Adding a Switch to the Shop Vac

[ChuckM]

I decided to add a Dust Deputy for the Drill Press dust collection, and use it with a spare small shop vac. The switch on the vac, however, is hard to press on and off, and I feared that it would break apart after repeated use. So, I made of use of an idle light switch (?) to control the shop vac via the hot wire (the vac's switch is left in the "ON" setting all the time). I hope you electricians would approve of this.

 

[Bob D.]

Wouldn't one of those auto-start switches be easier and 'sparky approved'.

This one that Rockler currently has listed looks like the exact same switch I bought from Sears 20+ years ago with the Craftsman label on it. Mine has held up well all these years and it worked great. Has two outlets that you can plug accessory tools into, and third where the main power tool gets connected. Just turn the switch on and all three outlets are hot. Turn the main tool off and the other tools shut down after a short delay.

I use my old Craftsman version of this switch with my Kreg Foreman pocket hold machine. I have a cheap bucket head vac connected to the Foremen and it starts and stops every time I make a pocket hole. works great and a 5 gallon bucket will collect swarf from hundreds of pocket holes.
https://www.rockler.com/i-socket-au...O8c2BC34IhQ-6eyx1jqYmKqP9-SGSxDhoCdTEQAvD_BwE

 

[rst]

I just got a 15 amp rated remote switch from Amazon that is sold as a remote garbage disposal switch to operate my Metabo vac.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.
Wouldn't one of those auto-start switches be easier and 'sparky approved'.

Bob,

That was the path I took...with no success. My autoswitch (see images) for some some reason didn't work for this set-up. When both machines were turned on, the shop vac kinda went up and down in its noise, as if it were to die or something. Not wanting to damage either the vac or the autoswitch, I did the electrical hack.

Do you think the autoswitch is under power (amp)?

 

[rvieceli]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] here’s what I have been using and it works well for me. I had gotten a cheap on/off foot switch for using with the vac on the drill press. Here’s a link to one at Harbor Freight but they are all over and basically the same Chinese import.
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html

They are frankly the poorest excuse for a foot switch ever. They’re too light, slide around etc etc.

BUT when I mounted it to the side of my drill press stand it makes a wonderful switch. I just slap it on and off. No looking or feeling around for a toggle switch. It is actually really great.

Try one.

[attachimg=1]

Ron

 

[six-point socket II]

Can't you get an inline cord/appliance switch, that is rated high enough for the shop vac?

Honestly, that taped up/shut light switch makes me cringe.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[ChuckM]

Can't you get an inline cord/appliance switch, that is rated high enough for the shop vac?

Honestly, that taped up/shut light switch makes me cringe.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Oliver,

I do have an inline cord switch...let me check its rating first.

I know little about code or electrical stuff. What's wrong with the wire/switch there? Sparks?

 

[Vondawg]

“I hope you Electricians would approve of this”...made me laugh out loud.
Thanks

 

[six-point socket II]

I know next to nothing about NorthAmerican/Canadian building/electrical code. But a switch that should basically go into a fire/flame resistant box inside a wall, is certainly not the right choice for "in the air, free hanging" inline installation.

I'm pretty sure it's also missing/lacking strain relief, which would be a good (necessary) thing to have for a switch that is installed inline.

The electrical tape, and whatever it is holding to protect the terminal, that's not ingress protection/protected and it doesn't sufficiently protect the user from electric shock ...

But honestly, thats just two details that come to mind immediately.

It really shouldn't be done this way.

If you go with an inline switch, please make sure it's really rated accordingly. No stunts/ try & error with electricity.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[ChuckM]

Thanks for your caution. Back to the drawing board for a safer solution. Will take another look at the Blue autoswitch.

 

[Peter_C]

This switch can be run off two independent circuits.https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

 

[ChuckM]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member] here’s what I have been using and it works well for me. 

BUT when I mounted it to the side of my drill press stand it makes a wonderful switch. I just slap it on and off. No looking or feeling around for a toggle switch. It is actually really great.

Try one.

Ron

Ron,

Your post reminded me of a foot switch I have had in the shop, collecting dust! But mine does not have an on/off two step feature like yours. Press, power on, and release the paddle, power off. I made a wedge to keep the paddle in the "ON" position.

Until I find a better solution, I'll keep this set up for now. I did check the switch and retried it, but it wouldn't work with the vac (8A) and drill press (2.4A). I suspect the autoswitch (rated for 20A) is somehow defective.

Thanks to Oliver and all, cautioning me against the potential electrical pitfalls.

 

[ChuckM]

This switch can be run off two independent circuits.https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

I have two of those, one for the SawStop and one for the Kapex. Just found it a bit spendy for my drill press that isn't used as much and that doesn't produce as much saw dust.

 

[Bob D.]

Snip.
Wouldn't one of those auto-start switches be easier and 'sparky approved'.

Bob,

That was the path I took...with no success. My autoswitch (see images) for some some reason didn't work for this set-up. When both machines were turned on, the shop vac kinda went up and down in its noise, as if it were to die or something. Not wanting to damage either the vac or the autoswitch, I did the electrical hack.

Do you think the autoswitch is under power (amp)?

Sounds like your total Amp draw for both tools may exceed or be close to the 20A limit. Remember that the startup or in-rush current for an electric motor will be greater (1.5 times, sometimes more) than the running amps which is what you will usually find listed on the tool.

 

[RKA]

A remote outlet/switch might be handy.  I use it to trigger the vac or other appliance from a distance, but you could use it here.  I use the one below, which is $17 shipped on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F9DGRL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Bob D.]

Here's one with three remote duplex outlets and one remote controller that can operate all three.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXB67S...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

 

[Koamolly]

If you have WiFi you can use a mini Wemo (or other brand) Smart plug and control on/off from phone or voice from anywhere, or button on plug.
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enable...spa?crid=3RGH12MS7UL24&dchild=1&keywords=wemo+mini+smart+plug&qid=1589906884&sprefix=Wemo%2Caps%2C248&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzU1hLMEgxWlVTTURSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA4OTk5REhENktYWEpWN1o5JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NDQ0NzExWVdJT0xYTVdLOVFGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[AstroKeith]

I have so far three machines that use my 'shop vac' (not a term we use in the UK!). I have a separate 20A spur from my fuse box that feeds sockets in the workshop marked with a red dot. This spur has a £12 Amazon current sensor that switches the vac on whenever any current is drawn on this spur.

 

[martin felder]

I appreciate all of the information.  I am about to get a used vintage Rockwell RAM Radial Drill press  found on ebay. I have looked for the right one for 7 years.  I am planning to do some upgrades for clamps, fence, maybe a power feed to raise and lower the head. 

I am very happy with my shop dust collection except my drill press.  I guess one reason I paid less attention is that drilling holes without a dust collector does not spew fine dust into my lungs.  However, it does make a mess of chips, especially with Forstner bits, and that gets under the wood and interferes with placing the boards flat for the next bit of drilling. 

I am changing my miter saw to have central collection instead of my CT-36 and so I was thinking I would use the CT-36 for a drill press dust collector.  The dust deputy seems good since without it, the bag would fill up quickly with not so fine chips.  I have been looking at semi flexible "Gooseneck" ducting that can be positioned for optimal suction during drilling.  Once I get the drill press, I will better be able to decide what may work best, but the bolted to the floor on-of switch for the dust collector seems nice.  I was thinking I would want to just have it so when the drill press is turned on, the CT-36 turns on, but now not so sure.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.  I was thinking I would want to just have it so when the drill press is turned on, the CT-36 turns on, but now not so sure.

Ideally, I'd like the vac to get started as soon as the drill press is turned on. But that is not as essential as for the table saw and mitre saw because the vac switch is close by, and as you said, drilling doesn't produce saw dust as a power saw.

I'm happy for now with the wedged foot-switch solution, but may change my mind if I find a good deal with an autoswitch.

My drill press table comes with a dust port. but to use it, I need to open up the split fence. Often I prefer or need to use the fence in its closed position. My current solution is to use a bendable/expandable hose, hooked up to the DD.