Again... 55 or 75

[semenza]

Hi,

      On these panels.  Are the stiles going to be on top of the 3/4" plywood?  If so forget about using the full 96" and just cut the 3/4" plywood panels to lengths that will make the joints fall under the stiles.  Pre plan the joint locations so that you can add extra studs at  the joints. Then you don't need the 1/2" plywood underneath and can put the sheet rock back to comply with code.  I also don't see why you couldn't use 1/2"" or even 1/4" plywood for the panels and save  money and reduce the weight hanging on the wall. 

Seth

 

[GreenGA]

..re On these panels.  Are the stiles going to be on top of the 3/4" plywood?  If so forget about using the full 96" and just cut the 3/4" plywood panels to lengths that will make the joints fall under the stiles.  Pre plan the joint locations so that you can add extra studs at  the joints. Then you don't need the 1/2" plywood underneath and can put the sheet rock back to comply with code.  I also don't see why you couldn't use 1/2"" or even 1/4" plywood for the panels and save  money and reduce the weight hanging on the wall. 

Seth
----

I see now that when I first asked this question, I provided information that was not relevant to the question.  Can I start over, by ignoring the 1/2" plywood sub-panel?

Here is a link to the type of wainscoting I want to install. http://www.wainscotinglongisland.com/wall_panels.html

If you look at the image, the top and base/bottom rails, along with the stiles were what I was thinking of using the 3/4" plywood for.  Since the rails and stiles are normally, in this instance, paint grade poplar, and all of the plywood edging would be covered, I thought why not try to replace the 1-by with 3/4" ply.  The only problem, for this newbie, was can one butt joint two pieces of hardwood-grade 3/4" plywood so the butt is not visible.

Does this make sense?

 

[Eli]

Yes. You could use ply instead of poplar if you want to.
To bring the thread back on topic, you could do this project with the TS55, you don't need the TS75.

 

[GreenGA]

..re Yes. You could use ply instead of poplar if you want to.
To bring the thread back on topic, you could do this project with the TS55, you don't need the TS7

...

Allow me to detour a moment...

Is there a trick to concealing the edges of the butt-jointed 3/4" plywood?

Back on topic.

Most responders to my query agree with you on the 55 instead of the 75.  In that light, yesterday I sent an email to Bob asking what else I should get, tools and/or accessories, along with the 55/180 combination.  I'm waiting for his reply now.

It's like black-ice out here and nothing to hold onto to keep from falling...  ;D

Thanks, to everyone!

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      In the diagram  in the link you provided to the wianscoting it shows the molding pieces covering the plywood edges.  Are you planning not to use molding?  Or are you looking for a way to cover/hide the seam at the joint between the plywood parts?  The seam at the joint between the butt jointed plywood will not be any different than if it were solid wood butt jointed.

                    Especially if using the Fine blade on the saw. You will get really smooth , sharp , straight edges.    Hope that helps.

Seth

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Are you intending to apply your waincoting on the walls of a stairway?  If you are, you might might to purchase the angle gauge (which many on FOG hate because its angle setting is not that rigid and others on FOG like after "fixing" it by inserting a couple of metal washers).  The angle gauge might help you to cut the plywood and panels to the correct angles.  Of course, you could simply use rise and run numbers with a traditional carpenter's framing square, just as is done when laying out the supporting members for a staircase.

Norm Abrams on his "New Yankee Workshop" show on PBS has done a program specifically on installing beadboard and frame and panel effects on walls, around windows and a fireplace.  He used MDF for the panels and much of the trim since it was going to be painted white.  He made several of the moldings himself using a router table.

Dave R.

Dave R.

 

[GreenGA]

..re    In the diagram  in the link you provided to the wainscoting it shows the molding pieces covering the plywood edges.  Are you planning not to use molding?  Or are you looking for a way to cover/hide the seam at the joint between the plywood parts?  The seam at the joint between the butt jointed plywood will not be any different than if it were solid wood butt jointed.

                    Especially if using the Fine blade on the saw. You will get really smooth , sharp , straight edges.    Hope that helps.

Seth

------------------

What do you by "the molding pieces covering the plywood edges"...?

As for the Fine Blade...  Is this the blade that comes with the 55, or an extra cost item?

 

[Dave Ronyak]

The "fine blade" comes with the TS 55.

Dave R.

 

[GreenGA]

..re  Are you intending to apply your wainscoting on the walls of a stairway?  If you are, you might might to purchase the angle gauge (which many on FOG hate because its angle setting is not that rigid and others on FOG like after "fixing" it by inserting a couple of metal washers).  The angle gauge might help you to cut the plywood and panels to the correct angles.  Of course, you could simply use rise and run numbers with a traditional carpenter's framing square, just as is done when laying out the supporting members for a staircase.

Norm Abrams on his "New Yankee Workshop" show on PBS has done a program specifically on installing bead board and frame and panel effects on walls, around windows and a fireplace.  He used MDF for the panels and much of the trim since it was going to be painted white.  He made several of the moldings himself using a router table.

Dave

-----------------------

As a matter of fact, I am going up the stairs with the wainscoting.  As for an angle gauge, I already have the Bosch DWM40LK digital miter finder kit/gauge.  Would that work as well?

I had thought of using MDF, but the dust, oh the dust.  Of course, that was before I discovered Festool.

And, I do not have a router table...

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I would think any angle gauge could be used, including a simple manually adjustable "bevel gauge."  If I was to tackle a project like yours, I would use my framing square because that is what I own.  The Festool gauge has the advantage of being designed as a part of their system - to work with their guide rails, but there is no reason why you cannot us another angle gauge to help position a Festool guide rail at whatever angle you want.

Here's a tip you might consider - make your own large (3 ft arms) angle gauge by simply joining a pair of boards with a bolt and wing nut (washers on both sides.  Set one arm on your stairs (or in place stringers or baseboard) and then set the other arm vertical and lock them in place.  Then use that set gauge to make your layout on the pieces you want to cut.  6 years ago I hired an Amish crew to build an extra bay onto my existing garage, they used such a homemade gauge to get the angle of the rafters and trusses on the new section to closely match those of the existing hip roof.  One crew member held the gauge at about 75 ft away from the house and another crew member sighted from behind the first until they were lined up.  These experienced carpenters did much better at matching everything to the existing construction than the architect whom I earlier hired had done (and he had a good reputation and >20 years experience). 

Dave R.

 

[GreenGA]

That is an interesting suggestion.

Whatever method I use, I need to make up my mind in the coming weeks.  Once the I install the new hardwood floors and finish the wainscotting in the dining room and downstairs hall, the stairs are next.  Not only am I installing the wainscotting on the stair wall, I intend to replace the railings and treads.