Advice Needed. Another update to the kitchen counter top.

[BarrySumpter]

A folllow up query from here:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...sander-for-all-round-use/msg616052/#msg616052

I've used osmo top oil for our kitchen counter top.
The gorgeous lady was happy with the light colour left after sanding.

Later she wanted it black so was going to use that glue on specks product.
But never got the go ahead.  So sold the product.

Now she's thinking of laminating the counter top.

Do I need to sand the osmo off before laminating?

Does anyone know if I should laminate the kitchen counter top?
Would i be wasting my time?

Anyone know of a better way to black the counter top?

Thanks in advance.

 

[luvmytoolz]

If you're planning on laminating that makes it easier, just use the roughest grit discs you have, 60/80 or so, and go at it until most of the fibres are exposed, doesn't have to be at all super neat, just quick passes to rough it up and remove the oil finish without creating dips.

So far as black, I did this recently for our lounge trying the Osmo black and was extremely disappointed with it. Very blotchy effect that sort of sat on the surface. I ended up doing my old method of an iron acetate solution (0000 grade steel wool dissolved in vinegar) to react with the tannins in the timber.

As I really wanted a rich jet black, I got some Quebracho powder (natural powder derived from the bark of the Quebracho tree) and brushed a few coats of that on before doing the iron acetate. The result is stunning. You could also get some good quality Indian Ink, a lot of people use that. The attached pic is of the inside of our front window, and after approx 8-9 months there's absolutely no degrading of the richness of the black. I'm not too far from you so if you feel like a trip to Richmond one day I'm happy to give you a bag of Quebracho to test with.

 

[BarrySumpter]

Thanks heaps for the verbose reply and the offer.

I'll run this by the boss.
And see if she doesn't mind me having another go at staining.

Someone did mention that I can't stain the Osmo top oil for counter tops.  And suggestion was to remove the Top Oil before trying to stain again.

Thanks again and much appreciated.

 

[Packard]

A couple of notes.

1.  Formica sponsors a couple of blogs and they are interesting reading:
https://www.google.com/search?q=formica blog&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

2.  They are making some very convincing metallics lately.  I believe they are using real metal foil under their protective phenolic coating.  I think they would be good for back splashes.

And finally, back when I was in college 1966 they were remodeling the school bookstore.  The installer did not use a router at all.  He glued down the Formica, and cut it close to the edge by scoring several times with an utility knife and then snapping it off. He then used a (probably) 12” metal file (probably bastard cut) and using long strokes that addressed the edges at an approximately 30 degree angle, he trimmed it until flush.

Normally this is of no interest to us.  But if you are laminating with the counter already in place, the router (even a palm router) will only get you within about 2 to 3 inches of any wall.  Then you can resort to the score & file method for the last bit.  Make a practice piece first.  The skill comes quickly. The action has the file not going directly up and down., but having it at a skewed angle to the length of the counter. 

Also note that there are grades of Formica that will not leave a black line at the edge.  It is much more appealing in my opinion.

Post forming, an attractive option, is for new construction only and requires special equipment. There are companies that will order post formed countertops in any Formica pattern. 

Here is an example of a post formed Formica top:

 

[Crazyraceguy]

There is also the option of PVC for the front edge. This simplifies things quite a bit.
That beveled edge in the picture above, is also quite easy, assuming that it is available in the color she chooses. Making it yourself is rather complicated.
The post-form edge is not a retro-fit, new construction only.
Wooden edges are usually done, by attaching it before the laminate goes on, routing the profile after.
This can complicate the job on an already installed top.
Personally, I would not laminate over a solid wood countertop. Even though it is sealed from above by the laminate, the bottom will still breathe. Depending upon where you are in the world, this may be a problem. The more movement there is, the more potential for failure of some sort. The contact cement will stretch to some degree, but...

 

[Packard]

I put oil-based poly (Minwax, gloss) down on my maple countertops about 10 years ago. It is due for a re-coat.  I will scuff the surface and wipe on a couple of additional coats.

I’ve clear coated oil base over black synthetic milk paint (General Finishes).  This is actually a modern acrylic, and is rated for interior and exterior application.  Using a foam brush per their video, I ended up with zero visible brush strokes.  This is the best paint I have found for hand brushing.  But the finish scuffs easily, so a clear top coat was required.

I am going to try Minwax’s ebony polyshades over the black paint to see if it gives better depth or color.

Note, semi-gloss did not work well over black paint.  It made the black look gray.  Better is to add an extra coat of clear and wet sand with either 400, 600 or 1200 grit tho degloss the finish.

Note:  I waited 7 days before using the surface lightly and a full month before using it without caution to allow a full cure.

 

[BarrySumpter]

Wow Gents!

Thanks to all for making this so much easier than have to spend hours n hours on collecting data. 

Then more time to review.