Accurate width cuts on the "waste side" using a MFT/3

[evanism]

Hi all. 

I don't have a panel saw, but I need panel saw like capability as I work with sheet goods a lot. About 70% of my work is with mdf and ply.

I have a good table saw, plus all the Incra stuff anyone old want, plus a MFT/3 and rails.

What I need to do is break the sheets down quickly into components, but I'm getting stuck on something that should be easy.

Many of the pieces to be cut are small. Only 80 or 120mm wide.

So, I've made my own jig, which is nice, but I've also purchased the rail clamp system from Seneca and the Incra rails. This allows arbitrary distances to be set and cut quickly and accurately.

But I keep thinking of the MFT and how it might be used to make cuts of small things.

I'd like to accurately cut off multiple slices on the visible waste-side of the rail, with the "waste" left under the rail.  It would then be slid across and the next piece cut off.... Zing zing zing, 150 units done....

But how does one account for the kerf of the saw? I hardly want to be measuring out 83.2 or 123.2mm for the stop (be it nice or just a block of wood, or whatever).

Anyone with any ideas?  

If I don't make sense, I'll include some pictures tomorrow.

 

[RKA]

I think you just need to set up a stop block/filler strip clamped to the last column of holes on the table (or just use dogs to support the strip as you slide the material across the table against the strip).  Use the kerf mark in the table to figure out the width of the filler strip you require.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Clamp a block to the outside face of the MFT frame rail on the right of the guide rail.

Clamp/rig something to guide and secure a strip of Incra T-track.
I suggest Incra because the scale can easily be slid to wherever the curser is located.

The goal is to use the left end of the track as a stop for the stock.

Pretty sketchy description but I'm sure you can work something out.

Just be sure to position the "stop" near the starting end of the workpiece so the workpiece doesn't get jammed against the spinning blade.

 

[squarecut]

Check this out -
It is what I use, however, in your case it would require moving your guide rail cut-line further left on the MFT to accommodate the jig length.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...-for-mft-repetitive-cuts/msg408435/#msg408435

 

[Peter_C]

^^ I would do it kinda like that. There are probably many ways.
http://www.woodpeck.com/dptrack.html#1203http://www.woodpeck.com/flipstop.htmlhttp://www.woodpeck.com/scaletrack.html#1222http://precisiondogs.us/products/precision-rail-dogs
Stick on measuring tapess can be had in either standard or metric.

Using a track with "0" at the end, I would use two rail dogs to hold it in place. Check to make sure it is square against the rail on the right hand side. Clamp a board in place and rip it. Now butt the track up to the cut. That sets the zero stop. Now you can use stops and have repeatable cuts on the off cut side.

Although I would just use my table saw sled for smaller stuff.

 

[JimD]

I made what I call a track positioning jig.  It grabs the rib of the track used to guide the saw in a dado for registration and has a movable stop with adjustable hairline pointer and a stick on scale.  The width adjustment is set to account for the blade thickness.  So to use, you set the width you want, slip the jig onto the track on one end, snug the stop block up against the workpiece, clamp, then do the other end and come back and check the first end.  It makes repetitive narrow rips pretty simple. 

You can also do this with a special setup for the Festool rip guide but it doesn't allow clamping.  My stock is not always flat so I like to clamp.  So my simple track positioning jigs are now my preferred method.  I have another one for when the keeper piece is under the track.

 

[tjbnwi]

A couple of options.

Tom

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

The angle gauge that comes with the MFT or the CMS can be used on the MFT to make cuts from 1 to 200mm when positioned at the side of the MFT. I've done this many times and never had a problem with kickback. There's a mm scale stuck to the angle gauge bar with a pointer that accounts for the kerf of the blade. Perfectly safe, quick and accurate so long as there's enough stock beneath the guide rail, though I have a piece of hardwood permanently fixed to my MFT as a continuation of the fence which helps to hold thin pieces in place at the end of the cut.