A LR32 video. The last video of the series. Video 7

[mastercabman]

That works fine but for overhead clearances, don't you want your door 1/4 shy of the height of your cabinets?  What  then?

Jim,

  Good question !

   I'm not a professional cabinet installer.  So maybe one of those guys can chime in and answer that a little better then me.

But my guess would be if I was to install my cabinets up against the ceiling I would want to use a half overlay hinge or of the like. I wouldn't use

a full overlay hinge if I was installing the cabinets up against the ceiling because I know the drywall/plaster is not going to be perfectly flat and level

with the wall the cabinet is being hung on.  So if you want to hang a cabinet flush with the ceiling then I would suggest using a different overhang with

the hinge. 

  Also, If I wanted to, I could drill the holes for the 35mm cut hinge with the door still in a increment of 32mm and then take a couple mm's off the top and/or 

bottom to achieve some type of clearance or reveal.  But the sides of the cabinets would still have a full overlay. 

  I never planned on mounting the cabinets up to the ceiling, I have 10 foot ceilings in my garage   [tongue]  [big grin].

Ericveal

Most framless cabinets have a 3mm reveal(top,bottom and sides)So you would need to make the doors 6mm smaller than the box.I have installed cabinets that had doors same height as the box.I had a real problem with some of the bases cabinets because after adjusting the doors some would hang up on the edge of the counter top.
Leaving a 3mm reveal gap allowes for adjustment and looks.
Just another reason why i did not go with the full 32mm kit.I have the BLUM ecodrill jig and finds it much faster to use for drilling the hinges holes.The jig not only drills the 35mm cup hole but also drills the 8mm holes for the plastic insert for the screws.

 

[erock]

Thanks Mastercabman,

In the research I have done on the True32 system I remember the 3mm reveal.  That gives you the true zero  reveal.   And honestly that slipped my mind.

I know that with the true 32 method, the doors and drawers should be in increments of 32 +/- the reveal.  But since I planned on installing my cabinets

the way I did, I didn't bother cutting the 3mm for the reveal.  

Eric

 

[copcarcollector]

Eric - THANKS for the videos--

 

[Rocky]

Is the centering mandrel only used with the OF 1010?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Is the centering mandrel only used with the OF 1010?

I'd recommend you use the centering mandrel with both the 1010 and 1400 router.

 

[Rocky]

Reason I ask was that the 1400 is screwed to the base.  Shouldn"t that automatically center it and is there enough play when screwing to plate to allow manual centering?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Reason I ask was that the 1400 is screwed to the base.  Shouldn"t that automatically center it and is there enough play when screwing to plate to allow manual centering?

Well, there is a very small amount of slop.  It only takes a few extra seconds to to use the mandrel so it's worth it just to be sure none of your holes get out of line.  

 

[Rocky]

Does the same rule apply when mounting in cms?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Does the same rule apply when mounting in cms?

There is no centering mandrel for the CMS, there are mounting rings included to center the routers. 

 

[RDMuller]

Excellent job.  Please continue adding segments.  At a retail level, I have taken this LR32 system back and refunded the money to the customer as they just could not figure it out.  These videos would have met his needs.  Your instructional style is great.

I have done some videos in the past (parallel guides and extensions) and just could not get excited about doing a series on LR32 as I have 3 other technologies to do this including a Delta 13-drill machine, a Blum 5 or 7 hole machine, and off course the plastic guides sold by several retailers.  All have pluses and minuses.

Keep up the good work.

 

[Connollyir]

That works fine but for overhead clearances, don't you want your door 1/4 shy of the height of your cabinets?  What  then?

Jim,

  Good question !

   I'm not a professional cabinet installer.  So maybe one of those guys can chime in and answer that a little better then me.

But my guess would be if I was to install my cabinets up against the ceiling I would want to use a half overlay hinge or of the like. I wouldn't use

a full overlay hinge if I was installing the cabinets up against the ceiling because I know the drywall/plaster is not going to be perfectly flat and level

with the wall the cabinet is being hung on.  So if you want to hang a cabinet flush with the ceiling then I would suggest using a different overhang with

the hinge. 

  Also, If I wanted to, I could drill the holes for the 35mm cut hinge with the door still in a increment of 32mm and then take a couple mm's off the top and/or 

bottom to achieve some type of clearance or reveal.  But the sides of the cabinets would still have a full overlay. 

  I never planned on mounting the cabinets up to the ceiling, I have 10 foot ceilings in my garage   [tongue]  [big grin].

Ericveal

Most framless cabinets have a 3mm reveal(top,bottom and sides)So you would need to make the doors 6mm smaller than the box.I have installed cabinets that had doors same height as the box.I had a real problem with some of the bases cabinets because after adjusting the doors some would hang up on the edge of the counter top.
Leaving a 3mm reveal gap allowes for adjustment and looks.
Just another reason why i did not go with the full 32mm kit.I have the BLUM ecodrill jig and finds it much faster to use for drilling the hinges holes.The jig not only drills the 35mm cup hole but also drills the 8mm holes for the plastic insert for the screws.

I have also had this same problem with countertops usually, our upper cabinets many times are held shy of the ceiling to correct for level anyway and we scribe moulding to cover the gap.

I really appreciate this video series and timely too considering I am probably going to purchase the system for my next job. I would appreciate a video on face frame applications as well since they are more common for me.

-Ian

 

[gtriderr]

I am a hobbyist woodworker and spend evenings when wife and I are watching TV, especially in winter, reading posts on FOG.

I have always used my drill press to drill hinge mounting holes and a Rockler jig for shelf pins.  Just picked up the LR 32 and a OF 1010 router and have enjoyed watching your videos on the use of the LR 32.  # 4 video put it all together and I wanted to drop a line or two and say, great job and thanks.

John Stevens

 

[erock]

I am a hobbyist woodworker and spend evenings when wife and I are watching TV, especially in winter, reading posts on FOG.

I have always used my drill press to drill hinge mounting holes and a Rockler jig for shelf pins.  Just picked up the LR 32 and a OF 1010 router and have enjoyed watching your videos on the use of the LR 32.  # 4 video put it all together and I wanted to drop a line or two and say, great job and thanks.

John Stevens

Hey John,  [welcome]  and  [thanks]

I hope you get time to  learn the LR32 system and keep us updated on some project you use it on.

And to all the other guys, Thanks for the kind words.  I'm glad you have enjoyed the videos.  I'm brainstorming on the next video that will talk a little about
a base cabinet. 

Eric

 

[Wooden Skye]

Eric

Great videos, nice beanie!  After this series, you should do a video of the drawers you did using the domino and domiplate.  I saved this article, but a video would be a bonus.

 

[erock]

Eric

Great videos, nice beanie!  After this series, you should do a video of the drawers you did using the domino and domiplate.  I saved this article, but a video would be a bonus.

Bryan,  I believe BuilderBob did a video on making a drawer with the Domino.  He didn't use the Domiplate.
I think I remember seeing the video on Youtube about 6 months ago. 

If their is enough interest I would do a video making a drawer with the Domiplate. 

And let me publicly say  [thanks]  for the beanie cap!  It's a great community we are part of. The way  guys  reach out and help each other is just fantactic!

Eric

 

[skids]

Eric

Great videos, nice beanie!  After this series, you should do a video of the drawers you did using the domino and domiplate.  I saved this article, but a video would be a bonus.

Bryan,  I believe BuilderBob did a video on making a drawer with the Domino.  He didn't use the Domiplate.
I think I remember seeing the video on Youtube about 6 months ago. 

If their is enough interest I would do a video making a drawer with the Domiplate.  And let me publicly say  [thanks]  for the beanie cap!   It's a great community we are part of. The way  guys  reach out and help each other is just fantactic!

Eric

Interested

 

[erock]

Well, I finally got some free time to record and edit part 5 of my LR32 series.  This video talks a little about a base cabinet.

Grab your cutie with a glass of white wine and cuddle up too the computer with her and watch this one.  [eek]

                   

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ofnq3pQmZgA&            feature=youtu.be

Let me know what you crazy cats think. 

Thanks,
Eric

 

[sprior]

I think these videos have been great and really helpful.  What I'd like to see is a real start to finish video how you make a wall/base cabinet - when do you allow for the dimensions of and apply edge banding to the sheet goods?  I wonder if you cut one edge, apply the edge banding, then use that as a reference to cut the other edge?  Is it the same when making your cross cuts?  So are the edges already finished by the time you're making the LR32 holes?  Are you using Domino's for the joinery?  How are you allowing for mounting the cabinets to the wall - french cleat or something else?

 

[erock]

I think these videos have been great and really helpful.  What I'd like to see is a real start to finish video how you make a wall/base cabinet - when do you allow for the dimensions of and apply edge banding to the sheet goods?  I wonder if you cut one edge, apply the edge banding, then use that as a reference to cut the other edge?  Is it the same when making your cross cuts?  So are the edges already finished by the time you're making the LR32 holes?  Are you using Domino's for the joinery?  How are you allowing for mounting the cabinets to the wall - french cleat or something else?

Thanks for the positive feed back.  

I cut all my cabinet parts to size first.  Then I edge band them.  Following the edge banding I use the LR32 system.  The edge banding I use is iron on.

It adds about 1mm.  I'm sure it wouldn't make a difference if I edge banded after using the LR32 system.  

I do use a combo of 6mm domino's with pocket holes.  In fact, in one of the upcoming videos I had plan on showing how the domino helps with assembly.

So stay tuned buddy  [wink].

I mount my upper cabinets and base cabinets the same way.  I recess the backs of my cabinets 18mm, the thickness of the plywood I'm using to build

the cabinet.  That allows me to use a cleat (not a french cleat, because I don't cut a 45 on it).  The cleat attaches to the top and sides of my cabinets

and for me, it's a very strong method to hang a upper cabinet.  I used GRK 3-1/8" cabinet screws to hang the cabinets.

By me using a 5mm back panel for my cabinets it save on 18mm plywood, reduces the cost of the cabinet and reduces the weight of the cabinet.

I thought about making a video showing how to make a cabinet from start to finish, but I didn't think that many guys would be interested in it because

if you search Youtube for cabinets their is a few videos already out.  I'm trying my best to bring new material available to guys.   But, If I get enough

interest from people willing to see a video from start to finish of me using all my Festool tools, I may consider it.  

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Rocky]

+1 on start to finish. What size euro screws do you use?