A few more boxes

hissatsu

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May 7, 2008
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Here are a few more boxes I've done in the past few months. The first two are my own "designs." Both are walnut and maple.

The first in particular is rather basic. It was essentially an experiment to try out a miter lock router bit, which worked out pretty well. I gave it a more reddish color with colored watco danish oil before applying minwax wipe-on poly and carnauba wax. The brass feet are by Brusso.

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This one was a birthday gift for my mother and my first try at using a box joint router bit, which worked pretty well. I did it with no plan in mind other than using the box joint bit and the inlay. The molding that serves as the feet was a strip I cut from some scrap maple with the TS55 then routed the profile on the router table. It's rabbeted onto a piece of walnut that makes up the box bottom. Both these boxes used Suede-tex on the interior. Pretty easy to apply. I also used cylinder hinges on both boxes, which have the virtue of being extremely easy to install.

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The next two are designs from another Doug Stowe book, Creating Beautiful Boxes with Inlay Techniques.

The first is a triangular box, which is not practical at all, but does look nice. Walnut and Zebrawood. Shellac, then crystalac clear grain filler, ceramithane, carnauba wax. In case anyone's wondering, I use shellac first whenever I use water-based finishes. Because if you don't, those nice colored woods turn a fantastic green color that really looks great! ;) Something about the alkaline ph of water-based finishes reacting with the wood.  This box marked my first use of festool platin sanding discs between final thin coats of ceramithane. I'd previously used the Beall Buff system with felt and lambskin pads on the Rotex after finishing, but the use of platin pads allowed me to skip to first (and by far most tiring) step of buffing with tripoli compound. I think it's visible in the photos that I achieved a pretty nice surface.

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Finally, a stamp dispenser. Made from some scrap maple and inlay. Used a rubber washer in a groove cut in the lid to keep it from opening on its own. Could have used a little more sanding, but I wanted to finish it in one evening.

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Very nice. I love that you admittedly made a box that had no specific purpose.  :D I dig that.
 
Really nice stuff.

I would love to have that triangle box. It is beautiful

Eiji

PM me for shipping address ;D
 
hissatsu,

Could you explain to me the shellac process? I use only WB finish and find on lighter woods even with amber tint the dull melamine look is still apparent. I just finished a few dozen dovetailed beach wood drawer boxes and there is little to no contrast at the end grain >:( all that work for nothing! well they still look good though, I'm just very anal :o

Mirko
 
Mirko said:
hissatsu,

Could you explain to me the shellac process? I use only WB finish and find on lighter woods even with amber tint the dull melamine look is still apparent. I just finished a few dozen dovetailed beach wood drawer boxes and there is little to no contrast at the end grain >:( all that work for nothing! well they still look good though, I'm just very anal :o

Mirko

Mirko

I use Zinsser Sealcoat before applying any water-based finish. One or two light coats, light sanding, then just apply then apply the finish. It prevents the water based finish from changing the color of the wood (both walnut and purpleheart turn green without it), and imparts a slightly warmer color. Sealcoat is dewaxed shellac and should work with any finish. What waterbased finish are you using? I've heard good things about Hydrocote Resisthane. I use Ceramithane because it has UV protection, though I have to thin it because I prefer to wipe on finishes. Some water-based finishes have a very bluish look to them.

Pedro
 
Eiji Fuller said:
Did you document the build?

Eiji,

Unfortunately no; I doubt I'll ever have the time to stop and photograph while working. The box is made mostly of 1/4" walnut, 6" high with 3" wide sides. The top is 3/4" walnut, the bottom 1/8" walnut. The inlay is a 1" wide, 1/8" inch thick strip of zebrawood. The channel for the inlay was cut on a router table with a plywood jig to hole the piece at an angle. The miters were cut by using a 30 degree chamfer bit and holding the pieces vertically against the fence as the miter was cut.

Pedro
 
Mirko said:
hissatsu,

Could you explain to me the shellac process? I use only WB finish and find on lighter woods even with amber tint the dull melamine look is still apparent. I just finished a few dozen dovetailed beach wood drawer boxes and there is little to no contrast at the end grain >:( all that work for nothing! well they still look good though, I'm just very anal :o

Mirko

I prefer to use the term meticulous or detail conscious. ;D
 
I use Valspar enviro-plus, clear and they make a really nice white base lacquer that any paint store can tint.
My local supplier tints the clear stuff for me. and it works very nice on dark woods like cherry walnut and wenge, its just the light woods I have questionable feelings about

I gave the Target Coatings a try several jobs ago with no luck, I ended up adding to coats of tinted Valspar on top (it was walnut with a dark stain)
here is the linkhttp://www.valsparwood.com/valsparwood/products/enviroPlus.jsp

Mirko

PS.. I do NOT work for Valspar, nor did I receive free products!

 
hissatsu,

Is this the sealer you speak off?
f513f0b9-cb16-4568-a557-ae9704e39ab4_4.jpg


Mirko
 
Eiji Fuller said:
Mirko said:
hissatsu,

Could you explain to me the shellac process? I use only WB finish and find on lighter woods even with amber tint the dull melamine look is still apparent. I just finished a few dozen dovetailed beach wood drawer boxes and there is little to no contrast at the end grain >:( all that work for nothing! well they still look good though, I'm just very anal :o

Mirko

I prefer to use the term meticulous or detail conscious. ;D

Eiji,

From what I have seen from you, we have the same problem ;)

Mirko

 
Dan Clermont said:
Mirko said:
hissatsu,

Is this the sealer you speak off?
f513f0b9-cb16-4568-a557-ae9704e39ab4_4.jpg


Mirko

That is the French version.  ;D

Dan Clermont

I'm not so sure, especially since I can't read French, but the can resmbles the regular Zinser Shellac rather than the de-waxed version branded as Seal Coat. You need the de-waxed version if WB stuff goes on after.

Mirco, give Target another try, they have a WB shellac that really works. Don't ask me how they make it.
 
That pic was from the Canadian Home Depot site,  I had a look on the Yankee version, didn't find it, seems they don't carry it!

I would like to add that not only did they fail at having what I needed, but the site was harder to navigate and only in one language :D

Mirko
 
Mirko,

This is the the shellac I mentioned: Zinsser Sealcoat. Whatever the language, it should mention being wax free on the can. If it is not wax free, you will probably have problems getting other finishes to adhere properly.

Pedro
 
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