A LR32 video. The last video of the series. Video 7

[fshanno]

I've used the 25mm Rockler version of the adjustable drawer fittings.  I like them.  If you're hand drilling the holes just make sure they are deep enough before you press in the gizmo because it's almost impossible to get it out if you are proud.  Course that's not the end of the world either cause you can always counter bore with a bigger Forstner bit to get the front to snug up.

On a five piece drawer front with narrow styles you can come close to running out of drawer box.

 

[erock]

I've used the 25mm Rockler version of the adjustable drawer fittings.  I like them.  If you're hand drilling the holes just make sure they are deep enough before you press in the gizmo because it's almost impossible to get it out if you are proud.  Course that's not the end of the world either cause you can always counter bore with a bigger Forstner bit to get the front to snug up.

On a five piece drawer front with narrow styles you can come close to running out of drawer box.

  Yeah,  The first time I used them I used a 20mm bit in the cordless drill.  I went to deep!  I had to place tape in the hole for them to fit properly.

Which is why I made up a template so I could use the OF1400 and get perfect depth.  [wink]

Eric

 

[JeromeM]

Thanks for the series. It has reenforced my decisions.

The first was getting the LR 32. It is a really useful system.

The second was to buy the OF1400 not the OF1010.

And the third was not to get an MFT but build a workbench with an MFT top.  I'm sure that mobile the MFT is a good choice but in a workshop it just isn't as stable as I want.

 

[markorjack]

Excellent videos, thanks very much

I had already ordered an LR32 set up but now I will know how to use it better when it arrives.

Well done!

 

[sprior]

erock,

What setup do you use to make the dado for the back of the cabinet (router table, edge guide, guide rail adapter, or something else)?

 

[erock]

erock,

What setup do you use to make the dado for the back of the cabinet (router table, edge guide, guide rail adapter, or something else)?

Sprior,
 
    I like using the edge guide with the OF1400. 

Say for example I'm breaking down a new sheet of plywood.  I will cut 5mm off first to remove the factory edge of the plywood.  Then set up my

parallel guides at 610mm (the standard depth of a base cabinet).  After I cut all the pieces that I need at 610mm I will break out the almighty OF1400

slap on the edge stop and set it up for the dado.  I route out the 5mm dado the full length of the plywood.

After I route out the dado I will take the piece over to the MFT/3, cut off the factory edge on one side.

Flip the piece so I can register off the fresh cut side.  Set the flag stop on the MFT/3 at the needed length and make my first cut.  Check for square by

measuring the diagonals of the board.  If all is well, proceed to cut the rest of the pieces needed. 

I like too route the dado first before I cut the cabinet parts to size.  This way I'm sure the dado's will line up on all four sides.  Having the OF1400

and edge guide for this task makes it very easy to route a dado in a 8 foot long piece of plywood.  I would never try to do that on a router table.  [scared]

Hope that helps.

Eric

 

[sprior]

I believe you're in the US, is 5mm plywood easy to get?

 

[erock]

I believe you're in the US, is 5mm plywood easy to get?

Sprior,

  My local Home Depot has 5mm plywood.  It's called "Tri-Ply" (I believe) it's basically 1/4" nominal plywood underlayment.  I use a Whiteside 1/4" plywood

dado bit to route the dado for the 5mm plywood and it's a perfect fit because it's undersized for 1/4" plywood. 

Eric 

 

[sprior]

Tonight I bought the OF1400 and LR32 kit and ran home and played with a scrap piece of melamine.  Based on the Festool setup video and having viewed your videos a few times I was able to calibrate the LR32 and drill a sample cabinet side panel and then 35mm door hinge holes all perfect on the first try.  The only thing I fumbled was I centered the router on the base before I calibrated the guide stops so I had to take the router off the base and do it again after - good practice.

Your videos made a complicated system pretty clear, thanks.

 

[sprior]

If you're willing, I could suggest a topic for part 8 of the series - how does the 32mm system come into play for the drawers?  You showed how you mounted the drawer hardware on the sides of the cabinet, but are the drawer heights also a multiple of 32mm?  How did you work out where to mount the drawer slide on the drawer itself?

 

[erock]

If you're willing, I could suggest a topic for part 8 of the series - how does the 32mm system come into play for the drawers?  You showed how you mounted the drawer hardware on the sides of the cabinet, but are the drawer heights also a multiple of 32mm?  How did you work out where to mount the drawer slide on the drawer itself?

Sprior,

    First, congrats on the new purchase!  The OF1400 is a great router, I'm sure you're gonna get along with it  nicely. 

As for the drawers, I didn't go over how to make a drawer box because of the amount of different drawer slides on the market.  The style I used in the video require a cut out on the bottom of the drawer for the slides to fit and work properly. 

The drawer box does not need to be a multiple of 32.  But the drawer front does, but minus the reveal you want. I keep my doors in multiples of 32, that way I can use the LR32 to drill out the cup hinges.  But since the drawer fronts don't receive functional hardware I subtract 6mm from my measurement for the drawer front.  Using the base cabinet template that I used in the video ( I believe video 5) I figure out how big my door and drawers will be and where I want to place the center rails.  Usually with the drawer slides they come with instructions so to tell you how much spacing you need for the slides to work properly.  The ones I used in the video stated that I needed to subtract 25mm from my opening on the sides and at lease 25mm from the top.  So doing that gave me the width and height of my drawer box.  Usually, 12mm is subtracted from each side of the drawer width for the drawer slide to work, but it depends on the style of drawer slide you are using.

Please keep in mind that I did not subtract a 3mm reveal for the sides of the doors and drawer.  If I was to install this cabinet next to another cabinet the drawer fronts would hit one another and the doors would also hit each other when I opened them.  So if you plan on having a run of base cabinets remember to account for the reveal for the sides of the cabinets.  Just another reason to play around with the LR32 and get figure out where you need your cup hinges.  My cup hinges were drilled out with the stop rods set at 23mm to put my cup hinge 5mm from the edge of the door using a full overlay cup hinge.  But if I set up the stop rods at 20mm, it will give me a 3mm reveal needed for proper function of the door if it was next to another door.

If you have scrap plywood, I would suggest making a base cabinet side panel template.  This will give  you a good visual on the size of drawer you need.
Also, it will help you locate your multiples of 32 and locate your center rails, if you use them. 

I hope this helps you out. 

Eric

 

[Acrobat]

Awesome, thanks for taking the time and videoing and explaining the LR32 device and system. Sure makes it alot easier to understand.
A couple of questions, does the depth of any cabinet have to be a multiple of 32 or only the height? And why is the back in 37mm and not say an even 40mm? Why such a large inset anyway? Is it so the back side edge doesn't break if it was closer?
thanks

 

[ajones]

Hi the backset is for the hinges,I allow for the back so the holes are equidistant front and rear, purely aesthetics

 

[Acrobat]

Eric, this is such a great series of videos, you've made the penny drop for me. +1 for a vid from start to finish. Basically because of your videos, I went and got the set so am looking forward to testing it out shortly. Gotta stop looking on here, it breaks my wallet wide open nearly every time!

 

[erock]

Eric, this is such a great series of videos, you've made the penny drop for me. +1 for a vid from start to finish. Basically because of your videos, I went and got the set so am looking forward to testing it out shortly. Gotta stop looking on here, it breaks my wallet wide open nearly every time!

Acrobat,

    Sorry for helping you pull out the wallet.  [tongue]

At for your first question,  the height is in multiples of 32.  The depth can be what ever you want.  But I know some guys on the FOG use the LR32
not in multiples in 32 with great accuracy.  Just remember to reference off the top or bottom of you work piece.

As for the back row of holes placed at 37mm not 40 is as Festoolfootstool mentioned, for aesthetics.  For a balance look on the panel.

As you will see, the LR32 gives you the flexibility to place the back row of holes where you feel fit.  But the front row should be centered at 37mm from the front edge of the cabinet for most euro hinges.

As for the large inset, I use a 18mm cleat or nailer to install my cabinets.  So I have some meat for the screw to hold on to. 

Keep us updated on the projects you build with your new tools.

Eric

 

[cliffp]

Eric, may thanks for the excellent videos which have shed a lot of light on the LR32 system. One question - when using the LR32 system with inset doors is it customary to use shims between the door panel and end stops to give the required inset?

 

[Sparktrician]

Well done video series, Eric!  The videos are just what I needed to get a better understanding of the LR 32 system.  Those feet that you used, are they the Akurum from Ikea?  These are the only feet I have found that resemble the ones you used. 

 

[RKA]

Eric,
Thanks for taking the time to put together these videos!  I've reviewed them once as an introduction which was enough to push me into ordering a 1400 and LR32 kit.  I'm going back through them a second and third time as I try to formulate a plan and design.  If all goes well I'll have new custom cabinets in the basement and garage.  Hopefully eventually the master bedroom closet will get something as well.  If all doesn't go well, I might need to build a fireplace, but that may need to happen either way, depending on how many cabinets I have to built before I understand the nuances.    Thanks again!

 

[erock]

Eric, may thanks for the excellent videos which have shed a lot of light on the LR32 system. One question - when using the LR32 system with inset doors is it customary to use shims between the door panel and end stops to give the required inset?

Cliff,  To be honest with you I never used inset hinges.  With inset hinges you must be perfectly square with your cabinet boxes and doors.  The clearance between the door and cabinet should be at lease 2mm with a inset hinge.  I much prefer overlay hinges to give me a little more tolerance for adjusting the doors. They are a little more forgiving. Even though I'm using some fine Festool machines, I know I can produce a square box.  I'm just not a fan of the inset doors. 

If I was to use a inset hinge I would  just make sure I always reference the end stop off the top or bottom of my door.  I personally always reference my end stops off the top of the cabinet.  Therefore, I should always reference my end stop off the top of the doors.  But, just like anything else, there are many ways to end up with the same outcome.  Some guys like to reference off the bottom of the cabinet, if you do, just remember to reference the end stop off the bottom of the door. 
I think either way will produce good results.  Putting shims between the end stops and work piece could be a bit time consuming, but that's just a guess, I've never tried it. 

Eric

 

[erock]

Well done video series, Eric!  The videos are just what I needed to get a better understanding of the LR 32 system.  Those feet that you used, are they the Akurum from Ikea?  These are the only feet I have found that resemble the ones you used. 

Willy,  Yes those are the Ikea  Akurum legs.  You can't beat the price! 

If you buy them and build something.....post pictures of what you built!

Eric