A mitre saw cutting question

[jo041326]

Hi all,
I was cutting just a triangular end from a board  20mm thick (45 deg). At the end of this cut, the chip was caught by the blade and smashed the plastic table insert into pieces and caused violent kickback of my Kapex. Have you some tipps how to cut just a small pieces? Until the saw is vertically at 0 deg, everything is OK. I had standard blade and middle speed (3).
Josef

 

[jonny round boy]

I'm guessing that you were cutting 45 degree bevel, rather than a mitre? And that, once free, the piece you cut off dropped into the path of the blade?

The best solution I could suggest would be to turn the board over (clamping it to stop it raising) and undercut the board, so that the waste piece falls away from the blade, not onto it.

You mentioned that the board is 20mm thick - how wide was it? If less than 4 or 5 inches, could you not place it upright against the back fence & mitre it?

I hope that makes sense...

BTW, I think the plastic insert is classed as a 'consumable' and is available as a standard spare part (as they will need replacing ever now and then anyway).

 

[jo041326]

Hi Jonny,
yes, it was bevel cut. In fact, it was more such bevel cuts. Some were OK, some caused kickback and the last one was really hard. Sometimes I was undercutting, sometimes not. The kickback occured even in case I was undercutting. Unfortunately the board was 15cm high, so it was impossible for my Kapex to cut it in upright position.
The table insert is a cheap spare part, so I ordered three pairs for such cases ;D
Josef

 

[Frank-Jan]

... and middle speed (3).
Josef

What is the advantage of selecting a speed lower than maximum for cutting wood? (I know it's recommended for plastics and aluminum) I'm just curious, because I have read other cases of kickback when using lower speed settings.

Frank-Jan

 

[Per Swenson]

Josef,

I don't own a Kapex yet, darnit, so I don't know if this pertains..

On all my miter saws I use a zero kerf insert, but when I lay it over Once each way

It is no longer zero kerf.

This is the how those chips get wedged.

Normally when I cut stuff I have overhang but if I have to be absolutely precise and remove

say, 3/16 to 3/8 ths or so, you know the size chip thats gonna fall in...

I have dedicated left and right saw kerf inserts.

Actually, maybe once a year I have to use em.

Per

 

[Mirko]

Whenever there is the chance where small pieces can get caught between blades, I nibble the material away. My sliding panel saw is particularly bad, and the piece can pinch and then flex the blade into the "good" side of your work destroying the cut finish.
I always turn those small bits into dust, avoiding a precarious situation.

Mirko

 

[ccmviking]

Use a sacrificial piece of wood under what you are cutting.  Would be like using a zero clearance insert which I haven't been able to find for my saw.  I'll also use a piece like a 1X3, 20"'s long or so to put up against the fence when I'm cutting something too small to hold square against the fence.  I can usually hold it square on my pseudo fence, but just be careful with smaller items.  I use both the MiterMaster and ChopMaster blades by Forrest and they seem to snag pieces less than some other blades I've used (I guess for now they won't fit the Kapex). 

Chris...