A LR32 video. The last video of the series. Video 7

[galwaydude18@gmail.com]

Excellent video! The entire series so far has been brilliant and your explanations have been very detailed! I can't wait for the next video

 

[PeterK]

Great videos! Really shows the system well.

I have built some cabinets for electronics and find the 32mm spacing to be too far apart ~1 1/4" spaced holes. I find 1" spacing works better and gives less wasted cabinet space. Wish they had an Imperial holey rail with the 1" spacing. Last one I did was using a self centering drill bit and a Woodhaven guide but got way too much tear out on the holes. The router works so much better. Guess I will just have to accept the 32mm spacing.

 

[hitandruntz]

thanks for taking the time to do this series. I just got into festool and I made the Lr32 a high priority. so far I have done 3 small cabinet jobs and I love this thing and the 32mm system. I wish I learned it years ago. I really like the marker  Idea because I was watching other videos of people using stickers and having 4 or 5 stickers on certain holes and that just confuses me and is a set up for me to make a mistake. some times I go on autopilot and could easily drill holes I didn't intend to. but a wipe away marker is sweet cause I can lay out whatever project is on the table like the uppers and then erase those and relayout for the base cabs. that's something that I count on for me to make the least amount of mistakes.

i do have a question for you though, and hopefully I'm not jumping the gun on part 4. when laying out for drawer slides and using the 5mm euro screws how are you laying out the back hole. is there a certain number for for each size slide that's easy to figure out or do you just measure center of first hole(37mm from front edge) to center of the last hole and lay that out on your panel and reset the parallel guides to that? so far that's what Ive been doing and it has worked out great. my only issue with it is that I generally like to grab a panel and do all the work to it then grab the next panel and so on.  thanks again -John

 

[erock]

thanks for taking the time to do this series. I just got into festool and I made the Lr32 a high priority. so far I have done 3 small cabinet jobs and I love this thing and the 32mm system. I wish I learned it years ago. I really like the marker  Idea because I was watching other videos of people using stickers and having 4 or 5 stickers on certain holes and that just confuses me and is a set up for me to make a mistake. some times I go on autopilot and could easily drill holes I didn't intend to. but a wipe away marker is sweet cause I can lay out whatever project is on the table like the uppers and then erase those and relayout for the base cabs. that's something that I count on for me to make the least amount of mistakes.

i do have a question for you though, and hopefully I'm not jumping the gun on part 4. when laying out for drawer slides and using the 5mm euro screws how are you laying out the back hole. is there a certain number for for each size slide that's easy to figure out or do you just measure center of first hole(37mm from front edge) to center of the last hole and lay that out on your panel and reset the parallel guides to that? so far that's what Ive been doing and it has worked out great. my only issue with it is that I generally like to grab a panel and do all the work to it then grab the next panel and so on.  thanks again -John

  It depends on the style of drawer slides and the length that I'm using.    The Blum under mount don't reach to back of the cabinets and the holes are closer

to the front so I would just pull a measurement off the slide for my hole locations, write it down for future reference.  I have a couple different style of slides

laying around that I plan on figuring out the hole locations for future use.  I should have saved the instructions, because they tell you the hole locations

( if I recall correctly?)  I think what I will do is keep a cheat sheet with the LR32 systainer. 

You are jumping the gun a bit  [wink].    I'm planning on doing a video on base cabinets in the future. 

Thanks for watching!

Eric

 

[skids]

Good vid mang! Question..Did you do the third video on the Kapex MFT?

 

[erock]

Good vid mang! Question..Did you do the third video on the Kapex MFT?

No sir....It's  the MFT 800.  I have a MFT 800, 1080 and MFT/3.  The 800 and 1080 are older model MFT's and shorter then the MFT/3.

I'm not sure what the height is on the Kapex MFT, it may or may not be the same as the MFT800.

Eric

 

[skids]

Good vid mang! Question..Did you do the third video on the Kapex MFT?

No sir....It's  the MFT 800.   I have a MFT 800, 1080 and MFT/3.   The 800 and 1080 are older model MFT's and shorter then the MFT/3.

I'm not sure what the height is on the Kapex MFT, it may or may not be the same as the MFT800.

Eric

Ahh yes, that makes sense..I need that MFT table to take this hobby of mine to the next level.  [wink]

 

[erock]

Good vid mang! Question..Did you do the third video on the Kapex MFT?

No sir....It's  the MFT 800.   I have a MFT 800, 1080 and MFT/3.   The 800 and 1080 are older model MFT's and shorter then the MFT/3.

I'm not sure what the height is on the Kapex MFT, it may or may not be the same as the MFT800.

Eric

Ahh yes, that makes sense..I need that MFT table to take this hobby of mine to the next level.  [wink]

  Honestly, the MFT800 is a great work table.  I use it for everything.  I didn't think I would use it a lot when I first bought it.  I had my Kapex on it

for the longest time.  But since I rearranged my shop, the MFT800 has been my most used MFT.  It looks small but can handle all my task. 

If you get the chance check out the Kapex MFT.  I would love to add one too my MFT collection.

Eric

 

[skids]

Good vid mang! Question..Did you do the third video on the Kapex MFT?

No sir....It's  the MFT 800.  I have a MFT 800, 1080 and MFT/3.  The 800 and 1080 are older model MFT's and shorter then the MFT/3.

I'm not sure what the height is on the Kapex MFT, it may or may not be the same as the MFT800.

Eric

Ahh yes, that makes sense..I need that MFT table to take this hobby of mine to the next level.  [wink]

  Honestly, the MFT800 is a great work table.  I use it for everything.  I didn't think I would use it a lot when I first bought it.  I had my Kapex on it

for the longest time.  But since I rearranged my shop, the MFT800 has been my most used MFT.  It looks small but can handle all my task. 

If you get the chance check out the Kapex MFT.  I would love to add one too my MFT collection.

Eric

I think I need the full blown table for what I plan on getting into. I am wrestling with whether I get my router first of just get the table first. Both would be best, but thats not going to happen right now. It's a sickness I have since I discovered Festool

 

[fritter63]

Great vids, thanks Eric.

Making my sysports this week, will adjust the height to multiple of 32 now!

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

Great videos and thanks for explaining how to use it in a easy to follow manner.  Getting the lr32 tomorrow

 

[Bikeboy80]

I have a 1010 on it's way, guess I need to get the LR32 set next [blink]

Thanks for the great, easy to follow videos!

 

[skids]

I have a 1010 on it's way, guess I need to get the LR32 set next [blink]

Thanks for the great, easy to follow videos!

Nice..I want one. Let me know how you like it.

 

[unityroad]

nice job. [smile]

 

[sancho57]

Good job eric,

Thanks for going through the trouble and spending the time for filming and posting these videos.

 

[erock]

  Hey guys....here is part 4 of the series.  It talks about the 35mm cup hinge for the doors.  Enjoy!

Thanks for all the positive feed back !   [cool]



Eric

 

[Rocky]

What brand hinges/plates do you recommend?  Where do you get yours from?

Thanks

 

[erock]

What brand hinges/plates do you recommend?  Where do you get yours from?

Thanks

Michael,

    In the video I used GRASS hinges.  I think the  model is 231.M    it's what is stamped on the back of the hinge. 

My local woodworker store sell them for a couple bucks.  They are just like the Blum hinges.  I'm sure you can find them just about any

brick an mortar store and online. 

Eric

 

[butzla]

That works fine but for overhead clearances, don't you want your door 1/4 shy of the height of your cabinets?  What  then?

 

[erock]

That works fine but for overhead clearances, don't you want your door 1/4 shy of the height of your cabinets?  What  then?

Jim,

  Good question !

  I'm not a professional cabinet installer.  So maybe one of those guys can chime in and answer that a little better then me.

But my guess would be if I was to install my cabinets up against the ceiling I would want to use a half overlay hinge or of the like. I wouldn't use

a full overlay hinge if I was installing the cabinets up against the ceiling because I know the drywall/plaster is not going to be perfectly flat and level

with the wall the cabinet is being hung on.  So if you want to hang a cabinet flush with the ceiling then I would suggest using a different overhang with

the hinge. 

  Also, If I wanted to, I could drill the holes for the 35mm cut hinge with the door still in a increment of 32mm and then take a couple mm's off the top and/or 

bottom to achieve some type of clearance or reveal.  But the sides of the cabinets would still have a full overlay. 

  I never planned on mounting the cabinets up to the ceiling, I have 10 foot ceilings in my garage  [tongue]  [big grin].

Eric