cost...maybe they will send some to Woodcraft or Berlands House of Tools?)
erock
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If you're planning on using the holes on a shop made MFT table for using bench dogs to referencing a rail for cuts, then the exact placement of the holes don't really matter.
What's will you be using your MFT for ? If it's for just clamping and holding pieces in place, then the holes don't need to be dead nuts perfectly placed. Don't over think it. It's a sacrificial top for a lot of guys, so at some point you may need to make a second or third top.
Eric
What's will you be using your MFT for ? If it's for just clamping and holding pieces in place, then the holes don't need to be dead nuts perfectly placed. Don't over think it. It's a sacrificial top for a lot of guys, so at some point you may need to make a second or third top.
Eric
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Are you interested in getting the 20mm x 96mm OC top done as efficiently as possible or do you want the enjoyment of doing it yourself?AdW said:
I'm asking because we are about to provide free CAD model DXF files anyone can download from our website to have the hole pattern cut locally by a commercial cabinet shop with an industrial CNC Router.
If you're interested in going the commercial route, we're prepared to help you find a suitable shop with a CNC ROuter in your area.
Let me know where you are located.
the files we will have available cover top sizes 48x96; 60x60; 36x72 and sizes to fit MFT1080; MFT-3; MFT Kapex plus any other size having popular demand. Hope this helps
Hans
info@tsoproducts.com
holmz - I think you just ran into a shop that's busy and has a backlog. So, they gave you the crazy stoopid gotta have it price for which they will drop what they're doing to make you one piece.
They were politely telling you that you're not really a customer for them.
They were politely telling you that you're not really a customer for them.
rmwarren
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I had a local guy, who was not too busy for me, quote $100 to do a full sheet of 20MM holes on 96MM centers. It was his shop minimum, and included making the file for the cuts.
Best guess, since it is a simple drawing to do, is this would have taken him an hour total if I supplied/delivered the MDF sheet.
RMW
Best guess, since it is a simple drawing to do, is this would have taken him an hour total if I supplied/delivered the MDF sheet.
RMW
Holmz said:
clark_fork
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In Missoula Montana, I found an office furniture firm able to take Steve's purchased plan for a top, under-tool-shelf and additional top for a bench top MFT and paid $387.00. So that was for three runs..
I now have Peter's Parf Guide from Axminister and I am merrily making tops for myself as well as friends with a lower amortized cost for each one, way under being at the mercy of a busy CNC shop.
Since then, I sprung for the LR-32 system and I would probably use that if I did not have the Parf Guide system. So in sequence, if anyone intends to make tops and eventually get the LR-32 system, then go for that and make tops with it. In his videos, Peter often shows off his parf dog wood fence and Parf dog wood blocks. The Parf Guide system is ideal for making Parf Dog fences for assembly work. He also shows how to make giant squares using the system. These is a nice bonuses.
I am going to insert one reminder about making tops.... WATCH THE WEIGHT!!!. My inch thick MDF top is a killer to move.
I now have Peter's Parf Guide from Axminister and I am merrily making tops for myself as well as friends with a lower amortized cost for each one, way under being at the mercy of a busy CNC shop.
Since then, I sprung for the LR-32 system and I would probably use that if I did not have the Parf Guide system. So in sequence, if anyone intends to make tops and eventually get the LR-32 system, then go for that and make tops with it. In his videos, Peter often shows off his parf dog wood fence and Parf dog wood blocks. The Parf Guide system is ideal for making Parf Dog fences for assembly work. He also shows how to make giant squares using the system. These is a nice bonuses.
I am going to insert one reminder about making tops.... WATCH THE WEIGHT!!!. My inch thick MDF top is a killer to move.
