MB40 vs LR32?

[bnsrx]

I was doing a job the other day that could have benefited from an MB40, but being in the States I have to wait. In the meantime I started researching it and - it seems like it does a lot of similar stuff to the LR32 system, without needing quite as much hardware and for about 35% of the price. The main difference obviously is that one uses a router, the other uses a drill - but for this purpose, a router is probably overkill.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the matter? I might well have missed some crucial detail. Thanks!

....edit to add - I asked ChatGPT, and it gave me this:

• Choose the Festool LR 32 System if you need high-volume, long-series hole drilling in cabinetry, and you're already set up with a router + guide rail workflow.
• Choose the MB 40 Attachment if you're after a fast, portable solution using your cordless drill, especially for short runs or quick in-field drilling. It's a lean, flexible tool—great for spot jobs, hinge drilling, or small woodworking tasks with decent repeat accuracy.

 

[usernumber1]

I honestly don't think either is good for any serious LR32 production. These holes really have to be within 0.5mm on both sides of the carcass and the taller or deeper the box, the more compounding of errors you get.

The festool LR 32 system can be made to work but it's so faffy - I made so many modifications and I still hate it. The router part is great and the holes are perfect but the indexing, referencing and setting up is not. Even once you dial it in, have to walk on eggshells not to bump it the wrong way or find some way to offend it. Then a month later forget all the small details to get going again

I wouldn't even imagine to try anything more than a few holes with a drill press and that's not really LR32

 

[bnsrx]

Fair, yeah - I can imagine that the MB40 creeps out of alignment pretty quickly. I'm (a little) surprised to hear that the LR is so finicky though; looking at it, there seems like very little that can go wrong.

 

[WillettBarrel]

I've not personally had issues not indexing or referencing LR32 with accuracy. I actually use my LR32 to make MFT tops, as well cabinetry. It is a bit cumbersome to learn the first time. But I find it quick and accurate once it's going.

I also have the MB. I haven't used it for any LR32 type work yet. But I actually tend to agree with what AI told you in this case. If you're adding to an existing cabinet, doing a small run, or just do LR32 holes very infrequently, MB40 can meet your needs. Long runs, high volume, or just very frequent use would likely benefit from the LR32.

Again, I've not had accuracy issues with LR32. But I'm also not sure the MB would be a great solution, if that's something you're concerned about. In fact, I'd think it'd amplify the issue.

The MB would still leverage a guide rail for straightness, but standard guide rails lack the setup blocks of the LR32. So initial referencing may be less accurate. And then the MB drills each hole indexed off the one before it, so that error would propagate. If there is error in that setup, getting four rows of LR32 holes (for shelf pins as example) to all repeat the same error with consistency would be a challenge.

LR32 references the guide rail for both straightness and hole indexing. Assuming you have a balanced panel and proper setup blocks, you're not changing that jig from one row of holes to the next. So any error is kept consistent and doesn't propagate.

 

[Leemstradamus]

The MB looked pretty good to me initially but then I saw it's limitations and decided against it. The LR32 can be cumbersome to learn but once you understand it. It's a joy. I gave up on the indexing guides and measured the distance from my track edge to the bit center to be 24mm. I just draw a line for the second column 24mm away and go to town, has worked pretty well for me.

 

[Cheese]

I was doing a job the other day that could have benefited from an MB40, but being in the States I have to wait. In the meantime I started researching it and - it seems like it does a lot of similar stuff to the LR32 system, without needing quite as much hardware and for about 35% of the price. The main difference obviously is that one uses a router, the other uses a drill - but for this purpose, a router is probably overkill.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the matter? I might well have missed some crucial detail. Thanks!

....edit to add - I asked ChatGPT, and it gave me this:

• Choose the Festool LR 32 System if you need high-volume, long-series hole drilling in cabinetry, and you're already set up with a router + guide rail workflow.
• Choose the MB 40 Attachment if you're after a fast, portable solution using your cordless drill, especially for short runs or quick in-field drilling. It's a lean, flexible tool—great for spot jobs, hinge drilling, or small woodworking tasks with decent repeat accuracy.

The red text in the thread above is pretty much directly from Festool. Festool also released a video and they show adding only 5 holes to each series of shelf pin holes. And here's a section from the MB 40 manual.

 

[P_K]

There's a few options already out there.

Woodpeckers Shelf Pin and Drawer Slide Template

More videos are available in the Video tab below. Adjustable shelf pins have become a standard in cabinet design. Adding them to your existing cabinets makes them more versatile while avoiding the expense, time and mess of a complete renovation. Woodpeckers Shelf Pin and Drawer Slide Template...

www.woodpeck.com

Auto-Line Drill Guide

More videos are available in the Video tab below. There are those among us who can pick up a drill, place it on a workpiece and drill a straight hole. Then, there are the remaining 99.9% of us. A drill press solves the problem…as long as the piece you want to drill fits. But if you’re not one of...

www.woodpeck.com

 

[Leemstradamus]

There's a few options already out there.

Woodpeckers Shelf Pin and Drawer Slide Template

More videos are available in the Video tab below. Adjustable shelf pins have become a standard in cabinet design. Adding them to your existing cabinets makes them more versatile while avoiding the expense, time and mess of a complete renovation. Woodpeckers Shelf Pin and Drawer Slide Template...

www.woodpeck.com

Auto-Line Drill Guide

More videos are available in the Video tab below. There are those among us who can pick up a drill, place it on a workpiece and drill a straight hole. Then, there are the remaining 99.9% of us. A drill press solves the problem…as long as the piece you want to drill fits. But if you’re not one of...

www.woodpeck.com

I have the previous version of the woodpeckers shelf pin jig and the new one you pictured. They are good.

 

[P_K]

I've also got this one. It's a a little more cumbersome than the Woodpeck version and requires a metric router bushing but reasonably fast to drill out a set of cabinet sides once you get the hang of it. Both cost significantly less than the LR32.

System 32 Router Template - Phenolic Resin

System 32 Router Template - Phenolic Resin MFS-3202 - exclusively only at sautershop.com! We would be pleased to advise you under 08143/ 99 129 0.

www.sautershop.com

 

[rmhinden]

I purchased an MB-40 last July, I also have the LR-32, a drill press, and a Rockler drill guide. I got the MB-40 to replace the Rockler drill guide because the MB-40 is designed to work with Festool fast fix drills. The Rocker was always a pain to setup. The MB-40 also has a nice depth gauge.

It's another tool where you need to bring the tool to the work and want to drill vertical holes at a set depth. I will still use my drill press for smaller items. The edge guide and Festool rail adapter are nice as well. I had to make something to do that with the Rockler for a project. This makes it easier.

While it has some ability to do series of holes, it not as accurate as the LR-32 nor I think intended as a replacement. I think it pretty specialized as it only really works with Festool drills. I think it does that very well and was worth it for me.

Bob