Again... 55 or 75

[GreenGA]

I know this has been covered before but I thought of a new twist.

I have a couple of projects coming up (~120 feet of wainscotting, coffered ceiling in dining room, ~100 feet of crown molding, trim out three rooms, retread the stairs, etc...) and I think I could really use the Festool TS55 or TS75; along with the MFT 1080.

I am not loaded, though I will spend money to get great tools to compensate for my lack of skills, this purchase it being funded by my auto restore funds  :-\ ...  Seeing as how the difference in cost between the 55 and the 75 is not much over 100 bucks, other than the weight of the 75 over the 55, would there be any other reason I should not go for the 75?

Inquiring minds want to know.  ???

 

[Lou Miller]

There are only minor reasons. The 75 costs more, the blades cost more for it, its heavier, it takes up more space on the rail, and its a little more likely to trip a breaker (I've only tripped a breaker a few times on tough cuts while the saw and vac were running). None of them are really deal breakers though. If you have the need for the larger cutting depth of the 75, get it. I've had a 55 in daily use for the better part of two years now and I've yet to wish for more capacity. You know your needs better than anyone though. Do you really "need" more than 1-15/16" cutting depth? In reality, that's what it really comes down to. If you're not going to use the extra cutting depth, than its basically a waste.

 

[Daviddubya]

I'll second Lou.  I have used the ATF55 and now the TS55 for several years.  Other than the added depth of cut, I would see no reason to use the bigger TS75.

 

[rjfarel]

How come no one ever says "If you don't plan on making many cuts deeper than 50cm, get the TS55"?

Is it more complicated than that?

 

[Lou Miller]

How come no one ever says "If you don't plan on making many cuts deeper than 50cm, get the TS55"?

Is it more complicated than that?

Even though it was worded differently (and inches used instead of cm), didn't I basically say just that?

Do you really "need" more than 1-15/16" cutting depth? In reality, that's what it really comes down to. If you're not going to use the extra cutting depth, than its basically a waste.

 

[Charles Wilson]

I bought the TS 75 and have no regrets.  

I had the opportunity to get the 55 or the 75 and went with the 75 for a couple of reasons.

1) I do not plan on getting a tablesaw ever.  I thought that if the situation arises, I may need the extra depth of cut.

2) I own a rental and a home.  If I needed to trim a shick door, no problem.

3) Weight is not an issue with me.  I have been using the PC 325.  Converted to the TS 75 and the weights of the two saws are comparable.  At 34 years old, I figure that I can lug around the extra weight.

4) I had heard that the DC was a little better.  I have been sawing 3/4" red cedar pickets (about 80 or so in pretty quick order) (took some pics).  Connected to the CT 33 vac and very, very, very little dust on the driveway and 1080.

5) I wanted the extra power.  Just in case.

That being said, haven't flipped any breakers yet but with the vac I think that I am pretty darn close.

Hope this helps.  Feel free to ask if you have any questions.  I was in your shoes a month ago.

Chuck

 

[vkumar]

How come no one ever says "If you don't plan on making many cuts deeper than 50cm, get the TS55"?

Is it more complicated than that?

No it is not more complicated than that except it is 50mm not 50cm !

 

[Lou Miller]

That being said, haven't flipped any breakers yet but with the vac I think that I am pretty darn close.

Most likely, you won't trip any breakers. Only reason I have is that I work on older homes (some are 300+ years old, I know that's young by European standards) and the electric isn't always up to par. I've made thousands and thousands of cuts, yet have only tripped a breaker a few times. The most recent time was because I was too lazy to change blades and was ripping a 1-3/4" solid core door with the 48 tooth blade. I easily had the saw maxed out at 10 amps. With the vac running, and probably something else running on that 15 amp circuit too, the breaker tripped. In a shop setting, I doubt you'll ever see a trip. 

 

[Tinker]

"3) Weight is not an issue with me.  I have been using the PC 325.  Converted to the TS 75 and the weights of the two saws are comparable.  At 34 years old, I figure that I can lug around the extra weight." Quote from Chuck Wilson.

Sure was a factor for me.  And I'm only 39.  Been that for 38 yrs now, so i should know :

To the original poster: I did not notice any of the applications you listed as needing the larger saw.  Of course the is always the possibility.  If i run into the need for the larger saw, I have several methods.
1  I flip the piece over and resaw from oposite side
2  If only a little shy of full depth, it is sometimes just as quick to fiish the cut with my Japanese pull saw.  it has very thin kerf.
3  I sometimes use the bandsaw.  Especially if I am sawing deeper than the two cuts with ATF 55 can accomplish.  I make one cut with ATF and finsh with BS.  OR, I just go to the BS and then smooth the face with hand plane or bench planer.

All of above are easier for me than lifting and settling that 75 more than only once or twice.

Now, if I could only figure a way to put two 55's to work cutting top and bottom at same time>>>>>  oops!  i think Festool has figured it out for me  Isn't there a MCS (not sure of the correct lettering) where the saw can be mounted under the table?  : ;D

Tinker

 

[The Dude]

I'll second Lou.  I have used the ATF55 and now the TS55 for several years.  Other than the added depth of cut, I would see no reason to use the bigger TS75.

I'll second David who seconds Lou!  Spend the extra dough on some accessories; rail clamps, extra splinter guards, perhaps an 8oo rail.

Timmy C

 

[Eli]

Isn't there a MCS (not sure of the correct lettering) where the saw can be mounted under the table?  : ;D

CMS. NAINA ;D
We'll send you a picture!

 

[lynnsr]

I started with the 75, had it for some time and it was a great saw. However I have not used it for the extra depth once.....

I purchased the 55 and will never use the 75 again. If you are cutting on and off for 1 hour or 5 hours,
the difference in the weight and the balance is dramatic. 
Making a cut and setting it aside, picking it up and making a new cut............................

I sold the 75 on Ebay for my purchase price.

Love Festools

LFM

 

[GreenGA]

Thank you all for the advice.  While reading the comments the 55 made perfect sense in my situation.  I especially liked the advice to spent the "extra" money on other toys, er.... tools.  Yeah, that's the ticket.  :

While on the subject of the 55, I have another, newbie type, question.  If it belongs elsewhere, please let me know.

How easy/difficult would it be to edge-join some 3/4" hardwood plywood?

I ask because I could save a bunch of money if I could use 3/4" plywood to built my wainscoting "panels" instead of standard 1-by poplar stock.  Since all of the plywood edges will be covered by molding of some kind, they are not a concern.  Since they will be visible, it's only the joined edges that I would need to deal with.

I have already removed the bottom 36" of sheetrock from the walls in preparation for replacing it with 1/2" plywood to use as the backing.  Once I determine the appropriate panel layout, if need be, I will add an additional stud or two for nailing the edges of the 1/2" plywood panels.  These "edges" will be located/hidden behind the stiles of the 3/4" panels I will install on the walls so there is no need to deal with them.

Does this make sense to everyone, anyone, someone?

Thanks.

 

[Dan Clark]

Like almost everyone else, I second the TS55. 

When I purchased my TS55, my primary reason for getting it was NOT to cut sheet goods or thinner material.  I was cross-cutting and ripping 18' 2X12 joists for a sistering project.  And that doesn't include the hundreds of cuts on 2X4's, 2X6's, 2X8's and 2X10's.  And some of the joists were 18' 1-3/4" thick Microllam beams (very tough to cut).   I wanted the bigger saw and took the TS55 only because the TS75 wasn't available then. And I bet most people here would agree that the TS75 would have been a better choice for my needs. 

But the TS55 was a great little trouper.   It stood up to this abuse and cut all of it!    NO problems!    And then, when cutting 3/4" and 3/8" subfloor (what most people cut) it was wonderful to use.   It was easy to make dead accurate cuts for the entire floor.   

Like a lot of Americans, my tendency is to get the biggest and best.   Festool is the best (IMO), but I now realize that "biggest" isn't necessarily needed.   

Ask yourself this question, "How many times will I use the extra cutting depth and power of the TS75?"  IMO, if you are not ROUTINELY cutting 8/4 material, the TS55 is the better choice.

Regards,

Dan.

 

[semenza]

Thank you all for the advice.  While reading the comments the 55 made perfect sense in my situation.  I especially liked the advice to spent the "extra" money on other toys, er.... tools.  Yeah, that's the ticket.  :

While on the subject of the 55, I have another, newbie type, question.  If it belongs elsewhere, please let me know.

How easy/difficult would it be to edge-join some 3/4" hardwood plywood?

I ask because I could save a bunch of money if I could use 3/4" plywood to built my wainscoting "panels" instead of standard 1-by poplar stock.  Since all of the plywood edges will be covered by molding of some kind, they are not a concern.  Since they will be visible, it's only the joined edges that I would need to deal with.

I have already removed the bottom 36" of sheetrock from the walls in preparation for replacing it with 1/2" plywood to use as the backing.  Once I determine the appropriate panel layout, if need be, I will add an additional stud or two for nailing the edges of the 1/2" plywood panels.  These "edges" will be located/hidden behind the stiles of the 3/4" panels I will install on the walls so there is no need to deal with them.

Does this make sense to everyone, anyone, someone?

Thanks.

Hi,

    Maybe I am not picture this right but- If the edges are nalied/screwed to studs and then covered by "stiles" or molding strips , why do they need to be joined?

Seth

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      One other consideration in the TS55 vs TS75 decision is that the cover plate accessory is not available for the 75. Though  the dust collection is great with out the CP it is even better with it.  I don't think this would be an ultimate factor but if the DC is really important then it could be.  There is a review of the cover plate in the Tool Review section. 
      Also you can get an extra 5/16" depth when not using the rail. Not ideal but it may suffice for the once in a while over two inch cut. 
      I had one occasion in about five years of use that I would have liked ( not needed) the 75 over the 55. I was cutting a nearly 2" thick sheets of the following.  3/4" plywood - 1/2" particle board -  3/4" plywood layered and glued together.  Thanks to undersized plywood the TS55 on rail came within 1/64" of getting all the way through so I just finished it with a knife. But the extra power of the 75 would have been good. I needed smooth finish cut edges so was using the fine blade. This was a bit of a challenge and did cause the TS55s protection circiutry to kick in and shut it down.  After letting the saw cool off I did the rest.
       

Seth
       
     

 

[GreenGA]

Maybe I am not picture this right but- If the edges are nalied/screwed to studs and then covered by "stiles" or molding strips , why do they need to be joined?

Seth
............

I knew I would not be able to explain myself clearly.

The edges that are nailed/screwed to the studs are on the 1/2" plywood base I installed in place of the 1/2" sheetrock which I removed.

The "stiles" of the 3/4" panel "piece" will cover those.  It's the edges of the 3/4" panels that I will mount on the face of the 1/2" plywood that I need help with.

Most wainscoting that is installed now-a-days, is nothing more than some trim pieces that are cut, mitered and then nailed to the sheetrock.  The framed boxes that result satisfy most people, but not me.  I want to build a more traditional wainscoting panel which normally consists of the sub panel, i.e. 1/2" sheetrock or 1/2" plywood, and then a "frame" is built on top of the sub panel.  Normally this frame of rails and stiles is built from 1-by stock and then trimmed with baseboard and cap and chair rail with supporting trim.  The inside the panels
is trimmed.
.....

I need to find something online that I can supply a link to for people to see what I mean.  It's my lack of carpentry skills and experience which is preventing me from describing this in terms that others probably know intimately,

Here is something crude which may better help explain what I am attempting do and the help I am asking for...  Remember, the edges of 1/2" plywood sub panel would be covered by one of the stiles.  It's the 3/4" plywood panels

                      Edge to cover  -------|
                                                    V
      1st 3/4" plywood panel                !   2nd 3/4" plywood panel
==========================================================
==========================================================
             | |             | |             | |  !          | |
             | |  panel    | |   panel   | |  !panel   | | etc...
             | |             | |             | |  !          | |
==========================================================
==========================================================
Stile         ^              ^               ^               ^

Does any of this make sense?

Some may suggest that I get a book or two on installing wainscoting.  I have already done that; in fact I have three or mote books.  However, the books describe using 1-by stock for the rails and stiles.  I thought, perhaps, I could save money using 3/4" plywood panels instead because all of the edges, save the edges where the plywood panels meet each other, will be covered by trim.

Am I being to cheap?   ???

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I also recommend the TS 55.  But don't forget Festool's 30 day return policy so you can try the TS 75 if you want.

Re your panel and frame construction, I don't understand why you expect to have exposed joints.  Why isn't your system designed so the joints will fall only under the vertical (stile) members?

Also, will your intended replacement of the underlying drywall with 1/2" plywood meet the building code in your area?  To my limited knowledge, most require at least 1/2" of drywall to help slow the spreading of any from a room into a wall and hence into other parts of the building.

Dave R.

 

[GreenGA]

I also recommend the TS 55.  But don't forget Festool's 30 day return policy so you can try the TS 75 if you want.

Re your panel and frame construction, I don't understand why you expect to have exposed joints.  Why isn't your system designed so the joints will fall only under the vertical (stile) members?

Also, will your intended replacement of the underlying drywall with 1/2" plywood meet the building code in your area?  To my limited knowledge, most require at least 1/2" of drywall to help slow the spreading of any from a room into a wall and hence into other parts of the building.

Dave R
-------------------
I keep forgetting about their 30-day return policy...  I'll keep it in mind.

About the panel and frame.  The exposed joints between the 3/4" panel cannot be hidden.  Since plywood is only 96" in length, once I rip the 4x8 panels into, say, 30" x 96", I could have two 30" x 96" panels, laid on their sides, to attach to the studs through the 1/2 plywood panels underneath.  Did I explain this properly.

Now, about the building code...  I need to check on that.  That is not something I had thought about!  If that's code 'round these parts (South Jersey), then I need to reinstall the removed sheetrock and rethink my approach!   Ah..., the trials, tribulations and learning experiences of a newbie.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

The TS55 wants to tip over when making a 45 degree bevel cut on the guiderail, and you need to be sure to hold the base plate down on the rail as you cut. I'd imagine that the TS75, being taller and heavier, would be even more of a handful to keep it upright, and must be rather unweildy when fully canted over.

Forrest