Adapter For Using Compact Routers With The Festool LR32 Guide

[Bob D.]

There are two versions of my adapter available:

- DeWalt DCW600 Cordless Plunge Router to LR32 Base Plate Adapter.
  (also fits the DeWalt 611 corded router since they share the same plunge base)
  (also fits the Porter-Cable 450PK corded router with plunge base since it is identical to the DeWalt)

- Makita RT0701c corded Router to LR32 Base Plate Adapter.
  (also fits the Makita XTR01Z cordless router since they share the same plunge base)

Here's a quick video I made showing the DeWalt adapter.


The DeWalt kit includes the adapter plate for the DeWalt DCW600b
or the Porter-Cable 450PK routers. They use the exact same plunge
base. So you can swap between those two if you have both.

The Makita kit has an adapter for the  Makita RT0701c corded and
XTR01Z cordless routers which both use the 196094-2 plunge base.

The ability to leave the plunge base attached (and centered) to the
LR32 Guide is what I believe gives it an advantage over using the
OF1010 or OF1400 routers. You can leave the base attached to the
LR32 Guide and remove the router to change bits or pop it in a
second plunge base or a fixed base and perform some other task
then jump right back in and drill some more holes because you're
all set up and ready to go. A second plunge base costs significantly
less than dedicating a second Festool router to the LR32 system.

Most compact routers use a 1/4" collet. As an alternative to tracking
down 1/4" shank bits you can get 6 and 8 mm collets from Elaire for
the DeWalt and for some other compact routers.

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member] mentioned this yesterday and provided a link to
their site which I have copied below. I bought collets for my
Makita RT0701C router from them not long ago and just ordered
a set of 6 & 8 mm collets for the DCW600b.
https://elairecorp.com/dewaltroutercollets.html

Since you will already have the LR32 System (or you wouldn't be
considering this to begin with) then the Elaire collets are probably
the easiest way to go. You can use the Festool centering guide
and the Festool bits which are included in the LR32 kit. But if you
want to use a 1/4" shank bit for some other task then you can use
the centering guide I provide and not have to switch collets back
and forth. Either way will get you where you need to be which is
centered on the Festool LR32 guide.

The kit includes the following 3D printed parts:

(1) Adapter designed to fit either the DeWalt or Makita compact router plunge base.
(2) M6 Knobs to lock the adapter down on the LR32 base
    (the Festool knobs will not work)
(1) Pin Lock which can be used to hold the LR32 pin in the
    raised position. This lets you use the router for dados
    or other tasks and not be limited to drilling holes at
    32mm increments.

Adapters for other routers should be possible depending on
the location of mounting holes. Please inquire if you have
a router other than the DeWalt or Makita models listed above.

Please go to this web site I have created to simplify ordering of all my items.

Also please note that prices have been reduced to remove shipping charges and allow more flexibility in ordering. With multiple options now including shipping in the price does not work. I've removed any reference to pricing above to avoid confusion. If you have already ordered there is no change in price. In the end it works out to be within a dollar in most cases and greater savings if buying multiple items.
http://cordlessworkshop.net/cordless-router-adapter-for-use-with-the-festool-lr32-system.shtml

I will be adding more items as I get time.

If you have questions please email me.

Bob Derderian

sparc@comcast.net

 

[GoingMyWay]

Your video is private.  Can you please make it public so we can see the video?

 

[Bob D.]

Sorry, it was changed a couple hours ago.

 

[DynaGlide]

I'll be the guinea pig on this one. I received the 20V Dewalt router as a Christmas gift looking for a use. I was going to dedicate it to 1/16" roundovers but this sounds even better.

A lot of folks love the 1010 for the LR-32. I'm not one of them. If the 1010 screwed to the LR-32 baseplate like the 1400 does I'd be fine with it. The clamping collars create room for error which has bit me in the past to where I don't trust it when I'm batching out system holes.

With this adapter I can just leave the plunge base setup and still use my 20V Dewalt for other things on the fixed base until I need to switch it over for line boring.

Matt

 

[Rick Herrick]

First off, thanks very much Bob, looks like an incredible amount of effort and research has gone into this.  I agree with Matt about the 1010 not being fully secure on the LR32.  Its all I have used but having another option that might be more secure is worth pursuing.  I have a DW 611 that could also serve as suitable guinea pig option. 

 

[rmwarren]

Bob provided me with an early prototype to test and I can confirm it's a great option. Print quality and fit are excellent. I'm waiting on the Elaire 8mm collet so I can make some holes but I have no doubt it'll work well.

Due to having a couple cnc that use the dewalt routers I've ended up over time with 3 routers and several extra bases, so it's a no brainer to dedicate a plunge base to the LR32 and swap out motors as needed.

Also agree with Matt regarding not trusting the 1010 to stay put. Bob's knobs [huh] secure the adapter tightly, I may fill in the small voids around the threaded studs with hot melt after I check alignment and bore some holes.

I have a 1010 that I bought solely for the LR32, it's going to be for sale soon.

RMW

 

[nicholam77]

Great work [member=60461]Bob D.[/member]

As you know I've been following the development of this in your other thread — it turned out excellent! If I didn't have the Dw618, I'd be a customer. I've been waiting for someone to do this (I only got a 3d printer recently), and to be honest I'm surprised someone hasn't yet. It's a fantastic idea and I hope you get some good sales out of it for doing the dirty work!

The Elaire collets are awesome, too, I did not know about those. I've been using collet reducer sleeves but I might have to pick up some actual metric collets.

Btw... random side note, I printed your end cap for the woodpecker's drill press fence recently and it came out great.  [big grin]

 

[Bob D.]

Thanks everyone. I am looking at making a version for the Makita RT0701 now.

But I need to find out if the screw hole pattern is the same as for the fixed base as all I have is the fixed base for my Makita. If I had that information I could have a kit ready for the Makita in about 24 hours.

 

[rmwarren]

Thanks everyone. I am looking at making a version for the Makita RT0701 now.

But I need to find out if the screw hole pattern is the same as for the fixed base as all I have is the fixed base for my Makita. If I had that information I could have a kit ready for the Makita in about 24 hours.

Bob, look on GrabCAD.
https://grabcad.com/library/makita-rt0701c-stock-base-plate-1

RMW

 

[Bob D.]

Thanks, I'll have a look.

 

[Bob D.]

I have a version for the Makita 196094-2 Compact Router Plunge Base ready
and it should be available this coming Monday. I just need to take some time
over the weekend to verify the fit and tweak the print parameters.
http://cordlessworkshop.net/cordless-router-adapter-for-use-with-the-festool-lr32-system.shtml

 

[DynaGlide]

I received Serial No. 1 from Bob today:

Everything looks like nice quality. I have to get a 3D printer one of these days. With the way the adapter attaches I don't see how anything can move on me during use. I removed the plunge lock mechanism on the Dewalt base since it defaults to a locked position. That way when I'm doing shelf pin holes I can just push down on the router motor reducing any possible chance of shifting the adapter relative to the LR-32 plate which is how I'd do it with the Festool routers.

Thanks Bob for coming up with this.

Matt

 

[Bob D.]

Thanks Matt. I'm working on a way to override the plunge lock without having to remove it.

[member=8712]Richard/RMW[/member] got me thinking about it now I can't let go.

 

[rmwarren]

I used Velcro.

[attachimg=1]

It was easier to reach than duct tape or bailing wire...

RMW

 

[DynaGlide]

That was my first thought as well

 

[Bob D.]

Yeah, I remember you mentioning that Richard. I am looking for
another way but so far that's about as easy as you can make it.

But if you're going to dedicate a plunge base to the LR32 guide
plate then removing the lock like Matt did might be the way to go.

I'm just dreaming of something in between those two possibilities.
Maybe I'll come up with something, maybe not. Doesn't hurt to try.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I wasn't aware that DeWalt went back to the "release to lock" lever? That was the thing that was so superior about the Porter Cable routers. It was my only real criticism of the Dewalt that I had. This problem still exists with Makita. I always wrestle with locking it and many times it still pops loose on its own.

 

[Bob D.]

The DeWalt is a spring-loaded to lock when you release the lever. You have to apply pressure to unlock the plunge action. That means for repetitive boring you need to keep the lever down or find a way to lock it in the open or released position, or remove it as Matt did.

My PC690 plunge base and the Milwaukee 5616-20 plunge base operate in the same manner.

 

[DynaGlide]

The DeWalt is a spring-loaded to lock when you release the lever. You have to apply pressure to unlock the plunge action. That means for repetitive boring you need to keep the lever down or find a way to lock it in the open or released position, or remove it as Matt did.

My PC690 plunge base and the Milwaukee 5616-20 plunge base operate in the same manner.

Bob if you were inclined to make something I bet those plunge handles thread in. It wouldn't be that hard to make a piece like your pin lock that inserts between the handle and plunge base to lock the mechanism.

I'm pretty confident this is getting dedicated to LR-32 work so I have no problem leaving the parts off. I'll toss them in with all my other modified tools parts.

Matt

 

[Bob D.]

Yup, that's what I meant when I said I was working on it.

I've been busy printing orders and keeping up with life
so that's cutting into design time.

Not a complaint, that's just what it is. [big grin]

I'm curious how many see the need for the 1/4" shaft centering guide.
If most are using the Festool guide with the 8mm shaft then maybe
I'll drop it since I dropped the increased the price but included shipping
at the $65 mark.

That would balance it all out for me as that would save over an hours work for
printing and any post-processing for that part. Looks like the PO just raised their
rate the other day as my first shipment cost $8.70 and 2 days later it's $10.15 a
pop for the same size/weight package.