ROb McGilp
Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2007
- Messages
- 430
I've taken up boxing, though they say it'll Neverllast
This Sunday just passed, a band of misguided woodworkers met at the home of Abu Dhabi (me) for the purpose of making something. Tezzer was the OberUberMeister of design, the Tasmanian provided the black timber, the Man form the west gave something and I just ruined everything and took pics.
The resultant box is shown 2/3 finished below. The tools used were;
1. Leigh D4R Fingerjoint jig.
2. Festool Domino.
3. Festool RO150FEQ and relevant pads and Platin foam pads at 2000 and 4000g.
4. Festool TS75
5. Dremel rotary tool and sanding cylinder.
The Domino was used to cut the trenches for mounting the base board into the sides of the box. One problem associated with cutting trenches in D/T and fingerjoint boxes is that cutting all the way along the side leaves a hole somewhere in the joint. Using a router will prevent this, but you need stops and a pretty good table when using thin timber. The Domino allows you to cut the trench to length without going too far, while not needing stops. A pencil line at each end will show you where to stop. In addition, using the 5 or 6mm cutter gives the advantage of being able to use solid timber, such as bookmatched pieces at a reasonable depth as the base.
The TS75 was used to create the joint between the two pieces of red gum on the box top.
The RO150 was used to sand and seal the timber. Starting at 80g then going to 100,120,150,180,240,320,400, Scandinavian Oil added, 400,600,800,1200,1500,2000 and 4000 to finish of. The 4000 acts effectively like Tripoli powder and cuts any remaining nap right off. ( We did the test of using Tripoli cream after sanding and before waxing and not using Tripoli cream before waxing and there was no appreciable difference.)
The box was then waxed using UBeaut Traditional Wax, which I believe is available in the US.
An interesting side note is the the Mbini (I think) which the black timber, shows swirlies very easily. To get rid of this problem, we dropped the speed of the RO150 to Mk4 and used ROS from 240g, where I would usually use ROS from 400g
So thats it in a nutshell Timbers are Mbini (African Blackwood) and Red Gum. The first two shots show the box after sanding. If you look inside the box or at the wooden hinges in front, you can see the difference the sanding has made.
The second two shots are of the waxed semi finished box. Can you find the joint in the top?
Regards
Albert
This Sunday just passed, a band of misguided woodworkers met at the home of Abu Dhabi (me) for the purpose of making something. Tezzer was the OberUberMeister of design, the Tasmanian provided the black timber, the Man form the west gave something and I just ruined everything and took pics.
The resultant box is shown 2/3 finished below. The tools used were;
1. Leigh D4R Fingerjoint jig.
2. Festool Domino.
3. Festool RO150FEQ and relevant pads and Platin foam pads at 2000 and 4000g.
4. Festool TS75
5. Dremel rotary tool and sanding cylinder.
The Domino was used to cut the trenches for mounting the base board into the sides of the box. One problem associated with cutting trenches in D/T and fingerjoint boxes is that cutting all the way along the side leaves a hole somewhere in the joint. Using a router will prevent this, but you need stops and a pretty good table when using thin timber. The Domino allows you to cut the trench to length without going too far, while not needing stops. A pencil line at each end will show you where to stop. In addition, using the 5 or 6mm cutter gives the advantage of being able to use solid timber, such as bookmatched pieces at a reasonable depth as the base.
The TS75 was used to create the joint between the two pieces of red gum on the box top.
The RO150 was used to sand and seal the timber. Starting at 80g then going to 100,120,150,180,240,320,400, Scandinavian Oil added, 400,600,800,1200,1500,2000 and 4000 to finish of. The 4000 acts effectively like Tripoli powder and cuts any remaining nap right off. ( We did the test of using Tripoli cream after sanding and before waxing and not using Tripoli cream before waxing and there was no appreciable difference.)
The box was then waxed using UBeaut Traditional Wax, which I believe is available in the US.
An interesting side note is the the Mbini (I think) which the black timber, shows swirlies very easily. To get rid of this problem, we dropped the speed of the RO150 to Mk4 and used ROS from 240g, where I would usually use ROS from 400g
So thats it in a nutshell Timbers are Mbini (African Blackwood) and Red Gum. The first two shots show the box after sanding. If you look inside the box or at the wooden hinges in front, you can see the difference the sanding has made.
The second two shots are of the waxed semi finished box. Can you find the joint in the top?
Regards
Albert
