Another reason why I LOVE my wife!

[Brice Burrell]

  Ryan, the boom arm allow you to manage the vac hose and power cord. Without the boom the hose can hang up, it can be a hassle. With the boom you can focus all of your attention on the work not managing the hose and cord. Like the MFT and vac, its used on every time you use your tools. To me it is worth the price and then some.

  Joining rails isn't very hard, but you do have to check to make sure they stay straight every few cuts. If you are going to cut a ton of 8' sheet goods it may well be worth investing in the long rail.

 

[Corwin]

... and if you elect for a long rail for 8' cuts, do get the 3000mm (118") rather than the 2700. 

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Last year, the Domino was at top of my list.  I had a lot of outgo buisiness wise and ended up getting the MFS 400 instead.  The Domino remained at top of my list.  Thru the winter, I found so many uses for that MFS 400 that before April 1, I will be sending for the MFS 700. Every time i find a new problem, that MFS seems ready for a solution. 

Tinker,

You should now be able to purchase a pair of 700mm extrusions separately if you wish. You can do that if you don't need a second set of 400mm extrusions.

Charles

You definitely can.  I recently bought a pair from "Uncle Bob".  I also obtained extra V-nuts, etc. from him.

Dave R.

 

[butzla]

  Ned beat me, but heres my thoughts along the same lines..

Ryan, if most of your work is finish sanding Id stay away from the Rotex sanders, I feel they are not the best choice, I much prefer the ETS150. Don't get me wrong the RO sanders can be used for finish work, there is however a learning curve to getting the best results. I like my RO125 but only for heavy duty stock removal and the rare times that I've used it to polish. If you want one of the best finish sanders money can buy took a look at the EST150 models. 

  Also take a close look at the boom arm and handle.

Brice and Ned, thanks!  I think I might go with the ETS 150/3.  The wisdom on this board is Priceless!  I've seen lots of people complement the boom arm and handle.  I must be missing something because I don't see the value.  Could someone tell me why they like it?  Also, I was considering joining two guides with the connectors like Ned suggested, but I'm a little afraid that it might be inaccurate over the total length.  Anyone have any feed back on joining rail, good or bad overall?
Many thanks,
Ryan

Dan Clark did a really good review on the boom arm.  http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=324.0  I just got mine.  It seemed like a lot of money but upon unpacking,  you find it's a quality rig.  Well worth the investment!

 

[ryan]

I was sure I was going to buy the OF1400.  I know it is one of the best overall routers and was afraid the 1010 would not be big enough.  Now I'm wondering...If I'm just going to use it primarily for edge routing, rabbeting, dadoes and hole drilling is the 1010 suitable enough?  Later I will get a 3HP router for a table (thinking Triton).  What do you guys think?  Bad idea?  I'm aware of the differences but I want to here form someone who regularly works with a 1010.  How do you use it most?

Thanks again and I hope everyone is having a happy Good Friday.

 

[semenza]

I was sure I was going to buy the OF1400.  I know it is one of the best overall routers and was afraid the 1010 would not be big enough.  Now I'm wondering...If I'm just going to use it primarily for edge routing, rabbeting, dadoes and hole drilling is the 1010 suitable enough?  Later I will get a 3HP router for a table (thinking Triton).  What do you guys think?  Bad idea?  I'm aware of the differences but I want to here form someone who regularly works with a 1010.  How do you use it most?

Thanks again and I hope everyone is having a happy Good Friday.

Hi,

      I don't have the OF1010, I would like to get one at some point. But am in no hurry as the OF1400 is hard to beat for an all purpose (except table) router.  It is larger and heavier than the 1010 but I have no trouble doing edge profiles with it. The ergonomics and smoothness make it very controllable.  There are reasons to get the 1010, but I think if you are starting out and need one router to do all the hand held stuff I really feel the 1400 is the way to go. Even the accessories  that are probably more suited to the 1010 can be fitted to the 1400.  I believe it has been said that the dust collection is better on it?  Also it takes a 1/2" collet as well as 1/4".  And the power is nice when doing dadoes , and wide/deep rabbets.  I really don't think you would go wrong with either one, I just think the 1400 is a bit more all purpose.
   

Seth

 

[dltflt]

I don't have either (future purchase) but I would get the OF1400 for the 1/2" collet.  The 1/2" shafts seem to make better cuts in my opinion.

 

[Dixon Peer]

I don't have either (future purchase) but I would get the OF1400 for the 1/2" collet.  The 1/2" shafts seem to make better cuts in my opinion.

Sure, the 1/2" bits will make better cuts; less vibration...more mass.

 

[poto]

I have the OF1010, and absolutely love it! I haven't found anything it can't do (I've done dovetails, edge roundovers, dadoes, rabbets, tenons, mortises, etc. etc.). I appreciate how light it is, but I've never had it bog down. The sole drawback I can see is that it doesn't take 1/2 inch shank bits. It will, however, take 8 mm bits, which Festool sells (as does Leigh, with their dovetail jigs). I couldn't live without it. Makes up for my lack of a table saw.

On another note, I recently bought the RO125, and used it for probably 5-6 hours over the last 2 days building a table. I love it. I had no problems with numbness in my hands, even after all these hours of using it. I have a similar Makita RO sander, and I can see I'll never use it again. What a tool this RO is! From hogging considerable amounts of cherry, to fine finishing, it's hard to beat. I find it fits my hand better than the RO150 (I have small hands). Yes, it's quite squirrely the first time you use it, but with a little practice you'll get the hang of it.

 

[Jerry Work]

Hi Don,

My experience is a bit different from the opinion you express.  I find shaft diameter is just one variable in determining cut quality for router bits.  Of far more importance is the grind and quality of the carbide and the balance of the bit.  Superior quality bits like those sold by Festool produce exceptional quality cuts whether in 8mm or 1/2" shanks for just these reasons.  Lessor quality bits like those flooding in from the far east under many different names produce far poorer quality cuts no matter what the shank diameter.  I now use mostly 8mm shank Festool router bits and have never broken one nor have I ever needed to resharpen one.  Cut quality remains exceptional seemingly no matter how much use the bits see.  Only a very few specialized 1/2" shank bits find their way out of the bit drawer these days.  Just my experience.

Jerry

I don't have either (future purchase) but I would get the OF1400 for the 1/2" collet.  The 1/2" shafts seem to make better cuts in my opinion.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

    I have been using mostly Freud bits. I have several of the same bit in both 1/4" and 1/2". The main differance I notice is not so much the cut quality but the router seems to run smoother and and feels like it is not working as hard with the 1/2" versions.

Seth

 

[Ned]

Hi,

    I have been using mostly Freud bits. I have several of the same bit in both 1/4" and 1/2". The main differance I notice is not so much the cut quality but the router seems to run smoother and and feels like it is not working as hard with the 1/2" versions.

Seth

OK, for identical edge quality and balance, a bigger shank is better.  I can buy that.

It seems to me that Jerry's point is that superior edge and balance trump a bigger shank.  And I do buy that.

Ned

 

[semenza]

Hi,

    I have been using mostly Freud bits. I have several of the same bit in both 1/4" and 1/2". The main differance I notice is not so much the cut quality but the router seems to run smoother and and feels like it is not working as hard with the 1/2" versions.

Seth

OK, for identical edge quality and balance, a bigger shank is better.  I can buy that.

It seems to me that Jerry's point is that superior edge and balance trump a bigger shank.  And I do buy that.

Ned

Hi,

    Yes, I agree. I think that both the quality and shank size make a difference. Definetly go for the quality first and then the 1/2" shank if you want. I have never tried the 8mm bits.

Seth

 

[ryan]

OK guys, it done! I called Bob this morning and placed my order.  This was hard and I started to get a little neurotic about until my wife said that if I didn't pull the trigger then she would .  Here is what I went with:

TS 55
OF 1400
Guide rail attachment for OF 1400
ETS 150/3
CT22
no Domino, but from McFeely's-
Kreg K3 pocket hole master system
Kreg pocket hole screw assortment in Festool systainer
McFeely's square drive assortment in Festool systainer
And lastly, the MFT/3 when it comes in. ;D

I'm still on the fence about some accessories (LR 32 sys, MFS 400, longer rails and the list never seems to end.)
I liked dealing with Bob,  It's like ordering from your friend.
Thank you so much for all the great advice and time you have all given to me.

Now I can really make a mess!

In friendship,
Ryan Koepp

 

[semenza]

Hi,

   Excellent set up Ryan!   Don't worry about the accessories or other stuff. Once you start using the tools and building things the decisions of what to add will become more apparent.   Just curious which abrasives did you get for the sander?

Seth

 

[Terp]

Hi,

    I have been using mostly Freud bits. I have several of the same bit in both 1/4" and 1/2". The main differance I notice is not so much the cut quality but the router seems to run smoother and and feels like it is not working as hard with the 1/2" versions.

Seth

Seth,
  The 8mm bit is about 3/8", so it falls in between a 1/4" & 1/2" shank for stoutness when under load.  Bosch routers were often sold with 8mm collets years ago.  My tool sharpener was always able to get these for me.  Any carbide tool supplier should be able to provide them.  Try www.carbide.com for some great selection & prices on the net. 

OK, for identical edge quality and balance, a bigger shank is better.  I can buy that.

It seems to me that Jerry's point is that superior edge and balance trump a bigger shank.  And I do buy that.

Ned

Hi,

    Yes, I agree. I think that both the quality and shank size make a difference. Definetly go for the quality first and then the 1/2" shank if you want. I have never tried the 8mm bits.

Seth

 

[Dixon Peer]

Hi,

    I have been using mostly Freud bits. I have several of the same bit in both 1/4" and 1/2". The main differance I notice is not so much the cut quality but the router seems to run smoother and and feels like it is not working as hard with the 1/2" versions.

Seth

OK, for identical edge quality and balance, a bigger shank is better.  I can buy that.

It seems to me that Jerry's point is that superior edge and balance trump a bigger shank.  And I do buy that.

Ned

When comparing the router bits you should keep all variables except shank diameter equal or you are not making a fair comparison of just the shank difference.

 

[dltflt]

Hi Jerry,
I've never used the Festool bits because I'm new to the festool family.  I guess when I made the change to 1/2" shanks I had also changed to CMT bits which I believe are a qaulity bit.  So I guess I will have to try some of the 8mm from Festool when I get my router.
Thanks for knoledge, I have so much to learn.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Hi,

    I have been using mostly Freud bits. I have several of the same bit in both 1/4" and 1/2". The main differance I notice is not so much the cut quality but the router seems to run smoother and and feels like it is not working as hard with the 1/2" versions.

Seth

OK, for identical edge quality and balance, a bigger shank is better.  I can buy that.

It seems to me that Jerry's point is that superior edge and balance trump a bigger shank.  And I do buy that.

Ned

I'll let Jerry speak for himself, and correct, me, too, if needed.  Because stiffness - resistance to bending - of the shank is proportional to the cubed power of the diameter, moving up from 1/4 inch (about 6.25 mm) to 8 mm produces a bit that is about 2X as resistant to bending forces.  Of course, moving up to 1/2 inch produces a bending resistance that is nearly 4 times that of an 8 mm bit.  Precision in manufacture also produces more even loading of the cutting edges which also reduces vibration and improves cut quality.  I have noticed in some lower quality bits (and molding cutters and saw blades) that build up of residue even after short use is not even, which means the cutting edges are not doing equal work.

Dave R.