Alternative to an MFT/3 table; Bench for Festool/power tools; any suggestions?

V

vesbon

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Nov 19, 2009
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So I recently picked up a TS 75 and a CT 22 vacuum and it basically blew my tool budget for a while.  Not that I regret it, it's just Festool stuff is pricey (but well worth it!).  I really wanted to get an MFT/3 table, but I can't afford it at this point in time.  I'm just a hobbiest, so getting Festool stuff past the wife is challenging to say the least.  With the aforementioned Festool purchase, I've bought about $2k in tools over the past 6 months, and I need to start working on some promised projects for my wife (built in closet, small credenza in kitchen).  Before I start cutting wood, I need a workbench.  Over the past year, I've been working on the floor or these cheap plastic sawhorses I have.

I need something better.  Since I'm a relative newcommer to woodworking, I need a bench that's pretty easy to build.  I've done some research; both online and I read most of Chris Schwarz's excellent book (Workbenches: From Design and Theory to Construction). 

I liked his "English Bench" design: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Rules_for_Workbenches/
and http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/CommentView,guid,1e56890f-a012-4bcd-9a7f-5d01168406f5.aspx

However, I'm mostly a power tool guy, so Schwarz's English bench may be overkill for me.

The best I came up with was Josh Finn's design from Fine Woodworking #202: http://www.finewoodworking.com/Proje....aspx?id=31729

I thought it was pretty cool, then a FOG member Russ came up with a modified "MFT-style" design:  http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=7067.0

Very nice.  However, the one thing is I will be cutting a good amount of 16" (or more) wide pieces of wood for shelves and cabinets, and I'll need something that mimics the guide rail and protractor thing of the MFT/3. 

Is there a way to incorporate that part of the MFT/3 into either Chris Schwarz's "English Bench" or Josh Finn's (modified by Russ's) design?  Or will I just have to use a carpenter's square to lay out my cuts and it's not that big of a deal? 

Anyone else have any suggestions for a home-built MFT/3 table? 

Thanks,
Greg
 
Just an idea, since I know what you mean about the wife-monitored budget...  I have been admonished lately for the Festool fever which has overtaken me.  I claim amnesia, with regards to all the little grey boxes suddenly in my workshop.    [embarassed]

Anyway, build a solid base, out of anything.  Build it out of something cheap, to 'practice' if you will.  Then top it with a purchased surface.  This will give you a workbench, in short order, and for little cost.
You could use 2x lumber for the base, or something more substantial.  I made my base earlier this year out of maple (soft and curly, by happy coincidence) that I had picked up for $2/bf and 2.5" thick.  Not perfect, but turned out great for my semi-serious use.  A workbench top, if it isn't manmade, is *the* trick for workbench making.  You kind of need *a* workbench, to build a workbench.  [unsure]

Anyway, there are a lot of plans for various workbenches, but I based my simple plan on this:  http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18011&filter=workbench%20base  sketching up measurements I needed to maximize basement space and the 36" x 84" door slab that tops it.
I made the ends and legs permanent (e.g. glued together) with mortise and tenon joints, but the rails are attached via cross dowels and bolts.  Super easy to install and super strong and stiff (and you can tighten them if things do loosen up at all).  Also that makes it a knock-down base in case you ever move and want to transport it.

All told, even starting with thick rough lumber, you could build that base in a weekend or so. 

As far as the tops go, there are a lot of options that are economical as well as effective in getting you started:
- Hollow core door (make sure it has torsion-box type internals).  These can be found very inexpensively and are very sturdy for the price.
- Solid core door-- Especially a commercial grade door.  I got such a beast from my SIL's firm when they replaced some doors.  Darn thing weighs about 100 pounds.  Solid!  This is my current workbench top.
- Purchased 'butcher block' type thing.  You can get these at Rockler, but if you have a Home Depot nearby they sell decent sized red-oak slab for well less than $100.  I cut these in half to make smaller work-station tables (for portable/bench top tools).

You can drill your own dog holes, if you feel they're a necessity, a jig and drill guide are all it takes.  Mount a vise, and move onto to a few wifey projects. 

Later, once more practiced, spend the time and money to build an heirloom workbench.
 
You can also build a base and then order a replacement MFT top.  You will then get used to the geometry and uses of the tops, as well as prepare you for the future.  If you think that is a possibility, you can then use some of the jigs and ideas on the Forum.  If you order an MFT/3 top, then you'll have a spare when you eventually get your MFT.  Nothing to throw away - selling point to the significant other.

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
You can also build a base and then order a replacement MFT top.  You will then get used to the geometry and uses of the tops, as well as prepare you for the future.  If you think that is a possibility, you can then use some of the jigs and ideas on the Forum.  If you order an MFT/3 top, then you'll have a spare when you eventually get your MFT.  Nothing to throw away - selling point to the significant other.

Peter
Click to expand...

or you just could buy the rest of the parts.
 
If someone was to make a bench and drill their own holes in the top to imitate the MFT, care must be given to pay attention to the thickness of the top.  If it is too thick you can't use the clamps through the holes.

Peter
 
I am surprised that no one else has mentioned them yet, but Qwas Products has just the products you are looking for.  Take a look at the Rail Dogs and Fence Dogs. 
 
I agree with Peter.  It is easy to make holes in a top surface for clamping, but much harder to get them precise enough to use for assembly( pressing into a reference corner) or cutting right angles ( i.e. qwas bench dog rails).

I think that Steve Jones Cutting Table is maybe more what you are looking for.  IMO if you have the space this is a more useful cutting table than the MFT.

 
While clamping to the top and squaring off stops can be handy, I find the grid holes as much of an annoyance as they are a shop aid. I would have a hard time counting all the little parts that I've had to pick up of the floor because they fell through the holes in the table. Seems to me the grid could be spaced twice as far apart with little change in performance.
 
If they changed the spacing of the holes then they would have to redesign and sell us more of these.

[attachimg=#]
 
Peter Halle said:
If they changed the spacing of the holes then they would have to redesign and sell us more of these.

[attachimg=#]
Click to expand...

"Those" are just this side of worthless.  They'll keep something from moving, but to say they're clamps is a stretch.
 
jeffinsgf said:
"Those" are just this side of worthless.  They'll keep something from moving...
Click to expand...

Keeping something from moving whilst I sand it or Domino it is exactly what I want!

...but to say they're clamps is a stretch.
Click to expand...

Hmm. Maybe that's why they don't call them clamps, but "Clamping Elements"?

As you can maybe tell, I love them.

Forrest
 
jeffinsgf said:
"Those" are just this side of worthless.  They'll keep something from moving, but to say they're clamps is a stretch.
Click to expand...

They may be worthless, but the only piece of festool gear I use more than the clamping elements is the MFT.  Feel free to send me any clamping elements you don't want, as I often wish I had a second pair.

Fred
 
jeffinsgf said:
Peter Halle said:
If they changed the spacing of the holes then they would have to redesign and sell us more of these.

[attachimg=#]
Click to expand...

"Those" are just this side of worthless.  They'll keep something from moving, but to say they're clamps is a stretch.
Click to expand...
If you have any extras please send them to me.   I can always use a spare set.

Dan.
 
jeffinsgf said:
While clamping to the top and squaring off stops can be handy, I find the grid holes as much of an annoyance as they are a shop aid. I would have a hard time counting all the little parts that I've had to pick up of the floor because they fell through the holes in the table. Seems to me the grid could be spaced twice as far apart with little change in performance.
Click to expand...

Maybe an interim solution to this would be to cut some pellets/plugs that friction fit from below so that they can be pushed out where and when required for clamps and such. My joinery bench has some holes drilled in it for bench dogs and each has a dog snuggled just below the surface to prevent 'losing' small things through them, mainly because once something is under the bench it seems to be lost forever [eek] ;D ;D
 
Thanks for the replies all.  I think I'll make the Josh Finn benches as an interim solution before I buy an MFT/3 (maybe they'll have a "4" by then).  The main thing those modular Finn-style benches lack is a good, quick way to make crosscuts with the Festool saw--which, unfortunately, is a big minus for me.  I was thinking maybe just make a rail along one edge, then lay the rail perpendicular that that.  Or something like that... I need to think more about it. 

Thanks again,
Greg
 
I don't need an alternative to a MFT/3 (I received one a week ago), but extra tabletop space. I plan to make a L-shaped workbench in the corner of the basement. I will fix it to the wall, so no problems with stability. Because I have no truck, I will use stuff that fits in a trunk or could stick out of a front-window. The short leg will be from 2 2'x4' sheets of 3/4" MDF (about 2.4m long) and the long leg will be of 2 more sheets (about 3m long). I will use the same height as the MFT/3. The supporting construction will be made of 2"x4" and sturdy screws and bolts, that will mean quite a few trips to the local timbershop.
There will be a metalworker vise at one end and one or two woodworker vises at the other leg, with dogholes. I have to prepare that corner first, a lot of old stuff found a restingplace there.
If I did not had a MFT now, I would have made a L-shaped workbench anyway.
 
Dan Clark said:
If you have any extras please send them to me.   I can always use a spare set.

Dan.
Click to expand...

Hey, guys, I did say "This side..."   [big grin]

I just wish they had a little more oomph.
 
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