Adjusting the "toed in" blade angle on TS 75

edison

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Jan 4, 2008
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I was recently conducting test cuts with my brand new TS 75 and I kept having the same problem.  Every cut left a little scallop or scoop at the top edge of the end of a fresh cut.

I've since learned from a call to Festool and some savvy posters here that the TS 75 plunge saws are designed so that the lateral angle of the blade is toed in ever so slightly. This means that a piece of paper on a properly adjusted saw should fit between the rear of the blade and the cut you just finished, whereas the front of the blade should be touching the finished surface. Think of it as the saw being slightly pidgeon toed. 

Clearly this "toed in" angle was off, so, as the blade exited my cut, the back of the blade dug in more than the front slightly gouging the clamped piece and causing the little scallop I mentioned above.

So I made the requisite adjustments by loosening the T20 screws under the bevel knobs and sliding the saw ever-so-slightly so that it fits the shoe with more of a toed-in angle.  It took a number of intermediate cuts and adjustments to finally get it to where its cutting clean with no gouging at the end.

So HERE'S what has me bothered...

The toed-in angle is MAXED OUT.  In other words, I've shoved the front of the shoe as far to right as it goes and the back of the shoe as far left as it goes. It seems to finally cut cleanly, but I keep thinking this can't possibly be right. I shouldn't have to max it out to get the minimum clearance. What if it needs more adjustment down the road?  Is it possible the blade itself is not seated properly?

Another problem with this is that the front of the blade now cuts EXTREMELY close to the aluminum on the guide rail.  There's only about 1mm of the rubber splinter guard showing and that has me a little sketched.

Its entirely possible that I'm complaining about nothing.  After all, it seems to be cutting well now.  So feel free to chime in with some mockery.  But something just doesn't feel right and I'm hoping there's some other detail that I'm missing.

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS!!
 
Are you experiencing this with every cut, or just when you approach the end of the guide rail? 

My first few cuts were like this until I realized that I was running the TS too far off the guide rail (the saw was still supported, but the front guide adjustment was coming off the rail).
 
I thought I posted a reply the day you put this up, that's what I was going to ask. How long past your work does the rail go?
 
Thanks so much for the replies!
A local dealer suggested the same thing, but unfortunately we ruled it out.
The sniping happened right at the end of every cut regardless of where the saw was along the rail.  In other words, both front and back guides were snugly on the rail every time.  The problem was definitely the blade angle and it appears to be okay now, but again, its just strange to me that I had to max out the adjustment.
 
edison said:
"So HERE'S what has me bothered...

The toed-in angle is MAXED OUT.  In other words, I've shoved the front of the shoe as far to right as it goes and the back of the shoe as far left as it goes. It seems to finally cut cleanly, but I keep thinking this can't possibly be right. I shouldn't have to max it out to get the minimum clearance. What if it needs more adjustment down the road?  Is it possible the blade itself is not seated properly?

Another problem with this is that the front of the blade now cuts EXTREMELY close to the aluminum on the guide rail.  There's only about 1mm of the rubber splinter guard showing and that has me a little sketched."

...The problem was definitely the blade angle and it appears to be okay now, but again, its just strange to me that I had to max out the adjustment.

Eiji F reminded us yesterday of another problem with..."the TS75 not cutting at the point of entry during bevel cuts." If I recall, he and Milo had that problem and that Eiji's solution was to shim the mounting blocks up with thin melamine stock.

It sounds like there may be a problem with the TS75 mounting blocks. Any other TS75 owners with these issues?
 
I had originally used plastic laminate for shims, but the height wasnt perfect. I have credit card shims plus a slice of blue tape.  The 45 deg cuts are spot on now.

1 - 1.5 mm of rubber is all that is showing on my guide rails which I think is fine. but be careful a little kickback and the blade could eat some aluminum. I know.

Eiji
 
Yep, but those Festool blades survive the ordeal rather well.  ;D

I also know...  and twice in a row just to make sure I wouldn't soon forget.  :'(
 
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