Harry_]I would think I would notice this in other cuts said:
Rick, the TS 75 cuts close to the guide rail already.
Reducing the thickness of the arbor flange would pretty much eliminate the splinter guard.
First off, the position away from the guide rail can be adjusted, which is the adjustment I mistakenly suggested in my first posting. ("Matching the TS55 to an Existing Guide Rail").
Raising the saw up with shims may or may not be the correct solution, depending on the actual cause. If the saw height is not the actual cause, then shimming will not correct for other angles besides 90 and 45. (
Edit: I think the edit you made while I was typing this alludes to this.)
For example, if he raises his saw by the 1/8" necessary to correct the spacing at 45 degrees, then he will still be too far away from the splinter guard for angles less than 45.
The easiest way to identify whether the blade is too far away versus raising the saw, is to make duplicate cuts at different angles. If the problem is due to height (the shimming solution), then
all angles will cut at exactly the same location, and you will have a sharp edge on the multiple cuts. To check this, do the following:
- Use a piece of wood that cuts easy, but not plywood. Something like poplar or pine will work good. You need to be able to see the sharp corner left behind.
- DO NOT make a 90 degree cut.
- Make your first cut at about 20 degrees, and about 6 inches long (stop short of cutting the whole length).
- Next, set the saw to 45 degrees and first make the cut about 3 inches long before checking the result (stop short of the 20 degree cut).
- After checking the result, continue the cut past the original 20 degree cut, and again check the result.
If shimming the saw is the correct solution, then you should not be able to distinguish the edge between the 20 and 45 degree cuts. They should both meet at the same sharp edge. The reason why I have you check the results before and after meeting up with the original cut is that sometimes you can't distinguish a slightly blunted edge, so this shows you both versions.
If the actual problem is the result of the blade being too far laterally from the pivot point (the brake pad thickness idea), then cuts at different angles will not meet at the same point. When you completed the procedure above, you will see a result similar to what is shown below. Notice that the area colored in Red cuts into the 45 degree point.
Oh, by the way; Even though I drew this as though I cut the 20 degree angle first, you will actually see a more noticeable result if you use the same procedure above (including the before/after inspection), if you cut the 45 degree cut before you make the 20 degree cut. By doing this, you will see a sharp jog in the point of the cut. I don't show it in the model, but the 45 degree cut is at the corner of the board, so the jog I refer to will be the same as what is shown between the 20 degree and 90 degree cut (that I told you not to make). Does that part make sense, or do I need to explain that better?
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